how deep can you go??

T

TC2002SE

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hey guys this may sound like a dumb question but here it goes! Im going on a little wheeling trip this weekend that runs a creek bed for about 15 miles with many crossings. I have wheeled this spot for years in my lifted jeep where I would get in spots nearly up to my headlights and wouldn't think twice. Now, obviously I am not going to be that stupid in the 4runner but since I have not wheeled the t4r around water since I bought her I was wondering if you guys knew how high the breathers were as far as transmission and rear end breathers if any. I am planning on staying away from anything deeper than half way over the tires. Just thought I would throw this question out there. BTW I have an 02 sport stock with 265/75s

Thanks
 
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Front diff comes up to the top of the tires under the brake booster area attached to the fender well. The rear diff comes up to the bottom of the cab. You can look at both of the vent lines with ease.

But you should be fine staying around the center wheel mark.
 
The occasional water crossing to your headlights should be fine. Extending the rear breather should be done to help things in the back end. The front diff breather can be found under the hood just under the break booster.

Here is me crossing some water last year:Red River Crossing
 
Up to the center caps is safe. You can install a snorkel but that won't save your interior if the water gets deep enough. If you must cross deep water you can tow a small rowboat.
 
You can go through water that's over the headlights, but the key is for how long. I did this, but it wasn't intentional. In and out quick. (And this is before I had a snorkel)
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If you stop with anything above the wheels, you better be ready to get screwed.

The "bow wave" effect has a LOT to do with water intake.

Usually, if you keep moving FORWARD, you're ok with BRIEF water to the headlights.

You stop, you're f*cked.

You've got breathers everywhere. Transmission, transfer case, front diff, and rear axle.

If you get water in the trans, you're ****ed. Pink milkshake.

Water in the gear oil won't kill you right away, but you need to change it out ASAP.

The body isn't "water-proof". There are holes all under the carpet that allow water in if you stop, and the seals aren't that great either.
 
Anyone have any tips on how to seal around the air box door that's used to access the air filter? I don't think toyota sells that thin foam gasket that seals the access door and mine doesn't look anywhere near waterproof.
 
Look into the rear diff breather mod... Will give you some piece of mind for the rear diff. I've done water crossings up to the bottom of the body... That's my own limit, as I don't feel like pulling the carpet.... Seems like a pain!
 
Sealing the air filter replacement door is not gonna help anything, the piping in the fender is lower. A little splash in the air box is not gonna kill you. I "accidentally" sank my entire front end attempting a crossing through a big hole on a trail. Immediately backed out! Water was up to the windshield for a few seconds and this is the reason I built my snorkel. I had run that trail so many times before and knew the depth of all the holes. But you can never tell if someone else has recently destroyed the trail under water. My front dipped in at an expected 'over the tire" depth, then the rear followed, good to go and NOPE, front did a second drop, probably another foot or more. Got out with no issues and the air filter was completely soaked. Engine didn't skip a beat.

It'd take a lot to get the interior completely sealed. Possible but not feasable unless you're trying to float it.

Extend the breathers... I ran the front diff and transmission up to the cowl, the rear is popped through by the gas cap.

If you constantly find yourself questioning the depth of the crossing and fear hydrolocking the engine, just get a snorkel. Or build one yourself.
 
4eigner said:
Anyone have any tips on how to seal around the air box door that's used to access the air filter? I don't think toyota sells that thin foam gasket that seals the access door and mine doesn't look anywhere near waterproof.
Click to expand...

In addition to the intake being lower then the intake door flap, there is one small hole at the bottom of the air box. My guess is that it's there to drain the random splash that made it in. If you plan on using your 4runner as a boat, I'd seal that 'drain' hole up and get a snorkle.

As a side note, I'm impressed by this board in not making any off colour comments about the title. All I've had in my head since I saw the title is "that's what she said", I'm glad that we are all above that.
 
Diesel_Dog said:
In addition to the intake being lower then the intake door flap, there is one small hole at the bottom of the air box. My guess is that it's there to drain the random splash that made it in. If you plan on using your 4runner as a boat, I'd seal that 'drain' hole up and get a snorkle.

As a side note, I'm impressed by this board in not making any off colour comments about the title. All I've had in my head since I saw the title is "that's what she said", I'm glad that we are all above that.
Click to expand...

Actually, I've counted 3 small holes on the bottom of the box: one on driver side and one on the passenger side, as well as the one you speak of near the center. Those issues are already resolved. I'm trying to seal the door.
 
I don't have my airbox in front of me right now but depending on the lip setup, it may be able to be sealed with a bead of caulking. It worked on my "cheap cooler mod". Lay a bead down with the door open and let it cure. Then when you close the door on it, you should have a good seal.

That being said, I'd feel safe dumping a full 5 gal bucket of water over that little door with no seal. The amount of water that will enter the box won't have any effect besides a couple wet spots on the filter. If you get into the situation where that door needs to be water tight then you must have the trolling motor already. Just sayin
 
Jon said:
I don't have my airbox in front of me right now but depending on the lip setup, it may be able to be sealed with a bead of caulking. It worked on my "cheap cooler mod". Lay a bead down with the door open and let it cure. Then when you close the door on it, you should have a good seal.

That being said, I'd feel safe dumping a full 5 gal bucket of water over that little door with no seal. The amount of water that will enter the box won't have any effect besides a couple wet spots on the filter. If you get into the situation where that door needs to be water tight then you must have the trolling motor already. Just sayin
Click to expand...


The caulking idea came to mind, but wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas.
Not familiar with the trolling motor. Though, water submersion is quite different than pouring water.
 
4eigner said:
Not familiar with the trolling motor.
Click to expand...


It was a smart ass comment.....

A trolling motor is used on a small boat for fishing.

If you're serious about this, PM me your number and we can talk it over.

If your not, them take the advice that's been given, and leave it at that.

There have been cars built in the past that were both boat and car. Get one of those identity like playing in deep water.
 
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