How much are people paying for the NEW 4Runner?

Just chiming in to remind you guys that many of the posters here have no idea what OTD means. They know it means "Out The Door", but from there it gets murky.

Out the door is pretty clear. Including dealer fees, doc fees, etc etc. No point in putting in local sales tax as it would make the number totally useless to anyone not living in that area. Tax on a car in STL is almost 10% just like any other purchase. If I included that, it would look like a horrible deal. On top of this, dealers in MO don't collect sales tax. So for me, it was "out the door".
 
I paid 35500 before tax and stuff. For a Trd off-road. Here in md at Koons of Westmister the salesman was Alex a very nice Russian guy! Msrp was 40k


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Out the door is pretty clear. Including dealer fees, doc fees, etc etc. No point in putting in local sales tax as it would make the number totally useless to anyone not living in that area. Tax on a car in STL is almost 10% just like any other purchase. If I included that, it would look like a horrible deal. On top of this, dealers in MO don't collect sales tax. So for me, it was "out the door".


Totally agree, a clearer look should include trade-in info because a lot of $ can be lost/gained there, yet still project a killer OTD deal.
 
Out the door is pretty clear. Including dealer fees, doc fees, etc etc. No point in putting in local sales tax as it would make the number totally useless to anyone not living in that area. Tax on a car in STL is almost 10% just like any other purchase. If I included that, it would look like a horrible deal. On top of this, dealers in MO don't collect sales tax. So for me, it was "out the door".

That is how you are factoring OTD, but others do it differently. The only way OTD pricing works is when everyone has the same standards. Sales tax should always be considered in OTD pricing, regardless of where you live. OTD is defined as sales price + TT&L.
 
That is how you are factoring OTD, but others do it differently. The only way OTD pricing works is when everyone has the same standards. Sales tax should always be considered in OTD pricing, regardless of where you live. OTD is defined as sales price + TT&L.

And i agree with the OTD not including sales tax. Some places have none, some places have 13%.

"OTD" should just be the sales price of the vehicle. It is the only thing that is the same for everyone...how much was the actual car, not factoring anything else (taxes, tag, trade in value, downpayment, etc etc).
 
OTD has always meant whatever cost it takes to get "out the door" which includes tax, title, and license fees (TT+L) as [MENTION=95612]JustRami[/MENTION] mentioned... and any other dealer fees you may or may not have been suckered in to.

in any forum i've ever been a part of, or in any car discussion discussing what i paid OTD, that has always been the formula.

that said, when discussing sales price and OTD costs on online forums like T4R, because of the wide swing geographically for TT+L, usually any "what did you pay" thread always was set up best when folks broke down their transaction, at minimum stating (1) what the sales price is and (2) what the OTD price was.

that way you have a measure everyone can compare which is the sales price and you have an additional measure folks in the same region could compare which was OTD. if people only stated OTD, it's unknown if that's because of a low sales price, low tax rate, low fees, etc... if people provide both pieces of info, both sales price and OTD, then it becomes a little clearer. even better when you list sales price, options, TT+L, etc... all in an itemized fashion.
 
OTD has always meant whatever cost it takes to get "out the door" which includes tax, title, and license fees (TT+L) as [MENTION=95612]JustRami[/MENTION] mentioned... and any other dealer fees you may or may not have been suckered in to.

in any forum i've ever been a part of, or in any car discussion discussing what i paid OTD, that has always been the formula.

that said, when discussing sales price and OTD costs on online forums like T4R, because of the wide swing geographically for TT+L, usually any "what did you pay" thread always was set up best when folks broke down their transaction, at minimum stating (1) what the sales price is and (2) what the OTD price was.

that way you have a measure everyone can compare which is the sales price and you have an additional measure folks in the same region could compare which was OTD. if people only stated OTD, it's unknown if that's because of a low sales price, low tax rate, low fees, etc... if people provide both pieces of info, both sales price and OTD, then it becomes a little clearer. even better when you list sales price, options, TT+L, etc... all in an itemized fashion.

