krelnydelnky
New member
As for the signature - I just bought a new set of wheels and tires. I have the stock setup on there now, and they are basically brand new.
Located in Northern CA
How much are people paying for the NEW 4Runner?
- Thread starter Sputnik
- Start date
As for the signature - I just bought a new set of wheels and tires. I have the stock setup on there now, and they are basically brand new.
Located in Northern CA
Hugo Stiglitz
Member
They've been up. On .85 lift thread and another thread I started.. I dig the gray wheels. I've done black wheels on everything I've owned forever. This was a good change. Here's a quick pic
Tigertater
New member
Same here. Baton Rouge area...got it for 38600...port options installed...they told me below invoice but I'm not convinced
Bought two weeks ago in the Los Angeles Area a New 2016 Trail Premium with KDSS, rear sliding Cargo Deck, Exhaust tip and Lock Nuts, for $40,295 Not including Tax and Licence with 1.99% financing on 20 grand. It did not include Roof Rack cross bars or Runners.
So far I have purchased Husky Liners for $161.00, the vehicle OCD™ (Organized Console Device) Toyota 4Runner Glove Box Organizer for $20.00 off amazon, and the 2 cocoon Grid it visor for $10.00 each.
I plan next month on the TRD Pro Rims Grey which the dealer quoted $685.00 for all four since I bought my truck there. Already have the tires from my old truck.
So far I have purchased Husky Liners for $161.00, the vehicle OCD™ (Organized Console Device) Toyota 4Runner Glove Box Organizer for $20.00 off amazon, and the 2 cocoon Grid it visor for $10.00 each.
I plan next month on the TRD Pro Rims Grey which the dealer quoted $685.00 for all four since I bought my truck there. Already have the tires from my old truck.
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From what I have researched, Gulf States puts additional fees that you cant get back. They showed me "invoice" from their paperwork, if thats actually their price i dont know, but I doubt it since they agreed to it easily.
A couple of things I learned from buying mine that may help some of you in your negotiations. Remember, it's always a chess match between you and the dealer as to how much of your money you'll give up.
Invoice is not the magic number. As of Nov 2016, Toyota pays 2% of MSRP to dealerships on every sale. That's at least 2% the dealership collects if they sell AT invoice. This is paid out every quarter. There can also be factory-to-dealer incentives that can be difficult to determine. I was not able to find any for my T4R Limited, but that doesn't mean there aren't any.
I was in a position where I had a confirmed invoice price on the T4R I wanted BEFORE I walked in to the dealership. Ask your bank if they will provide this information to you. If they won't, there are plenty of sites where a good estimate can be found. My dealer tried to tell me 45K was invoice and "what he paid". If the T4R he had on his lot wasn't such a hard color combo to find, I would have left, because he was lying. When I produced the invoice price, he called it bogus. I had to start leaving to get the price I wanted: Approx $600 over invoice.
TRADES: You're always asked right up front if you have a trade-in. This is to determine how much wiggle room they have when you negotiate. It's a shell game. TELL THEM NO TRADE even if you have one. Get the price right where you want it, then drop the trade. They hate this, but it can play in your favor.
Negotiating a fair price for a T4R was one of the most difficult deals I've worked on, and it's because demand is high! Don't let that deter you from saving as much of your money as you can!
Invoice is not the magic number. As of Nov 2016, Toyota pays 2% of MSRP to dealerships on every sale. That's at least 2% the dealership collects if they sell AT invoice. This is paid out every quarter. There can also be factory-to-dealer incentives that can be difficult to determine. I was not able to find any for my T4R Limited, but that doesn't mean there aren't any.
I was in a position where I had a confirmed invoice price on the T4R I wanted BEFORE I walked in to the dealership. Ask your bank if they will provide this information to you. If they won't, there are plenty of sites where a good estimate can be found. My dealer tried to tell me 45K was invoice and "what he paid". If the T4R he had on his lot wasn't such a hard color combo to find, I would have left, because he was lying. When I produced the invoice price, he called it bogus. I had to start leaving to get the price I wanted: Approx $600 over invoice.
TRADES: You're always asked right up front if you have a trade-in. This is to determine how much wiggle room they have when you negotiate. It's a shell game. TELL THEM NO TRADE even if you have one. Get the price right where you want it, then drop the trade. They hate this, but it can play in your favor.
Negotiating a fair price for a T4R was one of the most difficult deals I've worked on, and it's because demand is high! Don't let that deter you from saving as much of your money as you can!
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crankycodger
New member
That's true, but the real reason goes even deeper than that.
Toyota dealers, by their very nature, are likely the #1 most difficult group of dealers in the nation to deal with from a customer's point of view. Dodge dealerships used to carry that mantle years ago. Basically, their sales departments are all run on what is called a "system", and there are no deviations from this antiquated but time-honored formula. It's a hand-me-down of the old Hull-Hobbs system originated by Ford in the '50s. In the Southeast region, I suspect the Jim Moran organization was responsible for initiating this horrible way of treating the customer. The salesman is actually nothing more than a "runner", whose sole job it is to land you on a vehicle then carry offers and counter-offers back and forth between the customer and the floor manager. And don't even mention the pressure when you get into the F&I office! It isn't called the "sweat booth" for nothing.
The dealership from whom I bought mine continued to spin me through the system even though I made it clear that I had been a dealer my entire life. And the reason is simple: regardless of who you are or how much homework you've done, the system works more often than not.
Thanks for sharing. That is an interesting perspective, and it makes sense considering my experience was exactly the same. Sales manager was who I primarily negotiated with.
Any other recommendations you could add considering your background?
crankycodger
New member
Well, you're right on point with your advice about the trade-in. Look 'em right in the eyes and lie like a rug. They're gonna lie to you, so why not? It is imperative however to know the accurate actual cash wholesale value of your trade, and negotiate to that point once you've gotten the real buying price of the new vehicle but not before then!
