How to: access and remove the subwoofer

[dannyg]

I wanted to replace my blown factory sub and couldn't find any instructions to removing the panel covering the sub and amp. It was a lot of trial and error but I took some pics along the way to make it easy for whoever else wants to do this.

You're going to need a flat head and philips screw driver, 14mm or 9/16 socket and 10mm socket, torx screw driver OR 7/64 allen key.

Start by removing the cover and unbolting the rear right seat belt where it bolts to the floor using the 9/16 socket.

Now, using a flathead pop off the foot panel that is right there.

Take the philips head screw driver and unscrew the panel going across the very back of the cargo area.

Lift the panel to expose another screw that needs to be removed.

Unbolt the 10mm bolt in this little notch for the double decker cargo shelf.

Open the compartment to reveal another 10mm bolt to be removed.

pull back the carpet underneath the storage compartment to reveal 2 screws to take out.

remove star cargo net hook by pulling on the edge with your fingers, it will pop out.

Now start pulling from that same opening, but don't pull it all the way out.

 

[dannyg]

Use the flathead to move aside the striping along the right rear door. Pop out the clips ( i think there were 3) holding the panel to the car. Don't just pull out the panel, these clips will break, use the screw driver to push down and get around the lip they're holding onto.

Now pull this side of the panel up from the bottom

Pull around all the edges to unclip the panel, and it should come free pretty easily.

make sure to disconnect the 12v power connection before pulling the panel all the way out.

Took me about an hour, but with a walkthrough like this it shouldn't take more than 20-30min.

The sub is held in place by 6 torx bolts. A 7/64 allen key worked though, i didnt have a torx driver.

Enjoy.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Thanks for posting this for future reference. If you don't care, I'm going to add this to my write-up. There was a similar write-up hosted on a website, but that website isn't available anymore.

 

[stanleybb50]

For some this might sound like a stupid question (currently shopping here).... but this is only on the limited - right? Wonder id the wiring is already there on the SR5? So with after-marker radio, could be easy hook up?

Excellent write up for sure.

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk

 

[dannyg]

Ya go ahead, your write up made inspired me to do this project anyway.

And i'm not sure about the sr5, i think the jbl system is still an option on it, so it would be the same as this if it has it.

 

[Steel409]

dannyg,

Awesome write up. The subwoofer on my '03 Limited just 'went' as well. What subwoofer did you find as a replacement? The Stealership quoted me $488 for the sub/box/amp combination, but I'd like to plug and play with a similar aftermarket speaker if possible as I'd prefer not to add a new amp, wiring, head unit, etc. etc. etc. Would like to keep it as stock as possible!

 

[dannyg]

dannyg,

Awesome write up. The subwoofer on my '03 Limited just 'went' as well. What subwoofer did you find as a replacement? The Stealership quoted me $488 for the sub/box/amp combination, but I'd like to plug and play with a similar aftermarket speaker if possible as I'd prefer not to add a new amp, wiring, head unit, etc. etc. etc. Would like to keep it as stock as possible!

I went with aftermarket sub and amp. I got an 8" polk audio mm840 svc sub. And a boston acoustics gta 400.1 amp. the system is 250 watt rms. I had to wire the amp under the passenger seat, splice into the factory speaker wires for signal, and put the sub in the stock location.

you don't have to get a new head unit to do this, i didn't. Basically the whole setup was about $230. It takes some time to hook everything up, but it was definitely worth it. It sounds much better, and there is more than enough bass. I think the stock replacement sub is more than $200 anyway, and its not very good. i'm not sure that there are many subs out there that you can just plug into and go. if you find one, the stock amp has so little output that it won't play at its full potential.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I run a similar setup, well worth the cost. Link is in my sig for more info.

 

[Steel409]

Gents,

Thanks very much for the responses. Much appreciated!

Any chance either of you put together a wiring diagram for the mod? I have no problem with modifying/fixing the mechanicals of my 4Runner, but I struggle when it comes to wiring. How did you know which wires to splice in to? Or how to wire the sub through the woofer box into the amp?

Thanks again!

 

[gaterose]

Just wanted to add this about the "star hook/clip things" to make sure everyone is aware. It seems I keep seeing people breaking these or scratching stuff prying em out, and just having problems with them in general. I haven't seen a picture like this explaining how they work anywhere on the forum so here ya go.

It's like an anchor that is two pieces. The top/star piece slides out to make the other piece not grab

edit: on my 4r these pull out pretty easily using just my fingertips grabbing the outside edges of the star, I've never used a screwdriver, pliers, or any tool to pull them.