I can agree to that :thumb: It helps to break things down with line items.

I only care about sales price, since taxes i can calculate on my own, and dealer fees are usually posted on their website so i know that before hand.
 
Paid $43,095 for a 2019 Limited Nightshade Edition (not including TTL, no third row or automatic running boards). Easily the best deal I found in the WA area for a Nightshade.
 
OTD has always meant whatever cost it takes to get "out the door" which includes tax, title, and license fees (TT+L) as [MENTION=95612]JustRami[/MENTION] mentioned... and any other dealer fees you may or may not have been suckered in to.

in any forum i've ever been a part of, or in any car discussion discussing what i paid OTD, that has always been the formula.

that said, when discussing sales price and OTD costs on online forums like T4R, because of the wide swing geographically for TT+L, usually any "what did you pay" thread always was set up best when folks broke down their transaction, at minimum stating (1) what the sales price is and (2) what the OTD price was.

Yes, my .02, the starting point should always be an accurate OTD number followed by as much detail as possible. Without an accurate OTD number you have a much more difficult task putting together the information. Your definition of OTD is how I've always understood it as well.
 
Seems if we are debating tax or no tax for OTD 300+ pages in, it seems their is little discounting on the 4Runners. So posting up what people paid for a new 4Runner may be somewhat useless.

Based off this i cant see any discounting more then a couple thousand if we are debating Tax or whatnot.

But if/when i buy mine ill post what i paid with out tax and whatnot since it would be the only consistent thing.
 
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Yes, my .02, the starting point should always be an accurate OTD number followed by as much detail as possible. Without an accurate OTD number you have a much more difficult task putting together the information. Your definition of OTD is how I've always understood it as well.

I'm surprised you can even get a deal in Seattle. What dealer?
 
$41,800 TRDOP with KDSS, Running boards, Crossbars, Muffler tip, front door protectors.
MSRP $44,900, Invoice $41,700. Santa Margarita Toyota in Orange County, Ca.
 
Sorry guys but you should all be lucky to pay only the figures I have seen here.

Buying a T4R in Europe you have to pay the dealer in the US + shipping (1k?) + Euro-Tax 19% + Import-Tax (10% over dealer+shipping+Euro-Tax). Than you have to pay the shipping from the harbor to your home/dealer and somebody to do the homologation. Having all the papers, the licensing is the easy part of it and costs about 120 US$. That ends up in something very ugly.
 
Seems if we are debating tax or no tax for OTD 300+ pages in, it seems their is little discounting on the 4Runners. So posting up what people paid for a new 4Runner may be somewhat useless.

Based off this i cant see any discounting more then a couple thousand if we are debating Tax or whatnot.
I haven't seen many here that didn't get more than a couple thousand off.

But if/when i buy mine ill post what i paid with out tax and whatnot since it would be the only consistent thing.

The most consistent thing to do is to post the OTD price along with the breakdown including MSRP with discount, fees, tax, etc but sure if you really feel the need to avoid posting the OTD price then as long as you include enough information it's still useful. The bigger problem though is that you've decided on one method and the next person will come along and decide on another method applying their own logic and it creates confusion when it isn't really necessary. The simplest and most consistent method is to just use the OTD price and include the breakdown. The details are critical regardless of the method but using a consistent method just makes it easier for everyone.
 
New here. Call me a sucker but living in the Bay Area it was impossible to find. Got a 2019 Voodoo Blue TRD Pro. Really wanted a used cement but couldn't find one. Negotiated off the $5k over to $2500 over the $48k sticker. But I'm happy. My trade covered half of it.
 
New here. Call me a sucker but living in the Bay Area it was impossible to find. Got a 2019 Voodoo Blue TRD Pro. Really wanted a used cement but couldn't find one. Negotiated off the $5k over to $2500 over the $48k sticker. But I'm happy. My trade covered half of it.

I don't think that's a bad deal for the Bay Area. I think the initial demand is cooling a bit. Just enjoy your Pro. I had an FJ Cruiser in Voodoo Blue and loved it.
 

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