How "pre-wired" am I?? (E-Locker Wiring Help Needed)

rickashay

rickashay

New member
So I have been reading and searching until my eyes pop out, on the e-locker wiring. There are a couple ways to do this, some being easier than others - the dual relay 12V method seems to be the quick and easy method.

As shown here: Outdoor Recreation Network - Off-Highway, Jeep, & 4x4 Fun

I however, have a complete e-locked 96 4Runner sitting at my disposal (wrecked). I have already pulled the entire rear axle out from under it and in the process of cleaning up the housing and re-painting it/replacing seals etc. I would like to use all of the factory wiring for the e-locker and use the factory e-locker switch on the dash and the light in the cluster to indicate when the rear end is "locked."

I know from reading this article (Retrofit Electric Locker) that some 4Runners came kind of "pre-wired" for the e-locker even if they were not equiped with one, and I'm hoping this is what I have!! I pulled apart my dash today to look by the factory fuse block behind the kick panel and see if I could find any stashed connectors like in the article mentioned above. I found nothing. I thought all hope was lost until I pulled the area below my cluster (where the e-locker switch is supposed to go) and found these:
20110509-IMG_8500.jpg~original
(the e-locker switch plug is kind of out of site here)

Now my question is this: is the black plug pictured above the same plug that is supposed to plug into the "4WD Control Computer" that is needed to run the e-locker?

The black plug fits perfectly into the 4WD control computer:
20110509-IMG_8501.jpg~original


The following photo is the gutted harness from my donor vehicle. You can see the plug that runs into the 4WD control computer, the e-locker switch, and the computer itself.
20110509-IMG_8505.jpg~original


Here is a comparison of the two plugs:
20110509-IMG_8504.jpg~original

(They are rotated opposite, sorry)

As per the article posted above, I tried plugging in the 4WD control computer and the e-locker switch, engaged the truck in 4LO and tried to see if the "RR Diff Lock" light would illuminate in my cluster, it did not. It appears that the black plug has less wiring coming out of it than the "pre-wired" plug that was found under the dash in the article above.

I am just trying to find out where I stand. What is the black plug for, if not for the locker? Is my 4Runner only "pre-wired" for the e-locker switch? is this common among all 3rd gens?

FYI: my original thought was that I would simply pull the entire harness out of my donor vehicle and put it in my 98 4runner. This however, will be VERY difficult as the harness for the e-locker is intertwined into pretty much everything else under the dash. I would need to pretty much swap the entire wiring harness, and im NOT about to do that. I would do the 12V setup but dont want to spend a dollar more on this project if I can help it!
 
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If you have the plug for the switch, you probably have the plug for the ecm. I think that you are using the wrong plug. You need to remove the drivers kick panel, and there you will find a plug that has been taped up to a wire harness. Plug the box in and see if the diff light will come on.
 
Singtoe said:
If you have the plug for the switch, you probably have the plug for the ecm. I think that you are using the wrong plug. You need to remove the drivers kick panel, and there you will find a plug that has been taped up to a wire harness. Plug the box in and see if the diff light will come on.
Click to expand...

Yah, I pulled the kick panel and found nothing of the sort.....
 
rickashay said:
Yah, I pulled the kick panel and found nothing of the sort.....
Click to expand...

Sorry bud, bad luck. Well you have the switch and the harness. It would be easy enough to make your self a subharness to get you going.

These are the 10 wires that come out of the Elocker ECM

Pin 1 to the diff light in the instrument cluster and to the "locked" switch in the elocker. (supplies ground signal when activated)
Pin 2 goes to the light green and red wire on the elocker.
Pin 3 goes to the light green wire on the elocker.
Pin 4 is the switch circuit. Must have a switch wire supplying +12 volts.
Pin 5 is +12 (original wiring had 20 amp fuse, so it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and install a fuse)
Pin 6 is goes to the light green with black stripe wire on the elocker.
Pin 7 goes to ground
Pin 8 is the 4wd low input from the transfer case. Ground this wire.
Pin 9 goes to light green and yellow wire on the elocker
Pin 10 is the speed sensor. Ground the VSS (speed) wire.

Other wires needed would be a ground going to the black and white wires on the elocker and +12 (10 amp fused) going to the other side of the RR DIFF switch.

Pretty easy.
 
I went through this not too long ago and swapped in a complete '97 elocker axle. I had no 'pre-wiring'. Singtoe is correct though, it's not all really that hard if you wanna keep your computer and button.

Another option would be, unless you really want the factory button and computer I would just suggest doing a wire retrofit and ridding of them both. It's fairly easy and you wont have to do the grey wire mod later. The locker will be fully independent. This is the route I took. PM me if you want some details and a list of items you would need.
 
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ARKRWLR said:
Another option would be, unless you really want the factory button and computer I would just suggest doing a wire retrofit and ridding of them both. It's fairly easy and you wont have to do the grey wire mod later. The locker will be fully independent. This is the route I took. PM me if you want some details and a list of items you would need.
Click to expand...

Are you talking about the dual relay standalone method?

And thanks for the info Singtoe!!
 
ARKRWLR said:
I went through this not too long ago and swapped in a complete '97 elocker axle. I had no 'pre-wiring'. Singtoe is correct though, it's not all really that hard if you wanna keep your computer and button.

