How to: access and remove the subwoofer

[kiwiyoda]

That's pretty much what I figured I would have to do.
Did you put your aftermarket speaker in that plastic box?

I sure did.

I used this sub as recommended on some other thread here as its a direct plug and play with the existing amp and fits into the plastic sub box well.

The only thing I found was that the mounting screw holes did not align perfectly with the existing mounting holes around the perimeter of the plastic box. So I lined up the ones that I could (I think two of them lined up to existing holes), and just drove the screws through the plastic where they did not align. I reused the foam ring that went between the speaker and the plastic outer grill trim, but I don't know if it was necessary.

Works well!

Edit -Someone has posted a picture of this in place http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/207875-blown-jbl-sub-options-2.html

 

[jtatooz]

EXCELLENT!!!
Thank you!
I did get the sub out. The door speaker was MUCH easier and I didn't break anything!
I need to look on eBay for the plastic clips that go in her rear panel though...I broke a lot of those :embarassed:

 

[dchild]

I also ended up destroying what was left of my sub when I took it out, and the holes did not fit my new sub. I have two suggestions for installing the new sub in the old enclosure if you haven't yet:

Use speed nuts to make the new mounts more secure. I just rotated my new one a little bit and drilled all new holes.

Stuff the enclosure with polyfill/batting to deaden the backwave. Batting is the fluffy white material that goes inside pillows or stuffed animals and is a couple of dollars per bag anywhere that sells fabric (incl. walmart). Tease it with your hands to loosen it up, and aim for 50-75% fill.

 

[4RunnerFundi]

Need help... I'm confused.
All I want to do is change out the subwoofer in my 2006 Sport JBL 4Runner. Spoke to Crutchfield for the easiest solution and I ordered the Rockford Fosgate and was told it would be a simple "plug & play" no amp replaced & with the greatest potential difficulty drilling 4 new holes if the holes did not line up... with that said I thought all I would have to do is remove this panel and not have to pullout the rear corner interior... am I wrong? How do I remove just this one panel without having to pull apart the interior corner.... Thanks!

 

[4RunnerFundi]

The above photo I pulled from this site, my truck looks the same only I don't know how to get that panel off without damaging it... Appreciate any help!

 

[yosh2000]

Did you look about 10 posts up?!! All the info is here in this thread and the other one you posted the exact same thing in.

 

[4RunnerFundi]

I don't think you read my post or looked at the photo... I am asking how to get the panel off in the photograph without having to pull out the entire rear corner paneling???

 

[yosh2000]

i read your post and looked at your photo in both threads you posted the exact same question/photo.

your initial questions, "with that said I thought all I would have to do is remove this panel and not have to pullout the rear corner interior... am I wrong? How do I remove just this one panel without having to pull apart the interior corner.... Thanks! "

you thought wrong, you need to pull the entire rear side paneling to remove the sub. the sub cover is integrated into the side panel via spot welds.

your follow up question "I don't know how to get that panel off without damaging it". my reply directly addressed this question and told you how to take the panel off without damaging it.

could be you didnt read the entire thread or look at the pictures posted and reposted due to guys quoting before posting your question...the answers are already in this thread...

 

[4RunnerFundi]

Just reread this post from beginning to end "again" and no it does not say anywhere that you cannot remove just the center panel, but now that you so kindly explained that to me I know now.

 

[brahbean]

My sub is blown out in my 07 4Runner sport. Is there any need to change out the amp with the sub? Or can I get away with changing out the sub only?

Thanks in advance!

 

[dchild]

Is there any need to change out the amp with the sub? Or can I get away with changing out the sub only?

If you replace it with an identical sub, no need for an amp. If you use a different sub with the same configuration (2 ohm, dual voice coil) it will work but would sound better with a dedicated amp. If you get any other sub you will need an amp.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

My sub is blown out in my 07 4Runner sport. Is there any need to change out the amp with the sub? Or can I get away with changing out the sub only?

Thanks in advance!

