Horrible Fuel Mileage

4runjunkie

New member
Hey guys,

I am hoping the gurus can give me some advice on possible issues to track down that might be causing my horrible gas mileage. I am currently getting about 4km/L, which equals about 8 mpg. I have no stored CEL codes. It has been getting poor gas mileage, not great power output, and slow throttle response since I bought it a year ago (i knew coming in that it was 3vze so I wasnt expecting spectacular mpg's, but this is a little insane). Since then, I have replaced the timing belt, wires, plugs, alternator, water pump, thermostat, dist cap and rotor, and the o2 sensor.

I have read a bunch of threads on these kind of issues, but all of the ones that talk about fuel mileage that is this bad are usually getting a code that gives them an idea of where to start. I know it could be caused by a lot of things, so here is my list so far of things to look into:

-Check Compression
-Check Timing
-Replace Fuel Filter
-Check AFM (All pins within spec when resting. Will take the afm out on the weekend so I can move the vane and check the resistances when the vane is open)
-Check Fuel pressure
-Check Fuel Injectors to see if they are leaking
-Check cold start injector (Seems ok. Resistance is dead on for spec, and no leaking when the fuel pump is on)
-Check CSI time switch sensor (Resistance within spec for warm engine)
-Check ECT (Resistance within spec for estimated engine temp)
-Check to see if the cat is clogged
-Replace exhaust since it is currently very rusted and definitely has some leaks in it
-Check that new O2 sensor is working properly (Resistance between B+ and HT pins measured at 7.0 ohms. According to the fsm that is a little high, but the engine was still warm so I am hoping that when it cools down to the 20 degrees that the fsm asks for, it will fall back into spec)
-Check EGR system (Both tests that I could find for the EGR system have good results: Checked EGR vacuum modulator by plugging ports P and R and blowing into Q, the air flow was as good as expected with such a tiny diameter tube; EGR diaphram checked by applying vacuum to the line that runs into the top of the valve while the engine was running, with vacuum applied the engine wants to stall out)
-Check fan clutch This may be the cause of my issues. The fan starts up as soon as your turn the car on, even if the car is cold. The fan is also hard to spin when the engine is off and cold. I am going to replace this soon and hopefully that will get a bunch more mpg's out of this engine.

My question for you is, is there anything specific you can think of that would cause this bad of gas mileage? Anywhere I should specifically start on that list? Could the leaking exhaust cause that much of a significant drop in mileage? and finally, is there any reason I am not getting a code considering how much fuel is being dumped in with minimal power output?

Thanks for any help you can offer :frog:
 
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winter time below 0F temps with warm ups i get around 10 kicking around on the highway i get around 17 i expect it will get better when it warms up.
 
It rarely hits below freezing where I live, and it has been like this for approx a year so I have decided that temp isnt a factor here.
 
Your list of things to check is pretty good; I would go forward with it.

There could be other culprits. Your motor could be "tired" from high miles or a life of constant abuse. Do you drive like a bat out of hell? Do you drive constant stop/go traffic? Uphills everywhere? Do you deliver pizzas with it?

Also, do you have an auto or manual trans? Have you gone to a bigger tire size without compensating the axle ratios? Are your hubs locked in 24/7?

I don't expect more that 13 city out of a 3.0L, and they've never been very good on fuel. But 8 is definitely unacceptable, especially for a daily driver. My friend had a Jeep Wrangler with a 4.0 on 36" tires with 5.29's, and even that got just above 10mpg.
 
Here are a few I've dealt with over the years on our 1990 4runner(V6):
1) fuel system components(ie pump, regulator, FI o-rings/housing seals, cap)
comment: ethanol is killing these trucks, we're changing over to the non-ethanol petrol
2) torque setting on front wheel bearings
3) O2 sensor
4) timing
5) bad fan clutch
6) coolant temp sensor
7) tire pressure(and types of tires)
As other have said , the winter will drop the mpg. We are seeing about 11-12 mpg city and we are just across the water from you. Don't kid yourself, the winters here will have an effect. When they get off winter gas and the temps go up, we see 15-16mpg city.
regards
 
Do you drive like a bat out of hell? Do you drive constant stop/go traffic? Uphills everywhere? Do you deliver pizzas with it?

