How much are people paying for the NEW 4Runner?
- Thread starter Sputnik
- Start date
I think I overpaid in Socal but thought I'd share anyways.
'21 TRD ORP with KDSS + Moonroof + Pred Steps
Purchase Price: $44,600.00
OTD: $48,126.00
I also got the extended warranty, sealant (which I just found out via a previous post I overpaid for), and the Toyota extra care (probably should not have gotten this either).
I'm just taking consolation in the fact that I do LOVE my new ride.
'21 TRD ORP with KDSS + Moonroof + Pred Steps
Purchase Price: $44,600.00
OTD: $48,126.00
I also got the extended warranty, sealant (which I just found out via a previous post I overpaid for), and the Toyota extra care (probably should not have gotten this either).
I'm just taking consolation in the fact that I do LOVE my new ride.
BlueDrumStudio
New member
I found it extremely challenging getting these dealers to negotiate off sticker price here in California, there were even a few dealers trying to mark-up $5,000 over believe it or not. Only discount they were offering was the current $1,000
Eventually found a 2020 TRD Off Road Premium at Longo Toyota in El Monte that made me a deal I could live with. While I agree with many posters in this thread about the OTD price being irrelevant to buyers in different States and even different Counties here in California, here is my deal.
My MSRP was $46,068, selling price was $42,446 before the $1,000 Toyota rebate of $1,000 which nets a final price of $41,446 before tax, license and other fees.
Important aspect to remember about the rebate is that it is added to your downpayment after all the taxes and fees are calculated. Meaning I paid sales tax and other State registration fees on the $42,446 amount, not $41,446. May be different in other States, but what that means in my area of California which charges 9.5% sales tax in Los Angeles County is my $1,000 rebate nets just over $900!
The option on this vehicle are KDSS, Moonroof, Blackout Emblems, Roof cross bars, Cargo Cover, Door Edge Guard and Exhaust Tip. The delivery and handling fee $1,175 which is probably the built in dealer profit!
Here are my numbers:
Cash price $42,446
Doc Fee $85
Sales Tax $4,040.85 (ouch!)
Elec. Vehicle Reg $30
-------------------------
Sub. Total $46,601.45
License fee $276
Registration fee $262
Cal Tire Fee $8.75
Smog Abatement $20
-------------------------
Sub Total $566.75 (Cal. officials have gone a little nuts increasing these fees)
Grand Total $47,168.20
Less $1,000 Toyota rebate
--------------------------
Out-the-door final price is $46,168.20
Probably not the best deal you can find, but I am satisfied with it. My local dealer only had 3-2021's in stock wouldn't budge a nickel off MSRP. Longo had 12 in stock, but only 1 remaining 2020. This the only major difference is the LED headlights, but they are much better than the wife's 2005 Ford F150.
Best of luck if you're out looking for a deal, keep banging those dealers!
Eventually found a 2020 TRD Off Road Premium at Longo Toyota in El Monte that made me a deal I could live with. While I agree with many posters in this thread about the OTD price being irrelevant to buyers in different States and even different Counties here in California, here is my deal.
My MSRP was $46,068, selling price was $42,446 before the $1,000 Toyota rebate of $1,000 which nets a final price of $41,446 before tax, license and other fees.
Important aspect to remember about the rebate is that it is added to your downpayment after all the taxes and fees are calculated. Meaning I paid sales tax and other State registration fees on the $42,446 amount, not $41,446. May be different in other States, but what that means in my area of California which charges 9.5% sales tax in Los Angeles County is my $1,000 rebate nets just over $900!
The option on this vehicle are KDSS, Moonroof, Blackout Emblems, Roof cross bars, Cargo Cover, Door Edge Guard and Exhaust Tip. The delivery and handling fee $1,175 which is probably the built in dealer profit!
Here are my numbers:
Cash price $42,446
Doc Fee $85
Sales Tax $4,040.85 (ouch!)
Elec. Vehicle Reg $30
-------------------------
Sub. Total $46,601.45
License fee $276
Registration fee $262
Cal Tire Fee $8.75
Smog Abatement $20
-------------------------
Sub Total $566.75 (Cal. officials have gone a little nuts increasing these fees)
Grand Total $47,168.20
Less $1,000 Toyota rebate
--------------------------
Out-the-door final price is $46,168.20
Probably not the best deal you can find, but I am satisfied with it. My local dealer only had 3-2021's in stock wouldn't budge a nickel off MSRP. Longo had 12 in stock, but only 1 remaining 2020. This the only major difference is the LED headlights, but they are much better than the wife's 2005 Ford F150.