 

[gaterose]

..a wiring diagram for the mod? I have no problem with modifying/fixing the mechanicals of my 4Runner, but I struggle when it comes to wiring. How did you know which wires to splice in to? Or how to wire the sub through the woofer box into the amp?..

You have to buy an amp wiring kit which usually comes with a diagram. It is just:
Power - battery-fuse-wire to amp (the amp wiring kit)
Ground - to grounding bolt under the back seat
Remote - tap anything that's only hot when the car is turned on like the cigarette power outlets or if you're picky tap into a wire on the JBL amp that is only powered when the JBL amp is on. I think it is the white wire w/ blue stripe on the amp connector.
Sub - speaker outputs on amp into JBL box to sub

I ran my speaker wire through the same rubber grommet that the JBL speaker wire ran through.

 

[noshortcuts]

Thank you...

I'm doing a set up similar to Ark Swamp's on my 06' Limited and this helped me prep the car quickly.

I've already installed the Pioneer deh-80prs head unit. There was nothing wrong with my JBL synthesis unit but the Pioneer adds some wanted features (for me mainly bluetooth phone calls and high quality DACs that bypass my Ipod's DAC).

Now I'm upgrading the subwoofer and going with:

• Alpine MRV-M500 Mono subwoofer amplifier - 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
• Alpine RUX-KNOB Remote Bass Level Control Knob for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6
• 8W1V2-4 - JL Audio 8" Single 4-Ohm Car Subwoofer
• KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit

If I'm not in music nirvana after this, I'll likely do the rest of the speakers too. But I hope this is the end for now.

 

[lambohaha]

I used this to install the "amp bypass" harness supplied by Crutchfield and I gotta say .. WOW! Thanks for the amazing write up. Hope fully tomorrow I'll be installing the head unit but for now I wanted to get a head start by running the harness from the JBL amp to the front of the T4R. I laid it in the clips in the channel with the rest of the vehicles wiring from the rear to the front and then behind the passenger kick panel and at the moment they are resting in the glove box until I can connect to the receiver.

 

[CookieRoe]

thumbs up!

Wow, never saw this write-up. Looks great. Gotta do this when the weather turns nice. I have to get to the amp and splice into some wires or possibly replace the damn thing. (long story: I still haven't fully enabled the voice nav on mine and I swear the side speakers cut out from time to time).

 

[rlock8]

Sub Woofer Replacement

Use the flathead to move aside the striping along the right rear door. Pop out the clips ( i think there were 3) holding the panel to the car. Don't just pull out the panel, these clips will break, use the screw driver to push down and get around the lip they're holding onto.

Now pull this side of the panel up from the bottom

Pull around all the edges to unclip the panel, and it should come free pretty easily.

make sure to disconnect the 12v power connection before pulling the panel all the way out.

Took me about an hour, but with a walkthrough like this it shouldn't take more than 20-30min.

The sub is held in place by 6 torx bolts. A 7/64 allen key worked though, i didnt have a torx driver.

Enjoy.

Thanks for posting. This saved me a lot of time.

 

[Flyhighdp]

Does anyone know of or have a factory JBL sub to replace a '06 rear sub?? Looking for the same oem replacement without having to do the sub/amp upgrade presently. Thanks

 

[snowboardwcu]

thanks for the writeup. made today much easier :whoo:

 

[jtatooz]

So VERY helpful but...

That write-up was amazingly helpful. Wish I had read that before I broke all of those star tabs.
My question is, how do you get the sub out of that plastic box? My daughter just got an '03 Sport Edition and two of the speakers are shot.
My '97 has an entire aftermarket system in it and that was really easy. This one, i'm ready to take a torch to it!
I got the sub out but the plastic box looks like a sealed unit. I tried getting the sub out of there but that sucker is in there tight.

Did you replace the whole thing or did you remove the sub and put a new one in it? If so, how in the world did you get it out?

Thanks, in advance, for any help that can be given.

 

[kiwiyoda]

I got the sub out but the plastic box looks like a sealed unit. I tried getting the sub out of there but that sucker is in there tight.

Did you replace the whole thing or did you remove the sub and put a new one in it? If so, how in the world did you get it out?

Thanks, in advance, for any help that can be given.

I just did mine in an 03, and had the same issue. After taking the screws out that attached the sub to the plastic box, it was still stuck fast. Ended up ripping out the cone of the sub to get a better grip, then just pulling and gently prying until it eventually popped out.

 

[jtatooz]

I just did mine in an 03, and had the same issue. After taking the screws out that attached the sub to the plastic box, it was still stuck fast. Ended up ripping out the cone of the sub to get a better grip, then just pulling and gently prying until it eventually popped out.

That's pretty much what I figured I would have to do.
Did you put your aftermarket speaker in that plastic box?