If it's just the sub and the amp is functional, you don't need to replace it

 

[knowhutimean]

Thanks used this yesterday to replace my blown factory sub

 

[jamr212]

Thanks

Great write up. I used this to replace my blown JBL sub with the
Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8" Dual 2-Ohm Punch Series Shallow Mount. I will eventually add an amp. It sounds about the same. Maybe a little more punch, but negligible.

The only problem I ran into was the star cargo net hook. There may be a better way then just yanking it out, but I had to put a rag around the cargo hook and yank with an adjustable wrench. It came out with a lot of force and wasn't broken.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[simonaillery]

Wow, Excellent write up !! So much better than the black and white instructions sent by Crutchfield, explaining how to remove the panel covering the sub and amp.

I have one question, as you know precisely how the panel is designed :

I am trying to remove this small tool box only
(in order to fit my parking sensor system in it, with a small hole and a rubber grommet to route the wires properly to the rear of my 4runner... great idea, isn't it ?

=> I wonder if I have to remove the whole pannel, or if the small tool box can just pop off, once you unscrewd the bolt.

 

[howat]

Did this today. Everything went as planned outside of the double decker cargo system and wiring. 4 bolts need to be removed for the cargo system to be removed. Additionally, after I unplugged the two plugs (4 wires) from the oem subwoofer, had to splice and expose the 4 wires so they can each be plugged into the 4 slots of the subwoofer. The sub has 4 slots, 2 black and 2 red. I guesstimated by placing the red wire into the red slot (yellow wire in the black slot, on the same side), while the black wire into the black slot (green wire in the red slot, on the same side).

The subwoofer I purchased is the Rockford fosgate recommended from this thread.

I am not the most mechanically proficient, so, the entire job took me around 2 + hours.

Without the tutorial, however, surely would of gone beyond 4 hours!

Use the flathead to move aside the striping along the right rear door. Pop out the clips ( i think there were 3) holding the panel to the car. Don't just pull out the panel, these clips will break, use the screw driver to push down and get around the lip they're holding onto.

Now pull this side of the panel up from the bottom

Pull around all the edges to unclip the panel, and it should come free pretty easily.

make sure to disconnect the 12v power connection before pulling the panel all the way out.

Took me about an hour, but with a walkthrough like this it shouldn't take more than 20-30min.

The sub is held in place by 6 torx bolts. A 7/64 allen key worked though, i didnt have a torx driver.

Enjoy.

 

[Daemoro]

The wiring is holding me up here. I also purchased the shallow mount Rockford Fosgate recommended here.

I have 4 wires. The two connected to the top of the stock speaker were Red(+) and Yellow (-), The bottom two were Green (+) and Black (-).

I tried making sense of the wiring diagram but it only shows option for two wires coming into the speaker. I have 4. There are 4 connectors on the speaker.

I have no idea which wires go where.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[howat]

Exactly what I faced earlier.

I spliced all 4 wires, thus separating them from the two connectors. The Red and Yellow, went into one side of the sub, where the red wire went into the red hole while the yellow wire went into the black hole. Similarly (for the other side), green wire went into the red hole while the black wire went into the black hole. That was my attempt to 'guesstmate', and it appears to be "booming" after the install.

Hope that helps. And please ping me if there any follow-on questions.

The wiring is holding me up here. I also purchased the shallow mount Rockford Fosgate recommended here.

I have 4 wires. The two connected to the top of the stock speaker were Red(+) and Yellow (-), The bottom two were Green (+) and Black (-).

I tried making sense of the wiring diagram but it only shows option for two wires coming into the speaker. I have 4. There are 4 connectors on the speaker.

I have no idea which wires go where.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Daemoro]

Ok thanks. I thought that's what you meant. I tried it but it didn't work the first time... maybe I will go try to swap sides and see if that works.

 

[howat]

It should work, regardless of which side, given it's just (+) and (-); indicating the connections are non-directional specific. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

If anything, please ensure the spliced wires are inserted as deeply (into the hole) as possible.

Ok thanks. I thought that's what you meant. I tried it but it didn't work the first time... maybe I will go try to swap sides and see if that works.