I usually dont just ask random questions on here but here goes. Haters can just hate. I just installed a dobinsons 3in long travel in the rear of my 16 sr5 and at full droop my brake lines are maxed out. I got the metal tech brake line kit but for the life of me i cant find any instructions. Im pretty sure i just unbolt the old lines and then replace with the new. How do i bleed the brakes to remove the air. Any help would be great thanks.
How to bleed brakes
- Thread starter 24poepoe
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My wife can help me but honestly im ignorant when it comes to brakes.
joshoowa
New member
So find some clear vinyl hose that will fit over the bleeder nipple. You need clear to make sure you see the fluid coming out of the bleeder bolt on the caliper. Use a wrench to loosen the bleeder bolt just enough to allow the brake fluid to come out while you have someone else press the brake pedal. Have your car key in ignition and have it turned all the way but don’t have the engine running just on to allow the master brake cylinder to be on running. While someone is pressing brake pedal, open the bleeder bolt and watch the fluid come out retighten the bolt when you see a solid stream of fluid no bubbles. Check brake fluid resovoir and refill after each caliper don’t let it run dry.
03_4x4Runner
Senior Member
On my 4th gen I regularly changed the brake fluid. I have not done this on my 5th gen yet. On my 4th gen to bleed the rear brakes without any special bleeding equipment I had to turn the key on. With a hose on the bleeder going into a container all I had to do was open the bleeder and the fluid came out in a nice stream. I did each rear line till the fluid was clear. Do not let the reservoir run dry. I could not bleed the rear brakes at all the conventional way below. The front brakes I had to bleed the conventional way with someone pushing the pedal then opening the bleeder then tightening the bleeder and release the pedal. Repeat as many times as necessary till the fluid is clear.
Can anyone confirm if the 5th gen works this way as I would like to change my brake fluid.
Can anyone confirm if the 5th gen works this way as I would like to change my brake fluid.
EddieV4runnin
New member
Google gravity bleeding brakes. It’s the most time consuming but it’s also the simplest and you can do it yourself.
flyrv9
New member
The easy answer is to leave this job for the experts. Brake systems are not rocket science; but not for the inexperienced either. If you know of a good shop and a mechanic you trust - I would go that route. Sure you will save $ by doing it yourself - but there is a risk here if you screw it up - your call.
If you decide to go ahead - I would do it as follows:
First read up on what's involved and what tools and supplies you will need. Make sure you have a new supply of brake fluid of the right type for your vehicle. Brake fluid is nasty stuff. It will eat through paint and is not nice to some rubber and plastics - so if you spill it - you won't be happy.
I would take the top off the master cylinder (to reduce some of the pressure) and leave it off until you have changed the first line. Lock the truck so nobody can touch the brake pedal. replace the lines one at a time; starting with the one furthest away from the master cylinder. Change that line, fill the master cylinder and put the top back on, bleed that line and move on to the next furthest away and so on. Keep checking the fluid level so you NEVER run out.
Whatever procedure you use (a pressure bleeder or an assistant) never let the master cylinder reservoir run out of fluid. Make sure you wear eye protection and wash any brake fluid off your skin right away.
Before you start, take a good look at your wheels and brakes. Do you see any leaks, damage, dirt or corrosion on, in and around the fittings you will be dealing with. Do the fittings you will be taking apart require any washers, etc. Some brake systems use (one time use) crush washers or O rings. I'm not that familiar with 4Runner systems so that's where your research comes in. Also, some of those fittings may have to be torqued with a good quality torque wrench. Clean is the name of the game here. Get a piece of dirt in the system and you'll be chasing odd brake behavior problems.
This is a general idea of how to do this and not entirely specific. I suggest you thouroughly research this before jumping in. Good luck.
If you decide to go ahead - I would do it as follows:
First read up on what's involved and what tools and supplies you will need. Make sure you have a new supply of brake fluid of the right type for your vehicle. Brake fluid is nasty stuff. It will eat through paint and is not nice to some rubber and plastics - so if you spill it - you won't be happy.
I would take the top off the master cylinder (to reduce some of the pressure) and leave it off until you have changed the first line. Lock the truck so nobody can touch the brake pedal. replace the lines one at a time; starting with the one furthest away from the master cylinder. Change that line, fill the master cylinder and put the top back on, bleed that line and move on to the next furthest away and so on. Keep checking the fluid level so you NEVER run out.
Whatever procedure you use (a pressure bleeder or an assistant) never let the master cylinder reservoir run out of fluid. Make sure you wear eye protection and wash any brake fluid off your skin right away.
Before you start, take a good look at your wheels and brakes. Do you see any leaks, damage, dirt or corrosion on, in and around the fittings you will be dealing with. Do the fittings you will be taking apart require any washers, etc. Some brake systems use (one time use) crush washers or O rings. I'm not that familiar with 4Runner systems so that's where your research comes in. Also, some of those fittings may have to be torqued with a good quality torque wrench. Clean is the name of the game here. Get a piece of dirt in the system and you'll be chasing odd brake behavior problems.
This is a general idea of how to do this and not entirely specific. I suggest you thouroughly research this before jumping in. Good luck.
Pathfinder!
New member
Speed bleeders make it pretty simple for a first timer, they just cost a little extra. Just don't get any brake fluid on your paint and try to keep it off your skin.
Bleeding process is very simple in these trucks with two people. The brake booster will pump fluid out at the rear brakes so you don't have to do the traditional up/down of the pedal. It pumps quite quickly, make sure you don't run the reservoir below the minimum line.
You'll want:
Brake fluid
10mm flare wrench for the brake lines
8mm flare for the bleed screw? Might be 10mm also
A clear piece of tubing that fits over the bleed nipple and a water bottle to catch the old fluid.
A screwdriver and needle nose pliers to get the metal clips holding the lines off
A little rubber cap or something to keep fluid from dripping out everywhere when disconnecting the lines. I think i used the cap that covers the bleed nipple.
Nitrile gloves
Eye protection
Be careful with brake fluid, avoid contact with your skin and don't let it touch the paint.
Disconnect the top brake line and attach rubber cap. Then disconnect the bottom of the line. I cant remember exactly how you get them off, but you'll see they're held on by metal clips. Mine were a real pain to get off. You'll want to pry those with a screwdriver. You'll see when you get under there. I think i removed the bracket that holds them in place to get them off. Attach new lines. You might need to attach them to the bracket first depending on how hard the clips are to get on or off. Don't over torque the brake lines when reattaching.
Once the new lines are on attach your clear tubing to the bleed nipple and have the other end in a water bottle or something to catch the fluid. Have your helper get in the car and turn the key to the on position. Start at the passenger rear. Your assistant will push down the pedal as you loosen the bleeder screw. Don't push the pedal all the way to the floor. Half way should be good enough to activate the pump. You don't need to loosen the bleeder screw much, half turn should be plenty. You'll hear the pump activate and fluid will come out. Let it flow until you don't see any bubbles. Tighten the bleeder and then release the brakes. Top off the reservoir. Switch to drivers rear and repeat.
The front brakes will not pump fluid automatically for you. You'll have to have the assistant pump the brakes. Start at the front passenger. Depress brake pedal (not to the floor) and loosen bleed screw. When fluid begins to stop flowing tighten screw. Release brake and do it over again until no air comes out. This might take a few times. Repeat on drivers front.
Top off fluid in reservoir. