How many is too many miles for you

[rvadrummer317]

200k, what about 380k?

I have been pondering the same question with my 4runner. I have a 1997 with 386k right now, runs great..but I have just been debating if I should start messing with it. Interior is great..probably needs a cleaning. Power steering rack is getting replaced here this week. No rust holes on the frame but you def see the age.

Should I get a lower mileage one or continue to go forward? Although no rust on the frame I do have a rust hole on the little area under the door on a body panel but I think I can get that fixed up

 

[wc11]

No amount of miles is too much if the maintenance is done.

 

[StreetCreeper]

Far as I'm concerned, these are "forever" trucks. They're good enough to rebuild them no matter the miles. 20-30 years from now, you will still see folks with these trucks. They will be the future equivalent of a 60's 70's muscle car or old Jeep.

The two biggest killers of 3rd gens are rust and collision/rollovers in my opinion. These aren't like typical vehicles that you find sitting in a junkyard all pristine yet complete garbage aside for the parts. If you find one in a junkyard, its been wrecked or rusted to shit usually.

On my 97Ltd, I'll roll my odometer over 400k in less than a week. I'm planning on a new timing belt as a gift for her 400,000 mile day. I'm fully planning on making it over half million in a couple years.

"Knock on wood"...

 

[GrassFed]

It is good to also note that maintenance covers a broad spectrum of procedures. If you are in it for the long haul, maintenance goes well beyond your basic oil change. Sure, you could get away with only changing fluids etc. for a long time.

A big one that comes to mind is checking valve clearances at the very least at 200K. Sooner if you're serious about keeping your ride pristine. Amongst many others of course, this is just one big tip that would've saved my engine if the Previous owner would have checked it. Result burned exhaust valves.

Hope that helps a little.

Matt

 

[T4R2014]

OP asked that 5 years ago. If you're asking that question in the 3rd gen forum now, then you have no business in a 20 year old body-on-frame SUV.

 

[Suspect_U]

I'm in the market for a 3rd gen as well and the lowest mileage I have been able to find consistently is right around 200k. Here in SoCal, people are still getting $7500-$9500 for clean rigs with that mileage.

 

[PWD4R]

I think mileage depends on a ton of factors. I would but a 200k mile rig with full service history before a 100k mile one without any service history whatsoever. Also I would buy a 1 owner 200k rig before a 4 owner 100k rig. I would feel more comfortable in one that I had since new with 300k on it than a used one with 200k on it that I know nothing about. IMO, if properly maintained, these motors are one of the few that 50k miles is the same as 150k miles. I imagine the average life span of these for average maintenance is about 280-300k. If you get maintenance nazis then I could see 500k being obtainable.


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[etc.]

Mileage is not very important to me.

Many, if not most items will need to be replaced, whether it's 120k or 250k.

 

[jeremyc74]

The number of miles is limited by how much work you're willing to do to it.

If you're looking for something you can buy, and do nothing but change the fluids and tires on for 100k miles, you need to be looking at something with under 100k on the clock. By the time these trucks hit 200k they need a suspension overhaul and a full timing belt/water pump/radiator job at the very least. Even then you're going to start getting some random failures here and there (like alternators, starters, and power steering pumps) that will have to be done.

These are great trucks, and the drivetrain will absolutely run forever, but there's other stuff wrapped around it that eventually wears out.

Everyone keeps talking about "good maintenance" being the key, but that's misleading. There's nothing you can do to maintain shocks, struts, ball joints, steering bushings, etc. You don't maintain them, you replace them, and that takes time, money, tools and skills.

A 4Runner with 100k miles on it will very likely give you another 60-80k miles of completely trouble free driving no matter how it was maintained beforehand. After that it's still not likely to let you down for another 30-50k, but you're going to have to start dropping dollars and picking up wrenches to keep it in top shape. :flamewar:

 

[hour]

I got mine 3 years ago at 243k and I think I found comfort in a thread similar to this one. Plus, I just wanted a trail beater...

But certain things had gone ignored by PO, things I didn't even think of when I was trying to be informed and question the PO / inspect service records. Expect (without service records) damn near every bushing to be torn or pancaked, suspension components to be worn, steering rack issues, fluids to be long overdue for a change, sensors in need of replacement or cleaning, etc.

