How do my tires look?

Yeah, they'll continue to look about the same, right up until the tread separates from the casing, and if at highway speed at that moment, you'll likely lose control. Especially in a vehicle which has a high center of gravity, like our 4Runner's.

If you're lucky, the partially detached tread will just beat the crap out of your truck, requiring extensive body repair. If not, you might roll the truck and you and others in the vehicle might die. Maybe some other innocent motorists that have the misfortune of being near your neglected truck when it happens, will get caught up in your wreck, too.

Are there other neglected vehicles on the road? absolutely. Do you want to be one of those?

I've seen the affects of old, dry-rotted tires failing lots of times. Back when I worked on consumer cars for a living. The really tragic ones were the ones a Policeman friend showed me. Those were ones where people died, due to old tires that failed, and sent the vehicle out of control.

If you don't believe me, maybe you'll believe this video:

<iframe width="640" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/LRGQZU5S5-4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Good luck.
 
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I rotated my tires today and started noticing the cracking in the rubber. There is a distinct crack around the whole circumference of the tire, where the tread meets the sidewall. The place where it bends the most when it rolls I guess. :lmao:

How bad do they look? Or not bad at all? :pray:

If you have to ask, chances are really good that you already know the answer.
 
They look very used and bad. Those have no tread either. Forget the cracking. Replace those puppy's.
 
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They look very used and bad. Those have no year either.

They have a year stamp, I'm just not disclosing it to not bias anyone's visual assesment.

If I told you they are 5 years old they'd look different to you if I said they are 20 years old. :nod:

They are actually not that old, many official recommendations "suggest" to replace after 10 years regardless of tread depth. In that case they are still not expired.
 
They have a year stamp, I'm just not disclosing it to not bias anyone's visual assesment.

If I told you they are 5 years old they'd look different to you if I said they are 20 years old. :nod:

They are actually not that old, many official recommendations "suggest" to replace after 10 years regardless of tread depth. In that case they are still not expired.

Damn, i must have been tired when I posted this morning. I edited. I really meant to say no tread left even if measured it says some is left. IMO they need replaced. Most likely you will be fine. Im not saying they are going to kill you but I would not want to use those in ice or snow.

Yes your right officials recommend that. Did you know tires can sit 10+ years in a warehouse before sold. They dont expire, dont worry about that. Visual inspection is best way to tell if tire is bad. If they look like crap, like your tires then replace them.
 
Definitely replace them. I had some michelins that dried out after 6 years from infrequent use and sun exposure. They only had about 15k on them and looked new but the oils evaporate and the rubber goes bad. I noticed they started squealing occasionally and put off replacing until later, then it started getting cold and they completely lost grip on an mild icy patch that would normally be no problem, and nearly caused me to have an accident.
 
They have a year stamp, I'm just not disclosing it to not bias anyone's visual assesment.

If I told you they are 5 years old they'd look different to you if I said they are 20 years old. :nod:

They are actually not that old, many official recommendations "suggest" to replace after 10 years regardless of tread depth. In that case they are still not expired.

This thread seems like you just wanted to argue with some people online, especially since you are keeping "private" the year stamp. You asked for opinions, yet you already have made up your mind that you are going to continue driving on the tires.
 
This thread seems like you just wanted to argue with some people online, especially since you are keeping "private" the year stamp.

I can assure you that arguing isn't the goal here. :rolleyes:
It is a request to do a visual assesment, that is not biased by any outside factors, such as brand, age, etc...
 
It is a request to do a visual assesment, that is not biased by any outside factors, such as brand, age, etc...

The assessment is that they are dry-rotted, and are likely to fail sooner than later. How "old" they are is irrelevant at this point.

I've seen tires that were only about a year old that were prematurely aged due to improper inflation and/or loading. They were dried out too, and failed looking about like your tires.

Racing tires are an extreme example that can be reduced to uselessness in very short order. One pass down a drag strip is sometimes enough to damage a tire beyond usefulness. A handful of laps on a Roadracing track can do the same.


The point is that once a tire has reached the deterioration point yours have, regardless of how "old" they may be, they are going to fail sooner than later. They are also not providing anywhere near the traction they did, when they weren't dry-rotted.
 
I've seen tread age like that between the blocks. If you don't drive on ice and need the cold weather grip, aren't taking corners like an sti with pirelli's, and aren't speeding down the interstate like the General Lee, I'd imagine they will give you a couple more years of good use.