Also, do you have an auto or manual trans? Have you gone to a bigger tire size without compensating the axle ratios? Are your hubs locked in 24/7?

Not really. I used to drive a little sports sedan so I found myself driving a little more aggressively than I do now, but honestly I dont think its possible to drive this vehicle like a bat out of hell, it doesnt have the power to accelerate like that haha

It is a manaul trans, with the stock 31 tires and the stock auto hubs
 
Here are a few I've dealt with over the years on our 1990 4runner(V6):
1) fuel system components(ie pump, regulator, FI o-rings/housing seals, cap)
comment: ethanol is killing these trucks, we're changing over to the non-ethanol petrol
2) torque setting on front wheel bearings
3) O2 sensor
4) timing
5) bad fan clutch
6) coolant temp sensor
7) tire pressure(and types of tires)

Bad fan clutch is a great thing to check. I gotta wait for the truck to cool down and then i will go check out how much resistance the clutch is giving.

Thanks :)
 
UPDATED:

-Check Compression
-Check Timing
-Replace Fuel Filter
-Check AFM (All pins within spec when resting. Will take the afm out on the weekend so I can move the vane and check the resistances when the vane is open)
-Check Fuel pressure
-Check Fuel Injectors to see if they are leaking
-Check cold start injector (Seems ok. Resistance is dead on for spec, and no leaking when the fuel pump is on)
-Check CSI time switch sensor (Resistance within spec for warm engine)
-Check ECT (Resistance within spec for estimated engine temp)
-Check to see if the cat is clogged
-Replace exhaust since it is currently very rusted and definitely has some leaks in it
-Check that new O2 sensor is working properly (Resistance between B+ and HT pins measured at 7.0 ohms. According to the fsm that is a little high, but the engine was still warm so I am hoping that when it cools down to the 20 degrees that the fsm asks for, it will fall back into spec)
-Check EGR system (Both tests that I could find for the EGR system have good results: Checked EGR vacuum modulator by plugging ports P and R and blowing into Q, the air flow was as good as expected with such a tiny diameter tube; EGR diaphram checked by applying vacuum to the line that runs into the top of the valve while the engine was running, with vacuum applied the engine wants to stall out)
-Check fan clutch This may be the cause of my issues. The fan starts up as soon as your turn the car on, even if the car is cold. The fan is also hard to spin when the engine is off and cold. I am going to replace this soon and hopefully that will get a bunch more mpg's out of this engine.

Waiting on tools for some of the other tests, and money for replacing the exhaust
 
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I think one of my problems may be the fan clutch. If I am current, the way to test it is while the engine is off and cold, try and spin the fan. If it is working properly, there will be minimal resistance, and if it is not working well then it will not spin freely? Can someone confirm that for me? I couldnt find anything about it in the fsm.

If that is correct, then my fan clutch is definitely not working properly. With a cold engine, it is still hard to spin. When you start the car the fan start blowing air immediately, even if it is a cold engine.
 
Hi, I'm new and have been lurking and learning. I recently found this thread on a different toyota page, but it's still about the 3vze. It looks like you hit most of the points in this thread, but maybe there's something else in there you might could check too.

I actually have seen that thread a couple times while google searching for answers haha, but thanks anyway for letting me know about it :)
 
Most people think its crazy but have you ever checked your cat? I.know I had same issue, no power and bad mileage so I went through the ringer. Turned out it was my cat and an afs. May not be the case but it cleared mine up
 
Most people think its crazy but have you ever checked your cat? I.know I had same issue, no power and bad mileage so I went through the ringer. Turned out it was my cat and an afs. May not be the case but it cleared mine up

Yup that one is definitely on my list of things to do. The only problem is that I know that I will basically need to replace everything past the O2 sensor as soon as I want to check the cat, so I have been holding off until I have the money to do so.

Thanks for the tip though
 
Yup that one is definitely on my list of things to do. The only problem is that I know that I will basically need to replace everything past the O2 sensor as soon as I want to check the cat, so I have been holding off until I have the money to do so.

Thanks for the tip though

Be happy that this stuff is a lot cheaper than post-OBDII stuff. :D
 

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