I'd probably set my cutoff at 120k like Brian. It's very possible that I could have gotten one at 120k and still needed to do everything to it that I've done to my current one, but I'd still feel better while towing or driving up in to the mountains/middle of no where if I had significantly less miles. And I probably wouldn't have found a boatload of fluid in my inner tie rod boots last week :smashputer:

Oh yea, if you smell burning oil when on a test drive, see smoke under the hood, or weeping from the valve cover seals - know that it's common, but also know that it's not particularly enjoyable to replace them and pretty expensive for what it is if done by a shop. Mine were cracked - so that resulted in her being covered by a tarp for a week and a half while I waited for some junkyard replacements - which arrived coated in half an inch of crappy silver spray paint hah

 

[PWD4R]

The number of miles is limited by how much work you're willing to do to it.



If you're looking for something you can buy, and do nothing but change the fluids and tires on for 100k miles, you need to be looking at something with under 100k on the clock. By the time these trucks hit 200k they need a suspension overhaul and a full timing belt/water pump/radiator job at the very least. Even then you're going to start getting some random failures here and there (like alternators, starters, and power steering pumps) that will have to be done.



These are great trucks, and the drivetrain will absolutely run forever, but there's other stuff wrapped around it that eventually wears out.



Everyone keeps talking about "good maintenance" being the key, but that's misleading. There's nothing you can do to maintain shocks, struts, ball joints, steering bushings, etc. You don't maintain them, you replace them, and that takes time, money, tools and skills.



A 4Runner with 100k miles on it will very likely give you another 60-80k miles of completely trouble free driving no matter how it was maintained beforehand. After that it's still not likely to let you down for another 30-50k, but you're going to have to start dropping dollars and picking up wrenches to keep it in top shape. :flamewar:

When I was stating good maintenance to me that includes replacing warn components not just fluid items. If you go 100k without replacing your air filter or oil filter then that's not good maintenance even though an air filter isn't fluid related. Maintenance definitely includes replacing warn parts.


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[Mados]

I got my 99 with 228k on the clock 2 years ago. Paid $6k and it had been serviced by the dealer for the first 200k. It was well maintained, but I've still spent another $5k before getting to the really fun mods. And timing belt and valve cover gaskets are still in my future in the next year. I've spent a lot on an old truck, but I think I spent less on it than buying a newer, yet more inferior vehicle.

 

[jeremyc74]

When I was stating good maintenance to me that includes replacing warn components not just fluid items. If you go 100k without replacing your air filter or oil filter then that's not good maintenance even though an air filter isn't fluid related. Maintenance definitely includes replacing warn parts.


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So what's your "maintenance" interval for shocks and struts and ball joints? Air filters and oil filters rarely have anything to do with the issues a 4Runner has at high mileage, and very few people consider things like ball joints and sway bar links "maintenance " items. You can keep just about anything running forever if you're willing to replace enough parts!

 

[mikeferg]

So what's your "maintenance" interval for shocks and struts and ball joints? Air filters and oil filters rarely have anything to do with the issues a 4Runner has at high mileage, and very few people consider things like ball joints and sway bar links "maintenance " items. You can keep just about anything running forever if you're willing to replace enough parts!

These 3rd gens run forever with little work done. its been proven over and over, the resale value is higher then any other truck this size.

 

[jeremyc74]

These 3rd gens run forever with little work done. its been proven over and over, the resale value is higher then any other truck this size.

They will run forever with little work done, if you're willing to put up with sloppy handling and braking. You can read thread after thread on this site about the stuff it takes to keep them in good shape.

The 3rd gen is one of the best SUVs on the market, but it's not without its issues when you start getting over 200k miles, and ignoring those issues leads to trouble.

Honestly, the resale value is probably too high right now when compared to a 4th gen, unless you really need to off road capabilities. At $3-5k a 3rd gen with 150k on it makes good sense to me. I know I can throw another $2k at it and have a very reliable truck. At $7-8k it makes me start thinking I can spend that extra $2k and bump up to something a little newer.

 

[mikeferg]

They will run forever with little work done, if you're willing to put up with sloppy handling and braking. You can read thread after thread on this site about the stuff it takes to keep them in good shape.

The 3rd gen is one of the best SUVs on the market, but it's not without its issues when you start getting over 200k miles, and ignoring those issues leads to trouble.

Honestly, the resale value is probably too high right now when compared to a 4th gen, unless you really need to off road capabilities. At $3-5k a 3rd gen with 150k on it makes good sense to me. I know I can throw another $2k at it and have a very reliable truck. At $7-8k it makes me start thinking I can spend that extra $2k and bump up to something a little newer.