Do your best to keep emotion out of the transaction. They are pros, and can tell every time when you just gotta have it.
I would personally forget about trying to figure out what invoice is or is not. It really doesn't matter; they'll go only so low no matter what true cost is. And the floor manager likely doesn't really know anyway. There's the 2% "Holdback" you mention, as well as the quarterly incentives you again reference. True invoice is often difficult for even the dealer to figure. I know I got an honest $4000. off my $47000. sticker Limited in August, and that's enough for me. But I'm pretty sure they hated me when I left.
Whatever you do, remember that the only acceptable answer to any product offered in the F&I office is NO!!! PERIOD!! You can always buy the extended warranty later if you need it.
And finally, remember that your most important body part in this transaction is your feet. It's only when you get up to leave and they actually let you go that you can be sure you're really below their threshold of pain on the deal. Go back in and up your offer a hundred bucks at the time.
This entire procedure should be seen as war, and there most assuredly will not be two winners!
Right on! Thats some great advice! Considering I was able to knock off about the same amount from sticker price on my Limited as you, the insider, I am very happy with that!
philsey
New member
Some mighty good insight there.
"...to know the accurate actual cash wholesale value of your trade..."
Interested in your thoughts as to how best to do this. I just shop the used car market for equivalent and subtract a couple grand.
".....I would personally forget about trying to figure out what invoice is or is not. "
Excellent! I am constantly amazed at how many buyers fall for this made-up term. To think that any businessman is ever going to reveal what their "invoice" really is, is just ignorant.
crankycodger
New member
Don't laugh, but I've gotten lazy in my old age. I simply take it to the nearest CarMax where they're happy to give me a buying figure. This is true wholesale.
srsrogerissrs
Member
Just purchased my 2016 Trail Premium in White.
Where? Joe Myers Toyota in Houston, Tx
How much? 39,500
Didn't purchase an extended warranty or anything extra. Just the runner + ttl.
Where? Joe Myers Toyota in Houston, Tx
How much? 39,500
Didn't purchase an extended warranty or anything extra. Just the runner + ttl.
ramsey8582
New member
I'm about to head to Mountainstate Toyota in Denver. I've been negotiating via email on a SR5 with the 3rd row seat, running boards and convenience package. So far they've come down to $34,905, MSRP is $38,424. Good deal??
I've been out of the car buying game for a few months now, but I'd say for the effort you've put in, yes that's a fairly good deal. Not saying you haven't done any research or spent time, but my opinion is that dealers won't show all there cards before someone comes onto the lot.
In my experience, if you do a test drive this week an hour before they close, they will start incrementally cutting the price to try to close the deal.
How much more could you get off? Depends on your negotiating ability, how much time you have, market, and dealer desperation. In my area, I feel like you could get another $1000 off without too much hassle, but $1500-$2000 off by playing hardball and playing dealer against dealer.
As a sales professional myself and the market research I did for my 2016 4Runner, I'd go for another $1,000 off and close the deal. The amount of time would go up exponentially for anything more than that. Besides the amount of time it would take, I'm always a fan of keeping a positive relationship with the seller, because you never know what help you may need from the dealer in the future.
Again, this is all my opinion and I'm sure other people would disagree. Take it for what it's worth.
Best of luck!
fleshman78
New member
2016 Limited 4x4 in Blizzard Pearl White
Just picked up a 2016 Limited 4x4 in white for $41,792 + TTL. I found it to be reasonable for the DFW area. Had added options of running boards, door edge guards, chrome exhaust tip, window tint, and Zaktek.
Just picked up a 2016 Limited 4x4 in white for $41,792 + TTL. I found it to be reasonable for the DFW area. Had added options of running boards, door edge guards, chrome exhaust tip, window tint, and Zaktek.
Lindenwood
New member
I paid MSRP for my 2016 Quicksand TRDP. There were 4 within 500 miles when we made the decision to buy it, and 3 sold within 24 hours. So, we sent $1000 over for the dealership to hold the last one until the weekend when we could go get it (5 hours away). When we got there, another guy was looking at it and crept around the dealership for over an hour after we sat down, hoping my deal wouldnt go through. I know this because he asked me twice over that period how it was going and what I was paying.
On Point
New member
Respectfully disagree. That is a silly statement to make, "You don't want to pay on anything for 6 years"... with that logic, no one should buy a house.
The reality is that if you are financially sound, plan on keeping a vehicle till the wheels fall off, 6 years to finance it is not a big deal. To say 36 months tops should be goal is also silly, with so many dealers offering 0% for 60/72 months, you'd be a fool to not finance it on those terms.
Midnight Anvil
New member
So the girlfriend and I are prepping to move from California to Texas in the next couple of months and I am curious what people paying to register their 5th gens in TX.
CA DMV just charged me $311 for my 2016 and I am curious what the overall cost would be in Texas after everything is taken into consideration; safety inspection, DMV fees, any other associated fees.
Thanks in advance.
CA DMV just charged me $311 for my 2016 and I am curious what the overall cost would be in Texas after everything is taken into consideration; safety inspection, DMV fees, any other associated fees.
Thanks in advance.
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Hugo Stiglitz
Member
Respectfully understand your point
Im talking about automobiles not houses
Yeah and 0% APR is the exception, theres always an exception
To each his own - like I said its my 2 cents - that means take it or leave it
If I finance, Ill never finance over 3 years for cars - On houses....My house is a 15 year loan
My logic has served my retirement fund and daughters college fund well, just sayin - Its my logic and nobody has to listen to me, just sharing what has worked for me. I like owning things free and clear