Best of luck if you're out looking for a deal, keep banging those dealers!
soflastreetz
New member
Placed the deposit yesterday for a 2021 TRD ORP mag grey. Features include KDSS, moonroof, sliding rear cargo deck and running boards. Even offered to tint the windows a little more. How generous!
MSRP 47548. Taxes were $2653.15. OTD 46k even. Bought in South Florida. Seems like a fair price.
MSRP 47548. Taxes were $2653.15. OTD 46k even. Bought in South Florida. Seems like a fair price.
Last edited:
Suggestion about cargo tray
New to the forum, making a switch from Taco to 4Runner. So I have offers from two dealers:
1) about $1200 more expensive but has that slide out cargo tray
2) about $1200 cheaters and does not have the slide out cargo tray
I originally wanted the slide out cargo tray so I can sleep flat in it and load some heavy stuff/gear here and there. BUT is it worth the $1200? I asked dealers 1 to match dealer 2 but they refused to and told me that they are already giving me a lot for my Taco.
If I do go with dealer 1 I would essentially have used my Taco for 1 year about 11k miles and paid $200 for the usage.
Thank you in advance!
New to the forum, making a switch from Taco to 4Runner. So I have offers from two dealers:
1) about $1200 more expensive but has that slide out cargo tray
2) about $1200 cheaters and does not have the slide out cargo tray
I originally wanted the slide out cargo tray so I can sleep flat in it and load some heavy stuff/gear here and there. BUT is it worth the $1200? I asked dealers 1 to match dealer 2 but they refused to and told me that they are already giving me a lot for my Taco.
If I do go with dealer 1 I would essentially have used my Taco for 1 year about 11k miles and paid $200 for the usage.
Thank you in advance!
Finally picked up my ORP
It took a couple months, but I was patient and picked up my ORP (just under 8% off msrp). I think I got a fair deal considering the tough market we're in here in SoCal at the moment. I asked for help a couple pages back and didn't really get any replies. So, I'll just tell you what I did and maybe I can be of some help to future buyers.
If you're very specific about what you want, and you want to get a good deal, be prepared to put some time in. If you just stop by your closest local dealer, prepare to end up settling, and paying a bit more. As long as you're happy and they made money, it's all good. I didn't go that route. I've read most of this thread, and most people will claim they got unbelievable deals, a few others fess up and say they probably paid to much but got what hey wanted. I wanted to land somewhere in between.
First of all, decide what you want. Model, color, options etc. Think about what you absolutely need and what you could do without. Personally I wanted an ORP with kdss and moonroof in one particular color. Those are features you can't add or remove. Most of the other options/accessories can be bought later (much cheaper). When you find a candidate, look at the accessories. Did you want all weather mats, or an exhaust tip? Roof cross-bars or $600 running boards? You know you can buy that stuff from most any dealer parts dept for WAY cheaper? Check amazon and ebay. You can get most of this stuff for 20-50% off.
OK, now you know what you want, how do you find it? You can start by searching toyota.com inventory. That'll give you a rough idea what's around your immediate area, but won't specify what dealer has that particular vehicle. Try cars.com or autotrader.com(a little more accurate) and filter down to what you're searching for. You can sort by distance to see what dealers near you have what in stock. Autotrader will add "newly listed" to the most recent additions. Adjust the search distance to as far as you're comfortable traveling. Again, I'm in SoCal, there are dozens of dealers in a small area. When I started my search, I included neighboring states. I concluded it wasn't worth my time and effort to travel out of the area, but if the savings were big enough, I would have. Also watch those Toyota incentives and promotions. Not only do they vary by state, they vary within the state of CA.
Now it's time to open the floodgates. There's a great thread I can't find at the moment. It was on a 4runner or tacoma forum. A guy explained his process of creating new email and phone specifically for communicating with dealers. He explained creating a spreadsheet to organize his correspondence. If I can find it, I'll post it. Basically you wanna create a brand new email address. If you use gmail you can also add a voice # to that account, this way you can field the texts, calls and voicemails. Create a generic form letter and start emailing dealers. Send them to the ones that don't have exactly what you want. Use the "Tell me more" or "Unlock lowest price" link on the dealer website listing. When you make contact, let them know what you want, if they don't have it, can they look at what's coming in and do they expect it any time soon? The one I bought wasn't even on the lot yet, I bought it before it arrived. I had to be patient. Because I bought it before it go to the dealer, they couldn't put anything I didn't want on it.