However, looking at the cracking on the sidewall by the tread, I would be paranoid. I once had two year old tires that should have been fine, a set of four on a mazda mpv. Even doing proper rotations, It developed a light shimmy that translated to the steering wheel. The noticeable effect was minimal, and the van still tracked true. Then one day I had tread separation occur at 70 mph. Four and a half feet of rubber were still attached to my front passenger tire at 70mph, and it destroyed so much on the van... I was lucky, I only lost the fender liner, my radio antenna, turn signal... and all the gallons of fluid coming out from under the car was only washer fluid. I was about 50 miles from home.

All that to say, most tires will show clear signs that warn you before failure happens. Yeah, I think my one tire had a manufacturing defect and was a fluke, but if I'd paid more attention to the little signs leading to it, I would have prevented a potentially catastrophic accident. I think you'd be fine driving on those tires, yes. Just pay close attention. Read the signs. Your tires will let you know when they've had enough.

Don't be cheap, just be wise.
 
- on another note, I just replace my spare tire under the runner because the original was full of dry rot. Looked a lot like your tire. :P
 
a lot of you are really paranoid..

I understand being safe, but don't be ridiculous.

I have seen tires look just like the OP's after only a few months. certain type of "tire dressing" will "ruin" them quickly. that doesn't mean the tire is BAD.

minor surface cracks are to be expected. if you can see cords down in the crack, then you have a problem. if you have obvious bulges in the tread or sidewall, also a problem.
 
a lot of you are really paranoid..

I understand being safe, but don't be ridiculous.

I have seen tires look just like the OP's after only a few months. certain type of "tire dressing" will "ruin" them quickly. that doesn't mean the tire is BAD.

minor surface cracks are to be expected. if you can see cords down in the crack, then you have a problem. if you have obvious bulges in the tread or sidewall, also a problem.

Ive never in my life seen tires that worn in jsut a few months.
 
They are not worn at all actually. 8/32 remaining from 13/32 original in 45k miles. And they handle as well as always. Plenty of traction in wet and frozen. That's what makes it difficult to throw them away. :(
 
I'm reminded why I don't reply to most of the threads I could answer, but choose not to. People that may not know any better, still want to argue. It becomes a waste of time.

I will say that I'm not an Engineer that designs tires. However as a former ASE Master Tech, I saw a lot of failed tires due to dry rot. Seeing a common recurring theme, I've sought to educate myself on tires.

In my hobby involving Motorcycle and Car LSR (Land Speed Racing) vehicles, tires are crucial. As such they are studied very carefully, and Engineers that DO design tires offer their insight. I've learned a LOT from in-depth discussions with them.

In Professional DragRacing, which I've been involved with for years, tires are again crucial. Again, the Engineers that design the tires are a wealth of information.

All of this knowledge from tires used in racing, albeit extreme-use conditions, is applicable to street vehicle tires.

They are not worn at all actually. 8/32 remaining from 13/32 original

In fact, they are almost half worn. You have used 5/32". Another 5/32" takes them down to 3/32". The wear bars are at 2/32". Tires won't pass a safety inspection if they are at the wear bars. Some places advise a minimum tread depth of 5/32", taking into account an area's weather.




OP, do as you wish. Arguing this is not worth the time.
 
What does drag racing or high performance have to do with this? :gun4:

The tires are rated to 118mph. There is obviously an engineering marging built in also. But at 118 mph centrifugal forces are 720g's. I drive at 55mph max, that's 156g's.

So the design is at 461% over my current usage. That's what I'm trying to get at. Advice how to test them or predict failure. Visually they are in perfect shape, no tread lifting anywhere. Some outside rubber cracking, sure. That's what happens to all rubber in the sun. Doesn't mean the link between the cords and tread inside is compromised.
 
What does drag racing or high performance have to do with this? :gun4:

You apparently missed this:

02SE said:
All of this knowledge from tires used in racing, albeit extreme-use conditions, is applicable to street vehicle tires.

Do you think the tire Engineers I mentioned, ONLY design or know about racing tires? Or myself for that matter? :rolleyes:

My point was that knowing about how tires are constructed, (both racing and street vehicle tires) is critical to my livelihood, and hobbies.

As I said, I'm reminded why I don't bother to answer most threads on here. People that don't know any better, still want to argue.

Your trolling is not worth my time.
 

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