How fast does brake fluid go bad sitting in container?

Mark_BC

Senior Member
Last August I bled the brakes with new fluid and put the remaining fluid away in the original container with the top on. I heard online that you shouldn't keep it too long because it absorbs water from the air through the broken lid seal. But then I got to thinking, what about the brake and clutch reservoirs? They just have a goofy rubber cap that surely doesn't seal the moisture out so wouldn't your fluids in the car go bad?
 
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I cant say for sure, but I have never ever had an issue. I keep brake fluid, or any fluid, until its empty. Cap on, in the garage cupboard. I wouldnt worry about it.
 
Last August I bled the brakes with new fluid and put the remaining fluid away in the original container with the top on. I heard online that you shouldn't keep it too long because it absorbs water from the air through the broken lid seal.

I've heard the same thing and would always get rid of the unused fluid once the seal was already broken, which usually wasn't very much but...


But then I got to thinking, what about the brake and clutch reservoirs? They just have a goofy rubber cap that surely doesn't seal the moisture out so wouldn't your fluids in the car go bad?

Good point.
 
But then I got to thinking, what about the brake and clutch reservoirs? They just have a goofy rubber cap that surely doesn't seal the moisture out so wouldn't your fluids in the car go bad?

That's why most manufacturers suggest a fluid flush every two years or so regardless of mileage.
 
Last August I bled the brakes with new fluid and put the remaining fluid away in the original container with the top on. I heard online that you shouldn't keep it too long because it absorbs water from the air through the broken lid seal. But then I got to thinking, what about the brake and clutch reservoirs? They just have a goofy rubber cap that surely doesn't seal the moisture out so wouldn't your fluids in the car go bad?

Yea, it absolutely does absorb moisture and go bad. And the fact that the fluid does not circulate makes it worse. And that's why calipers ars always seizing up, all ths moisture collects at the caliper because it's a dead end.
 
Use Full Synthetic brake fluid instead...

This is why they make and we use Full Synthetic brake fluid, absorbs far less moisture and can sit on the shelf/vehicle longer. :cowboy:
 
The consequences of not spending a few bucks for a new bottle far outweigh the marginal cost of a fresh bottle.
 
What are the consequences of using year old brake fluid that has been stored with the cap on?

Potential for water in the lines compromising brake performance and increasing the odds of your brake lines rusting through.

That said, if it were just to top it up until you did it proper I'm sure you'd be fine.
 
I'm running full synthetic . When doing the TBU a month or so ago switched all lines to stainless and flushed the brake system and switched to synthetic. Less moisture if any attracted to synthetic, I will keep a open bottle around for top off, but next brake bleed will open a new one.
 
Last August I bled the brakes with new fluid and put the remaining fluid away in the original container with the top on. I heard online that you shouldn't keep it too long because it absorbs water from the air through the broken lid seal. But then I got to thinking, what about the brake and clutch reservoirs? They just have a goofy rubber cap that surely doesn't seal the moisture out so wouldn't your fluids in the car go bad?

That's why most manufacturers suggest a fluid flush every two years or so regardless of mileage.
seems this would be the answer.

it also depends on the size of the container. a pint bottle with just a tiny bit missing will last longer that a quart bottle that is half empty.
 
Yea, it absolutely does absorb moisture and go bad. And the fact that the fluid does not circulate makes it worse. And that's why calipers ars always seizing up, all ths moisture collects at the caliper because it's a dead end.

So does simply bleeding out at the bleeders on the dust shields clear the issue of water at the calipers? Seems pretty easy to do. Or do you need to do something else to get it all out down there?
 
In addition to corrosion issues (sticking calipers) brake fluid with moisture in it will also have a lowered boiling point. The older and wetter the fluid gets, the easier it is to boil. And if you heat the brakes up and boil the fluid, you don't have any braking in that circuit anymore.

DOT 5 fluid is synthetic/silicone fluid. Water does not mix with it. This is good in some respects, the fluid doesn't get saturated over time. But at the same time, any water that gets into the system will bead up and migrate to low spots in the system, where it might or might not flush out with a fluid change. It is BETTER at handling moisture, it's just worth noting that it does it differently, and not in a completely perfect manner.

DOT 5.1 is confusingly named, but it's basically 'super' DOT 4 fluid, it's compatible with DOT 4, no flush needed.

As for removing fluid by bleeding at the calipers/drums - you need to flush until clean fluid comes out. The moisture is dissolved in the normal style of fluid. You won't get droplets of water out, just old dirty (sometimes) looking fluid. Keep bleeding until the fresh clean fluid arrives at that end of the brake system. And, lol, don't run the reservoir dry doing it.
 
I have used two, three year old opened brake fluid before with no adverse results but I probably got lucky. I usually buy brake fluid in the small containers, thus not having much leftover fluid.

I have found that Castrol GTX works the best for me. Pricey as heck now.

I think all brake fluid now is synthetic but can't say for sure.
 

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