Soon you'll see that not everything is as it seems. Some dealers won't even have a 4Runner on their lot, but they'll beg you to come in. Others might have a close match, but you go to see it and find $$$ market adjustment added to the msrp. At some point, hopefully, you will be able to find someone that can get you what you want and not play too many games. Try to establish the best price you can before you get there, yet leave the final offer for when you're there to negotiate the details.
Last step, when you want to make the purchase, establish that final price before anything. Know how much you want to pay and don't stray from that. If they don't meet at a deal you're happy with, walk. But don't be unrealistic. Just because some random guy on the internet said he paid $10k under factory invoice, don't expect to get it. Some people like to hit a certain amount under msrp, but I'd rather know the exact out the door price. I've already calculated how much my goal price is saving me. Having a firm OTD price gives them less room to unexpectedly add more to the sale without you realizing. If you like paying $1000 for window tint or $900 for an alarm, go for it. As I said at the beginning of this post, I don't add anything I cant buy later on cheaper. If they want to work it into the deal and they're still able to meet my pricing, that works for me.
Next comes down payment, trade-ins and financing. These are all other areas for the dealer to insert profit into the sale. Before you even go into the dealer, find the best financing you can, then let the dealer try to beat it. If you're gonna trade in, be sure you're getting what you want. Of course they want to make money on that old junker you're bringing in. Don't let them offer you a crazy high amount for your trade if you haven't settled on a final sale price. Last step is the actual purchase. You're in the final round, this is where they try to get you to buy those high profit items. The coatings, warranties, films, protective films, etc etc etc. There's a new one I ran across. It's a device that makes your center brake light flash a few times every time you push the pedal. Gets the person following you to pay more attention. Interesting idea, but not worth $600 to me. I can't help but think this is a $5 circuit that plugs in line with your brake lamp. OF course it's preinstalled, and they won't remove it. So I remove that dealer from my list of places I'd buy from. Anyways, stay strong, don't agree to this stuff. If you've got plenty of cash and wanna make the sales guy fist pump the minute you walk out of the room, more power to you.
One last thing thing I forgot, I'll put a link here at the end. You're looking at toyota.com inventory or maybe autotrader. That'll lead you directly to the dealers website. Sometimes they'll list of the options, sometimes they won't. They generally always have the VIN number. It must be the law or something because I haven't come across a listing that didn't have it. Click the link below and copy the VIN into the spot that says "PASTE_VIN_HERE". You'll be able to see (basically the window sticker) exactly what comes installed before the dealer has their way with it.
LINK
Oh and another last thing, if the dealer website is showing a price/discount that's even lower than MSRP, it's usually too good to be true. The dealers I spoke with that had the most discounted price published on their website, usually had the most ridiculous add $$$ on items. When I finally got a legit quote, it was usually even higher than msrp. If it's too good to be true, it usually is.
Message me if you want to know my experiences with particular dealers.
It took a couple months, but I was patient and picked up my ORP (just under 8% off msrp). I think I got a fair deal considering the tough market we're in here in SoCal at the moment. I asked for help a couple pages back and didn't really get any replies. So, I'll just tell you what I did and maybe I can be of some help to future buyers.
If you're very specific about what you want, and you want to get a good deal, be prepared to put some time in. If you just stop by your closest local dealer, prepare to end up settling, and paying a bit more. As long as you're happy and they made money, it's all good. I didn't go that route. I've read most of this thread, and most people will claim they got unbelievable deals, a few others fess up and say they probably paid to much but got what hey wanted. I wanted to land somewhere in between.
First of all, decide what you want. Model, color, options etc. Think about what you absolutely need and what you could do without. Personally I wanted an ORP with kdss and moonroof in one particular color. Those are features you can't add or remove. Most of the other options/accessories can be bought later (much cheaper). When you find a candidate, look at the accessories. Did you want all weather mats, or an exhaust tip? Roof cross-bars or $600 running boards? You know you can buy that stuff from most any dealer parts dept for WAY cheaper? Check amazon and ebay. You can get most of this stuff for 20-50% off.
OK, now you know what you want, how do you find it? You can start by searching toyota.com inventory. That'll give you a rough idea what's around your immediate area, but won't specify what dealer has that particular vehicle. Try cars.com or autotrader.com(a little more accurate) and filter down to what you're searching for. You can sort by distance to see what dealers near you have what in stock. Autotrader will add "newly listed" to the most recent additions. Adjust the search distance to as far as you're comfortable traveling. Again, I'm in SoCal, there are dozens of dealers in a small area. When I started my search, I included neighboring states. I concluded it wasn't worth my time and effort to travel out of the area, but if the savings were big enough, I would have. Also watch those Toyota incentives and promotions. Not only do they vary by state, they vary within the state of CA.