I agree, I had to upgrade the brakes to the tundra, 4th gen I feel is bigger on the outside but smaller inside, didnt make sense getting one over a 3rd gen, plus you cant beat the glass headlights and the metal bumpers, Before I picked a 3rd gen I looked in to how much an engine swap is from japan with low mileage and its very reasonable. the only issue i see with these is the bushings are starting to rot a little. resale value is good in colorado, I can still get my money back. they sell easy all day 10k plus with under 200k mileage with no problems kelp up ones

 

[DK327]

I would feel comfortable buying a T4R with 250K miles (mental cut off point) depending on the condition of the frame and the maintenance history, if everything was serviced/swapped out at regular intervals. This is knowing what I know now. I got my T4R about 5 months ago for $5K and it had 230K miles. I've since spent close to another $5K on it, not because I had to but because I wanted to, so I would feel comfortable that everything that needed to be serviced was serviced, plus a few extras on the side:

Air & oil filters replaced (OEM)
Oil change with Mobile Super High Mileage (synth blend)
Replaced original radiator with Koyorad 1998A, radiator cap (OEM), coolant flush (OEM)
Replaced Thermostat (OEM) and gasket
Transmission fluid drain and refill (4 quarts OEM ATF)
New 265/75R16 A/T tires - balanced on hunter machine, alignment (lifetime) (Tires Plus)
Replaced passenger fog light bulb with Hella H3 55W
231mm Tundra brake upgrade (Callahan kit - calipers, pads, rotors)
Bled front brakes 1 x 32oz Castrol Dot4 Synth brake fluid
Replaced fuel filter (OEM)
Replaced OEM cat-back exhaust with Walker stainless steel (cat-back) direct fit
Replaced rear differential breather (OEM)
Installed ScangaugeII
Installed Weathertech Front, Rear and Cargo liners
Cleaned MAF Sensor (CRC MAF Cleaner)
Reaplced Front Sway Bar links (OEM) and bushings (Energy Suspension)
Replaxced Rear Sway Bar links (Moog)
Replaced Upper & Lower Ball Joints (OEM)
Replaced Inner & Outer Tie Rods + ITR Boots (OEM)
Replaced rear coils (Moog) & shocks (Monroe), front strut assembly (Monroe Quick Strut)
Replaced left front axle (remanifactured)
Refilled refrigerant (AC)
New single DN Media Player (JVC KD-X330BTS)
New single DN CB Radio (Cobra 18 WX ST II)
New CB antenna (Wilson Little Wil)
Removed skid plates and running boards
Power steering fluid drain and refill (Toyota ATF)
Rear Differential Fluid Drain + Refill (mobile1 75W-90)
Transfer Case Fluid Drain + Refill (mobile1 75W-90)
Front Differential fluid drain and refill (mobile1 75W-90)
Lube drive shaft (Lucas Oil Red&Tacky Grease)
Install B&M Transmission cooler (after radiator)
Thermostat jiggle valve @ 6pm - refill lost coolant (toyota50/50)

I feel there is still things I need to do:

Replace Power steering rack bushings (Energy Suspension)
Replace Upper and Lower Control Arms &/OR Bushings
Clean TB (CRC TB Cleaner)
Replace PCV Valve & Grommet

It's a never ending list but getting it done one by one, as time and money allows... Whatever you spend buying the vehicle, be prepared to spend just as much on maintenance is MY advice.

 

[Suspect_U]

I would feel comfortable buying a T4R with 250K miles (mental cut off point) depending on the condition of the frame and the maintenance history, if everything was serviced/swapped out at regular intervals. This is knowing what I know now. I got my T4R about 5 months ago for $5K and it had 230K miles. I've since spent close to another $5K on it, not because I had to but because I wanted to, so I would feel comfortable that everything that needed to be serviced was serviced, plus a few extras on the side:

...

It's a never ending list but getting it done one by one, as time and money allows... Whatever you spend buying the vehicle, be prepared to spend just as much on maintenance is MY advice.

Good advice. That seems about right to me, and I'd much rather have a $5k T4R (+$5k for maintenance) than a $10k sedan or SUV.

 

[TeamLord]

Check for rust. We've owned low mileage Toyota's that are rotted to hell and run beautifully. Miles don't always matter, especially with Toyota's.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

While i generally agree I bought my 4runner with 260000 km on it. seems like it was well maintained cuz it runs like a top. bloody hard on gas though.

276K kms when I bought mine. Mine's a pig too, lol.

Runs like a top though. I've put 13K kms on it now and nothing has really broken on me, but I have been slowly replacing parts that are on their way out.

Next up is drive belts and fuel tank strap.

Also probably gonna rip out the AC and all skid plates (they are rusted/beat to hell... AC hasn't blown cold air in a long while).




...BUT.. to answer the original question.. like a lot of people have mentioned, mileage isn't the only factor. If we're talking specifically about 4Runners.. if the frame/body is solid and the truck doesn't look beat to hell, I'd have no qualms getting one around the 150K miles mark (obviously, since mine had 172K miles when I bought it).