Rear lower control arm replacement

[vonhughes]

I'm going to replace the lower control arms on the rear of my 2002 SR5, and have a (maybe dumb) question.

When doing work on the back of the truck, I usually put the jack stands on either side of the pumpkin as the Toyota diagram shows.

Since the LCA manufacturer's video shows the guy putting a ratchet strap on the axle housing to pull it forward so the rear bushing of the LCA is aligned to its mounting point, I am wondering:

Will the fact the rear is supported on jack stands rather than on a lift obviate the need to pull the axle housing forward with a ratchet strap?

OR

Will the vehicle's weight shift when I disconnect the first LCA and potentially cause the jackstand(s) to become unstable? I do have a nice, level concrete garage floor to work on, fwiw.

In Timmy's video, it looks like he had his stands on the "north-south" frame rails, just forward of the rear wheel well, but I could not tell exactly where they were.

I want to do this safely and don't see an "approved" rear support location other than the axle housing for the jack stands on the Toyota diagrams I've found. When I yanked out the air suspension on my GX470, I don't recall removing the LCAs but I also can't find a photo to remind me where the jack stands were to keep me honest. (I'm assuming they were on either side of the pumpkin...)

Thanks for any experience with rear LCAs you are able to share!

 

[mtbtim]

I'm Timmy the Toolman. Support the rear of the vehicle with 6 ton jack stands on each frame rail, and also have a hydraulic jack under the pumpkin of the differential. This will enable you to safely support the rear of the vehicle and also allow you to manipulate the rear axle to remove and reinstall the rear control arms.

 

[evansc]

I agree, Put the stands under the frame, and throw the jack under the rear axle, then you will be able to manipulate it.

 

[phattyduck]

I agree, Put the stands under the frame, and throw the jack under the rear axle, then you will be able to manipulate it.

Just make sure they are tall and wide (6-ton, like Timmy said), not the normal car-sized ones.

Speaking of which, I wonder if anyone makes high load capacity but short jack stands for all these new heavy sedans...

-Charlie

 

[JWaldz]

Addition to all the above, just work on each side separately. Don't disconnect both sides at the same time. Remove and install one side, then go to the other side.
It will likely still move a little, but at least this way it won't go too far.

Great question though!

 

[JohnMc]

Addition to all the above, just work on each side separately. Don't disconnect both sides at the same time. Remove and install one side, then go to the other side.
It will likely still move a little, but at least this way it won't go too far.

Great question though!

Exactly what I was going to say. Even with no weight on the axle, it can move around with some force with more than one control arm off.

 

[3bears]

Addition to all the above, just work on each side separately. Don't disconnect both sides at the same time. Remove and install one side, then go to the other side.
It will likely still move a little, but at least this way it won't go too far.

Great question though!

agree, are you just doing the lowers or the uppers too. I need to do all mine.

 

[vonhughes]

OK, I *finally* got all my pieces parts (two new LCAs and a "direct fit" muffler) from Rock Auto AND will have the time this weekend to get started!

For the past five days, I've been hitting all the fasteners with PB Blaster, at least once a day. There is really zero rust on the LCAs, but the flange at the front where it connects to the last cat looks a little rough. She's got 232,000 miles on her, mostly in the Midwest, but she also spent three years with my son in Tahoe and western Wyoming.

I pulled her in the garage tonight and I've got about three feet on each side, with the rear aimed at the garage door. I pulled in far enough that I can work with the door open, even if it rains hard.

My only concern is how far forward to put the jack on the frame on the driver's side. It's a no brainer on the passenger side - I'm going to put it just forward of the mounting point for the LCA - but on the driver side, at the same location, the cover under the gas tank overlaps the inner part of the frame and I'm worried about the vehicle not settling properly on the stand.

Am I just being a worry wart or is it OK to support the driver side of the frame further towards the front of the vehicle to avoid that possible interference?

Thanks for any input. I am hoping to take some photos and/or video of progress showing a "standard" muffler replacement, since most of the other videos I have seen have been for "sic mod" type mufflers.

 

[GhostRing]

Am I just lucky, or is it from the minor (2") lift?
I never use jacks to remove any of my rear control arms - (maybe the panhard.)
I do chock the rear wheels to prevent any potential movement, but I don't seem to
have binding or major re-alignment issues with an arm - factory, Rokmen, or Opt.
Occasionally a ratchet strap or spud wrench comes into play, but one-at-a-time
removal service is pretty painless on level ground.

 

[vonhughes]

Am I just lucky, or is it from the minor (2") lift?
I never use jacks to remove any of my rear control arms - (maybe the panhard.)
I do chock the rear wheels to prevent any potential movement, but I don't seem to
have binding or major re-alignment issues with an arm - factory, Rokmen, or Opt.
Occasionally a ratchet strap or spud wrench comes into play, but one-at-a-time
removal service is pretty painless on level ground.

I considered that, but I am also replacing my muffler, so I figure it will be easier to do while the wheel and LCA on the passenger side is off.

 

[Zhehan]

Drop the spare tire for the exhaust work if you are replacing the tailpipe section.

 

[phattyduck]

Drop the spare tire for the exhaust work if you are replacing the tailpipe section.

I drop the spare for basically ANY work back there - suspension too.

If you want to try doing the arms with the wheels 'on the ground' - just put the rear tires up on some cribbing or a ramp. I made a set of solid wood ramps from some extra 2x12 and 4x12 from a construction project that fits under most/all of my cars and lifts everything up 5". For the 4Runner, that's enough for most work underneath. For the lowered cars, that's enough to easily get a jack under there.

Good quality, large jack stands will also be fine on the frame in front of the lower control arm brackets. The truck will tip back level-ish, but the engine is up front holding things down...

-Charlie

 

[vonhughes]

Great minds think alike, that tire is already in the corner with the bikes and power washer!

I also have an idea, maybe controversial. Rather than messing with the ratchet strap, I was going to put an additional jack under the side of the axle I am working on.

Not sure how that could make things better or worse than applying the strap to it, but it sounds like a good idea to me.

Thoughts?

 

[phattyduck]

Great minds think alike, that tire is already in the corner with the bikes and power washer!

I also have an idea, maybe controversial. Rather than messing with the ratchet strap, I was going to put an additional jack under the side of the axle I am working on.

Not sure how that could make things better or worse than applying the strap to it, but it sounds like a good idea to me.

Thoughts?

Put the jack under the middle of the axle (diff/pumpkin). Jacking it off center will move the holes FARTHER apart that you are trying to fit a bolt in...

-Charlie

 

[vonhughes]

OK fellas, I'm going in when I finish lunch.

Will report back later!

 

[HiluxSurf SSR-G]

I agree, Put the stands under the frame, and throw the jack under the rear axle, then you will be able to manipulate it.

This is what I do when replacing the rear UCAs and LCAs