Now it's time to open the floodgates. There's a great thread I can't find at the moment. It was on a 4runner or tacoma forum. A guy explained his process of creating new email and phone specifically for communicating with dealers. He explained creating a spreadsheet to organize his correspondence. If I can find it, I'll post it. Basically you wanna create a brand new email address. If you use gmail you can also add a voice # to that account, this way you can field the texts, calls and voicemails. Create a generic form letter and start emailing dealers. Send them to the ones that don't have exactly what you want. Use the "Tell me more" or "Unlock lowest price" link on the dealer website listing. When you make contact, let them know what you want, if they don't have it, can they look at what's coming in and do they expect it any time soon? The one I bought wasn't even on the lot yet, I bought it before it arrived. I had to be patient. Because I bought it before it go to the dealer, they couldn't put anything I didn't want on it.
Soon you'll see that not everything is as it seems. Some dealers won't even have a 4Runner on their lot, but they'll beg you to come in. Others might have a close match, but you go to see it and find $$$ market adjustment added to the msrp. At some point, hopefully, you will be able to find someone that can get you what you want and not play too many games. Try to establish the best price you can before you get there, yet leave the final offer for when you're there to negotiate the details.
Last step, when you want to make the purchase, establish that final price before anything. Know how much you want to pay and don't stray from that. If they don't meet at a deal you're happy with, walk. But don't be unrealistic. Just because some random guy on the internet said he paid $10k under factory invoice, don't expect to get it. Some people like to hit a certain amount under msrp, but I'd rather know the exact out the door price. I've already calculated how much my goal price is saving me. Having a firm OTD price gives them less room to unexpectedly add more to the sale without you realizing. If you like paying $1000 for window tint or $900 for an alarm, go for it. As I said at the beginning of this post, I don't add anything I cant buy later on cheaper. If they want to work it into the deal and they're still able to meet my pricing, that works for me.
Next comes down payment, trade-ins and financing. These are all other areas for the dealer to insert profit into the sale. Before you even go into the dealer, find the best financing you can, then let the dealer try to beat it. If you're gonna trade in, be sure you're getting what you want. Of course they want to make money on that old junker you're bringing in. Don't let them offer you a crazy high amount for your trade if you haven't settled on a final sale price. Last step is the actual purchase. You're in the final round, this is where they try to get you to buy those high profit items. The coatings, warranties, films, protective films, etc etc etc. There's a new one I ran across. It's a device that makes your center brake light flash a few times every time you push the pedal. Gets the person following you to pay more attention. Interesting idea, but not worth $600 to me. I can't help but think this is a $5 circuit that plugs in line with your brake lamp. OF course it's preinstalled, and they won't remove it. So I remove that dealer from my list of places I'd buy from. Anyways, stay strong, don't agree to this stuff. If you've got plenty of cash and wanna make the sales guy fist pump the minute you walk out of the room, more power to you.
One last thing thing I forgot, I'll put a link here at the end. You're looking at toyota.com inventory or maybe autotrader. That'll lead you directly to the dealers website. Sometimes they'll list of the options, sometimes they won't. They generally always have the VIN number. It must be the law or something because I haven't come across a listing that didn't have it. Click the link below and copy the VIN into the spot that says "PASTE_VIN_HERE". You'll be able to see (basically the window sticker) exactly what comes installed before the dealer has their way with it.
LINK
Oh and another last thing, if the dealer website is showing a price/discount that's even lower than MSRP, it's usually too good to be true. The dealers I spoke with that had the most discounted price published on their website, usually had the most ridiculous add $$$ on items. When I finally got a legit quote, it was usually even higher than msrp. If it's too good to be true, it usually is.
Message me if you want to know my experiences with particular dealers.
Last edited:
EmmanuelMV
New member
Hey all. I have browsed the thread for a while, and have been wheeling and dealing for a few weeks. looking for opinions on this offer.
2021 ORP
KDSS
Moonroof/Tilt
Wheel locks
Cargo cover
All weather floor liners
Anodized Running boards
MSRP 46,882
Invoice 43,817
Dealer best price is $44,300 + rebate. Bringing price to $43,300 + tax/title/license.
OTD 48,207
2021 ORP
KDSS
Moonroof/Tilt
Wheel locks
Cargo cover
All weather floor liners
Anodized Running boards
MSRP 46,882
Invoice 43,817
Dealer best price is $44,300 + rebate. Bringing price to $43,300 + tax/title/license.
