how do you change the oil???

[nc211]

Dumb question of the week here....:bash:

But after not verifying the 30k was done, I went and bought all M1 oil, gear lube, and grease for driveshaft today. Also bought oem air filter, and a few oem oil filters, plus crush washers. Plus a couple cans of seafoam. Ran the seafoam in the crankcase "let it idle for 20 minutes", now it's sitting, dripping down into the pan. Looked underneath to get aquainted with the underside, and for the life of me, could not figure out how to change the oil on this thing? I'm use to removing the plastic undercarriage of the LS to get at everything, but this honcho has a metal undercarriage guard. I see the filter up front, can squeeze my hand in from the side, but it just doesn't feel right. I undid the front two bolts to the metal undercarriage, but it still feels as solid as before. I think I've located the drain plug "oval panel between the wheels that snaps out? But how do you get to the filter???

Man...talk about one tough som'Btch set-up! No wonder you guys love these things... Might as well stamp "US ARMY" on it.

Thanks fellas....

NC-Idiot patiently waiting for masterful instructions...

PS: I'm a horrible typer...just my thing...

 

[alpha]

What year and engine type?

 

[nc211]

My apologies....guess that might help huh? I need to set up my signature and such here...

It's a 2005, SR5 with the V8.

 

[Jeff Kleb]

The little oval-shaped plastic piece will snap out - try using a screwdriver - and then you'll see the oil pan bolt up in there. Basically, it is almost dead center in your skid plate (4x4 versions). You will find that it is very easy to reach, but you may need a deep socket depending upon the size of your hands and what type of ratchet you are using.


IMPORTANT: DO NOT drain the transmission fluid - as the bolt on the bottom could easily be mistaken for that of the oil pan!

The oil filter should be on top of the engine on the driver's side. This is extremely easy to reach, as I have changed mine myself several times. I'll attach a photo so you can see what I mean. Be sure that the rubber stopper is in place by the little 'drain pan' surrounding the filter - or you'll have a mess on your hands.

Good luck to you -- and know that you will be saving money and you'll have confidence that the job was done correctly.


:awais:

^^ -- Oil Filter Location on my 2005 4Runner SR5 -- ^^

^^ -- Closer View of Oil Filter & Drain Reservoir -- ^^

 

[nc211]

Jeff, thanks man! I've finished the rear differential, and as I suspected, it's never been changed. That stuff was blacker than midnight, with about an INCH of sludge crud stuck to the magnet. I'm moving my way up, now at the tranfer case.

One problem though with your approach...my oil filter is under the engine, on the driver's side, facing the wheel. I've got the 4.7 liter V8...not sure if that makes a difference?

Thanks everybody! I'm sort of charting new personal territory with the 4Runner. I can easily tell...EASILY tell that I'm going to love this car, truck, suv...yada yada yada.....:biggrin2:

 

[spyne]

My apologies....guess that might help huh? I need to set up my signature and such here...

It's a 2005, SR5 with the V8.

The pics Jeff Kleb posted are for a V6. You've found the filter on the V8 from the sound of your later post. The easiest way to replace it is to remove the front skid plate. There are two bolts in the front and two in the rear that need to be removed. The rear ones are recessed into a couple of rectangular holes in the plate. Then the plate will swing down and can be removed.

Yes, the drain plug is behind the oval plastic plug you found. I'm surprised the plastic plug was still there, they usually fall out and get lost fairly quickly.

 

[nc211]

Thanks Spyne. That's what I figured last night. I just started removing bolts from front to back, then the skid plate swung down, and the light came on in my head. It took me 5 hours to flush both differentials, transfer case, all 6 zerks, change oil & oil filter, and replaced the air filter. My sneeking suspesion was correct, those fluids were in serious need of replacing. I seafoamed the crank case before flushing the oil. The oil was new looking before seafoam, but it drained out super super black. Gonna do that again on the next oil change. The oil filter however, well, i think it had been on there for a bit. It was nearly siezed on! I had the toughest time getting it off, especially after I punctured it. But a large pair of channel locks, and several mm turns, it finally came off. The seat was caked with old burn oil, cleaned that up. At 2:00 am, I finally finished, dragged my worn out tail into the shower and went to bed. Just took her for a few spins around the area.....running much better! It's got some serious punch, and the tranny kick when pushing it to really go is gone. However, I do have that sulfur smell after opening up the throttle. Had all the windows and sunroof open, including the tailgate window, and I could easily smell it coming back into the car. Gonna have to research that.

I'm Mobile 1 full synthetic from stern to bow. 75W90 in the differentials and transfer case, Mobile 1 grease for the drive shaft, and 5w30 in the engine.

Next up? Seafoam the intake and new plugs. Possibly take dremel polisher-bit to the butterfly in the throttle body. Did this on the LS, and made a HUGE difference in idle and pickup.

 

[Road Warrior]

GOOD WORK!:girl: :rocker: :biggrin2: