Worst oil filter change ever!!!!

Calloway

New member
Hello everyone,

Since I have learned so much from everyone here though I might post my experience that may help someone else.

So I tried to remove my oil filter but nothing would work.

1. Tried my usual filter wrench. Didn't work.
2. Tried sandpaper in between the filter wrench and filter. Nope.
3. Tried claw type wrench. Nope. Just crushed the filter.
4. Tried screwdriver through the filter. Nada.
5. Filled 2 holes a filter cap removal tool and drilled 2 drywall screws through the top of the filter. Almost thought I had it but I ended up just ripping the center weld right off. (Needed a really extension since placement is so tight and went through wheel well).
6. Tried to gently tap a screwdriver and see if I could hammer it around. Nope. Was worried about damaging the block so I stopped.
7. Read online that googone would "melt" the gasket. Didn't do anything after multiple applications.
8. Read that a razor blade would help rip out the gasket. Tried that and don't think I got a razor deep enough to cut anything.

Finally I bought this Safe Jack Talon Oil Filter Removal tool. Little pricy but realized only way to get a grip on the holes inside the oil free to turn it. It had a few different width bolts so I changed out to the once that fit.

10 mins later the damn thing turned. What a nightmare!
 

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Couldn't attach pic from my phone for.sime reason. But here is the aftermath.
 

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Don't ya' just hate it when it is over tightened?

The one or two times mine has been (don't know my own hand strength I guess), I've had to take wheel off, then I have easy access with a wide mouth type pliers, still no fun.
 
Is this your first filter change? Cause who ever did the last is a moron. Just snug it and then give it a 1/4 turn or even less in some cases.
 
I put the new one on hand tight, tight as I can get it by hand with NO wrench. Wrench for removal only.
 
I hate doing oil changes on the 4Runner. Both my Honda's have the filter at the bottom which is much easier to service which I like. I've never had problems with my oil filter being too tight because I always snug it with my hand. The 3 claw universal oil filter tool has never let me down when removing them.
 
I put the new one on hand tight, tight as I can get it by hand with NO wrench. Wrench for removal only.
That's already too tight. It should not even be fully hand tight.

The procedure with OEM filters on Japanese vehicles is spin on until the gasket touches, then 2/3 to 3/4 of a turn more. You'll still be able to spin it about 1/4 more turn if you want - don't do it! Make sure the gasket/o-ring is lubed with a bit of oil.

-Charlie
 
In the fifty years that I’ve been changing my own oil, I’ve never had any kind of trouble removing an oil filter. I use a strap wrench to remove, just to make it a little easier, then smear a bit of oil on the new filter’s gasket and install hand tight. Never had one leak either.
 
I have heard of this before. From people just not oiling the gasket. As well as factory or others way over tightening the filter.

What type of oil filter was it?

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 
The oil filter sees very little pressure so it's incredibly rare for the filter to leak. I do about 1/4 turn as well after the gasket seats with block then there's no need for straps or tools or anything when it's time to replace it. If you tighten it down as much as possible by hand, get ready for another fight in 3-6 months time.
 
I am in minority here. I run it tight and then use the filter wrench (end cap type) to go 3/4 -1 turn. Never had an issue removing but I also coat the gasket with oil first. I go in thru the wheel well and remove the two piece rock guards to keep it tidy. I have a three foot extension for the filter wrench (Harbor Freight - couple of bucks). Been doing for years on my 2001. Convinced the oil on gasket must be the trick.
 
I HIGHLY recommend getting a 24-36 inch extension from Harbor Freight. Will save you a lot of headache trying to reach things like the oil filter. Damn near the best invention ever
 
I don't see it mentioned here; I remove the skid plates for oil change. Easier to get at the filter, and check out undercarriage. I also dip my finger in the drip pan to lube the oil filter gasket. HAND tighten. I may need filter strap on next oil change. I torque the drain plug. I've never used a crush washer.
DB
 
Is this your first filter change? Cause who ever did the last is a moron. Just snug it and then give it a 1/4 turn or even less in some cases.

This is jsut not true. I used an OEM filter, I put so much oil on the o-ring that it is running off, and I only hand tighten. And I had just come off a broken hand last time I changed the oil, so I could not have put it that tight.

I could not get it off last time, and my filter wrench doesn't fit for some reason, in fact, I'm pretty sure I got an AMAZON bootleg filter, gonna try again to get it off when I get back from vacation. I'm only at 5k on the filter, and 2500 miles on the oil, but I like to change it often after a hard wheeling trip.
 
It also helps having a decent oil filter wrench. Assenmacher makes a high quality cast aluminum cup style wrench which fits the factory Toyota filters very well. They aren't much more $$ than the cheapo stamped steel cup wrenches, which don't fit worth a $#%@.
 
This is jsut not true. I used an OEM filter, I put so much oil on the o-ring that it is running off, and I only hand tighten. And I had just come off a broken hand last time I changed the oil, so I could not have put it that tight.

I could not get it off last time, and my filter wrench doesn't fit for some reason, in fact, I'm pretty sure I got an AMAZON bootleg filter, gonna try again to get it off when I get back from vacation. I'm only at 5k on the filter, and 2500 miles on the oil, but I like to change it often after a hard wheeling trip.

Folks over tighten the filter often I've done that a couple of times my self.
Not sure why your filter won't come off but I ve changed the filter by hand from the top of the engine bay without any issues. I've used the Assenmacher Specialty Tools 3rd Gen filter wrench with a 1/4inch stubby flex head a few times. Don't use the the AST tool to tighten the filter.
 
Wrist curls will solve your too tight filter problems hit the gym more often. J/K

I'm in the camp of filter touches block + 1/4 turn maybe, been working for 50 yrs.
 
I don't see it mentioned here; I remove the skid plates for oil change. Easier to get at the filter, and check out undercarriage. I also dip my finger in the drip pan to lube the oil filter gasket. HAND tighten. I may need filter strap on next oil change. I torque the drain plug. I've never used a crush washer.
DB
Change out that drain plug for a Fumoto valve and use a form-a-funnel under the filter and you can do a tool-free (nearly - need to pop the clips on the fender splash panel) oil change.

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I do understand if you want to get under there for inspection though... But I have 30+ lbs of skidplates there. Not going to do that unless I have to.

-Charlie
 
I don't see it mentioned here; I remove the skid plates for oil change. Easier to get at the filter, and check out undercarriage. I also dip my finger in the drip pan to lube the oil filter gasket. HAND tighten. I may need filter strap on next oil change. I torque the drain plug. I've never used a crush washer.
DB

Do others keep the skid plates on? I suppose if one was doing only oil and not the filter it could be done but when I take my filter off it pours oil everywhere. If I kept the skid on that'd be a mess that'll drip out for days. I also can't reach the filter location with the CS144 alternator. I think it's easier from below anyway though and makes cleanup easier with a rag as I'm already down there.
 

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