How far have you pushed your stock tires?

I don’t consider 1298 miles on the OEM Grandteks pushing it. I would have kept them longer but since I have a Death Valley trip in mid-April, I wanted peace of mind and replaced them with All-Terrain E/10 load range tires.
 
Chiming in: my OEM tires lasted for about 500 miles (to get home from the out-of-state dealership). I sold them through Craigslist pretty easily so the net cost of swapping to good tires was quite reasonable.
 
I swapped mine out the day i picked up the Trail. As some people have pointed out, if you swap 'em out right away the credit on trading in your tires eases the pain, I got $100 a tire, so my net cost on five new Coopers was not too bad. One look at those Dunlops and you can see they are not taking you very far, small price to pay for safety and piece of mind.
 
I got a gravel puncture the next day from just driving on a gravel road with Duratracs. The rock was imbedded in the tread. I think the rubber compound is really soft which may help for the snowflake rating.

I then got two more rock punctures all within 30k miles. Two tires never made it past 30k because they were not repairable.

I'm having good luck and great traction with Treadwright Guard Dog tires with Kedge Grip.

As they say: "Your mileage may vary." Perhaps you have sharper rocks in your area? Most of what we deal with on our local trails is sandstone, which rounds off quickly. Or, those sharp rocks may have been wet when you drove over them. If so, not much you can do except buy stronger tires with 10-ply treads and 6-ply sidewalls.
 
The stock Dunlops will work fine until you save enough for the "right" tires...+

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Yes, they suck, but not as bad as you may think, they handled Elephant Hill in Utah without issue
 

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As they say: "Your mileage may vary." Perhaps you have sharper rocks in your area? Most of what we deal with on our local trails is sandstone, which rounds off quickly. Or, those sharp rocks may have been wet when you drove over them. If so, not much you can do except buy stronger tires with 10-ply treads and 6-ply sidewalls.

They were load range E I think - still, soft compound - and yes, it was raining earlier. The Duratracs are the only tires i've had flat problems with in 30+ years driving off road.
 
Yes, they suck, but not as bad as you may think, they handled Elephant Hill in Utah without issue

Elephant is a walk in the park compared to what it was 20+ years ago. Since then they have dropped in like 10 thousand bags of sac-crete :D

I devirginized my new 89' Toyota std delux on that trail :) Thanks for the pics! it brought back some memories ;)



I had my duelers through 2 heavy snows storms, while they did ok, I wasn't going to run a full winter on them. Went to Discount Tire and traded them in on some BFG TA KO's in stock size. I had 1200 miles on them and they gave me $70 a piece for them. Well they gave me $65 each and a $30 prepaid visa. If you want to deal with the hassle of Craigslist I know you could get more, apparently a pretty popular tire with the stock Ford F150 pickup crowd.

So much happier now, I am actually looking for a summer set too. Really liking those new TE rims :D
 
They were load range E I think - still, soft compound - and yes, it was raining earlier. The Duratracs are the only tires i've had flat problems with in 30+ years driving off road.

All I say say is "wow!" Mine are the load range C version, and if I have similar issues with punctures, they won't stay on our truck very long. So far (only two relatively short off-road adventures) I'm still happy with how the Duratracs performed. Time will tell.
 
I pushed my stocks about that far.

Simply slided off the road, picture was taken after I tried to pull out of it on my own - it's not like I tried to get closer to the trees on full speed : )

dec2010-stuck.jpg~original
 
Just under 46,000 miles on mine, replacing them tomorrow with Toyo Open Country AT II. Granted it's been mostly Atlanta streets / interstates with an occasional foray down dirt roads or farm trails. They did fine with a light foot in the ice we had this past winter.
 
Love the stock tires , will buy the same when they wear out , I have expensive non stud winter tires and steel rims for the winter , the stockers are light , smooth and quiet like no other for non winter driving seasons .

Gas millage drops as soon as you go to a LT/AT tire , if your on pavement 90 % of the time its not worth it IMO. Stick with the P rating
 
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almost 36,500 miles on dumflops before changing to P rated Cooper Discoverer A/T3s; what a difference! Thanks to 1 Engineer's tire evaluations and recommendations
 
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Well I ran my stock Dunlops for about 40 miles through snow and mud over the past 2 days. They looked like chocolate doughnuts after the first muddy secetion of trail but I was able to keep up with a Rubi and a well built Xterra on MTRs. The off camber snowy hills made things interesting but the Runner pulled through without a hitch (or a yank).
 

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Why? Because it is a "trail edition."

**THIS**

The Trail is pretty much a singularly unique body on frame rig with incredible electronic aides. Including, but not limited to the ability to dial in your terrain literally, and also negotiate down steep uneven hills while only having worry about steering.

So it comes stock with STREET tires?? Amazingly the tread pattern on the Bridgesones the Trail were even tighter than the Dunlops on my 4th Gen.
 
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So it comes stock with STREET tires?? That's not only cheap, it's cheap and dumb!

Which tires would you put on it? ATs, MTs, something else? And which ones specifically? The small percentage of TE owners who actually take theirs off road would probably replace whatever you put on there as the stock tires with their own personal preference - not to mention many of them also go to 285s. Then you'd also get the majority of TE owners who never take it off road complaining about the ride quality and road noise. These come with street tires because 99.99% of all test drives are on the street and probably 99% of them stay on the street after they're purchased - even Trail Editions.
 
Which tires would you put on it? ATs, MTs, something else? And which ones specifically? The small percentage of TE owners who actually take theirs off road would probably replace whatever you put on there as the stock tires with their own personal preference - not to mention many of them also go to 285s. Then you'd also get the majority of TE owners who never take it off road complaining about the ride quality and road noise. These come with street tires because 99.99% of all test drives are on the street and probably 99% of them stay on the street after they're purchased - even Trail Editions.

Intruder we're going to have to agree to disagree on 99% of Trail owners staying on the street. Then yes some people want 285's, but that's a red herring argument. The question is what standard sized tire, should come on a TE so the vehicle could at least be used as designed. Is that asking for so much? That tire would not be the Dunlop, and the Bridgestone off road is a joke. Moreover 285's can't really be used without altering the design of the vehicle, which is another discussion altogether.

What tire you ask...here's an idea. Allow buyers to choose from a plain vanilla AT, MT, or street tires they now come with. Isn't that a no-brainer for an ordered rig, and how different is that from having several different radio options? What's more important when you're negotiating through snow banks or on a beach with the tide rising. Your tires...or your radio? Yet a model designed to be an ultimate off road machine has multiple radio options, and ONE (very wrong) tire choice? For Trails sold off the lot virtually every dealer sells tires, and other manufacturers like Range Rover have several wheel choices in their brochures that are dealer installations.

In the end Toyota had a choice. Make a special model, but equip it with tires that are eventually going to fail if you use the vehicle as fully designed. Or like the Jeep install a tire that can allow the vehicle to operate as capable. If people want a different manufacturer, or look, or size, fine they can buy it. A Trail buyer should be able to drive off the lot and reasonably operate in a terrain and / or with driving characteristics the design engineers built in, and a significant percentage of buyers expect.
 
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