Another option would be, unless you really want the factory button and computer I would just suggest doing a wire retrofit and ridding of them both. It's fairly easy and you wont have to do the grey wire mod later. The locker will be fully independent. This is the route I took. PM me if you want some details and a list of items you would need.
Click to expand...

That would be awesome if you could post up. I'm just beginning my journey of gathering information to add this to my 3rd gen.
 
1) DPDT Momentary switch body Click

2) "Rear Locker" Switch lens of your choice color. Can be found on that same site left side under the "CARLING TECH CONTURA ROCKERS/ACTUATORS ONLY" styles.
Blue
Red

3) Some kind of cable that is 18 gauge at least. You can make 3 runs of 2 conductor or one single run of 6 conductor. 18-6 is a little harder to come by than 18-2 and more expensive. You could maybe find a commercial or residential alarm company and see if they have some you can snag. I don't know if home depot or a hardware store will have any 18-6.

3) Wire loom and zip ties to run the cable in under the truck.

4) You'll want to solder your cable to the wires off the plug of the elocker as well as use some shrink wrap to melt around the solder to secure it. Make sure you write down what color wire goes to what from the plug cus you will need this during installment of the switch. You DO NOT need any other kind of elocker harness other than the harness that plugs into the elocker motor itself. It should have 6 or 7 (I can't remember) wires coming out of it.

5) A few crimp on female connectors to connect cabling to switch.

6) You'll need this
elec_locker_wiring2.gif


and

7) it might help to know this as well
elockerwiring.jpg~original


I need to find my dang notebook I wrote all my color coding in. It would help out. Once I find it I'll finalize this write up. Here's another link that would be helpful if read 4x4Wire Elec Locker
 
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ARKRWLR said:
Yes, pretty much. You wont have to deal with any resistors or fuses and will only have one switch to do all the work.

An another note, I found my notebook and I will whip up a color code diagram when I get off work. I'll prob start a new thread when I do.
Click to expand...

Ok, that would be great! I haven't seen this method before but its awesome cause you dont have to use any relays, just the switch. Sweet I may be going this route.
 
I plan on swapping the e-locker axle and front diff out of my 2000 into my '98. I need both to be completely functional when done. Would it be possible to just swap the harnesses? Or would that cause the push button 4w-hi on the 2000 to not function properly?
 
Didn't realize the first pic was the pin out of the 8 pin connector, deleted the post so it doesn't have wrong info in it.

No rush here on the diagram. I dont even have the axle under it yet :)

Thank you tons in advance tho!!!
 
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no.. that 1st diagram is only for a knowledge basis of knowing what color does what. In no way do both those diagrams correspond with each other. I'm working on the wiring write up but I'm trying to get pics and all my ducks in a row before I post it. I might go ahead and post it now, and worry bout more pics later.
 
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rickashay said:
Ok, that would be great! I haven't seen this method before but its awesome cause you dont have to use any relays, just the switch. Sweet I may be going this route.
Click to expand...

You really should use relays. The elocker limit switches weren't really designed to handle the high current load of the locker motor. It will work for a while but once the contacts get burnt up in the limit switches, it will fail to work. Then you will have to buy or rebuild the elocker solenoid.

If you already have the switch and ecm, you should go the extra step and wire them up. The ecm is really just a relay bank with a brain - It makes sure you don't engage the locker when your not supposed to.
 
Singtoe said:
You really should use relays. The elocker limit switches weren't really designed to handle the high current load of the locker motor. It will work for a while but once the contacts get burnt up in the limit switches, it will fail to work. Then you will have to buy or rebuild the elocker solenoid.

If you already have the switch and ecm, you should go the extra step and wire them up. The ecm is really just a relay bank with a brain - It makes sure you don't engage the locker when your not supposed to.
Click to expand...

this is not necessarily true.. the DPDT switch is a momentary switch. The only thing you might would want to consider is a fuse in between the power wire from the switch to the battery.

Read through this thread...
http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyot...estions-moments-after-asking-them-thread.html POST 12 & 19


In my defense, I've had a buddy use this wiring method for many years on his rear elocker and his front elocker from his SAC toyota axle. He's never had any issues with it.
 
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ARKRWLR said:
this is not necessarily true.. the DPDT switch is a momentary switch. The only thing you might would want to consider is a fuse in between the power wire from the switch to the battery.

Read through this thread...
E-locker limit switch, where I answer my questions moments after asking them thread POST 12 & 19


In my defense, I've had a buddy use this wiring method for many years on his rear elocker and his front elocker from his SAC toyota axle. He's never had any issues with it.
Click to expand...

I also have known people who have gone many years with out changing the oil in the car and never had any issues with it. Would I recommend it. Nope.

It is what is. I read the post you linked and it did not mention anything about burnt contacts. The question is - Why not use a $5 part to help protect a $300 e-locker solenoid from crapping out?

Every motor in the 4runner is on a relay type circuit. Look how many times the starter relay craps out because of burnt contacts.

But each is to their own.


On a another note, what happens when you don't fully disengage the locker? I mean, if you use the DPDT switch and let off once the light goes out, the e-locker solenoid might only be half way disengaged. This could lead the a situation where the locker collar might be partially engaged with the teeth of the diff. If you go around a turn, and the locker has to differentiate, it could break of those partially engaged teeth.

The OP has the factory switch and ecu. It would be beneficial for him to use them.
 
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