OTD 48,207
BlueDrumStudio
New member
Excellent advice, I forgot to mention that I also contacted a dealer outside my neighborhood by browsing their online inventory and basically said I wanted them to entice me to make the 1-hour drive; they did! Check the vin when you arrive to make certain you're getting what you think.
Pulled a trigger on a Pro Lunar Rock. Originally was just going to settle with the MGM from a local dealership but I saw the lunar rock one around town and decided to call around. I called about 20 some dealers I think hahaha:lol:
Called around many dealers around me and finally found one that would give me MSRP and give me decent trade in for my Tacoma. Some of the dealers in Texas, Arizona, and Colorado were crazy. Often times asking for 7-10k mark up. One dealer in Texas told me that he located a vehicle for me and it’s going to 7k mark up since they paid 2k with a Tundra trade from another dealer lol. I just laughed and told them I will find another one.
My deal
52.5k MSRP I think the only option was the trail rail.
Tacoma trade in 36k, approximately 38.5k with the tax credit. I purchased the Taco in Cali for 39k OTD so I don’t feel too bad about it. Didn’t even know trade in tax credit was a thing.
I’m paying about 18.5k out the door.
Receiving the vehicle later this month.
Called around many dealers around me and finally found one that would give me MSRP and give me decent trade in for my Tacoma. Some of the dealers in Texas, Arizona, and Colorado were crazy. Often times asking for 7-10k mark up. One dealer in Texas told me that he located a vehicle for me and it’s going to 7k mark up since they paid 2k with a Tundra trade from another dealer lol. I just laughed and told them I will find another one.
My deal
52.5k MSRP I think the only option was the trail rail.
Tacoma trade in 36k, approximately 38.5k with the tax credit. I purchased the Taco in Cali for 39k OTD so I don’t feel too bad about it. Didn’t even know trade in tax credit was a thing.
I’m paying about 18.5k out the door.
Receiving the vehicle later this month.
I paid $43 for my $2020 Limited with a sticker of $48..that included the $1K rebate from Toyota at the time.
Always ask to see their invoice sheet and the purchase price should end up eating into their dealer holdback. Also consider time on the lot into your negotiations.
I push, but also realize that the sales folks are trying to make a living as well so try to get to a fair deal for both parties.
Always ask to see their invoice sheet and the purchase price should end up eating into their dealer holdback. Also consider time on the lot into your negotiations.
I push, but also realize that the sales folks are trying to make a living as well so try to get to a fair deal for both parties.
pull4adv
New member
Just pulled a trigger on a Nautical Blue TRD ORP w/ kdss, moonroof and wilderness package.
$49k OTD (CA Tax Sucks!)
I think I paid a little much for it but it was the spec I wanted. This just came in today with 2 miles in the ODO.
Dealership would not budge any lower since for some reason this is a "rare" color? There were only 10 nautical blue 4runners in a 300 miles radius of CA. 6 of them were already reserved before getting to the lots.
$49k OTD (CA Tax Sucks!)
I think I paid a little much for it but it was the spec I wanted. This just came in today with 2 miles in the ODO.
Dealership would not budge any lower since for some reason this is a "rare" color? There were only 10 nautical blue 4runners in a 300 miles radius of CA. 6 of them were already reserved before getting to the lots.
meRockboost
New member
Just got a 2021 nightshade in blizzard pearl.
MSRP $49,972
Paid $46,000
Rebates were $1500
Total before ttl was $44,500
Plus I got them to cover the last 3 payments on my lease so I could turn it in early.
Had to drive 2 hours to get it but I ended up with 2 dealers offering $46k, while I had 5 dealers who were not willing to budge from MSRP.
MSRP $49,972
Paid $46,000
Rebates were $1500
Total before ttl was $44,500
Plus I got them to cover the last 3 payments on my lease so I could turn it in early.
Had to drive 2 hours to get it but I ended up with 2 dealers offering $46k, while I had 5 dealers who were not willing to budge from MSRP.
For those who are purchasing from a dealer who decides to perform add-ons (nitrogen, sketching, etc.) simply tell them you do not pay for BS. I told my selling dealer I don’t pay for BS and to remove it immediately. They removed it from the selling price or I would have walked. It’s not like most of us have to buy a new 40k-50k vehicle so you have the upper hand when purchasing and don’t let anyone tell you differently.
054Runner1
New member
I’ve got 2 dealers warring back and forth on a limited 4x4. Right now they are offering 12% off MSRP before TTL out the door will be between 47-48k is that a pretty good deal?
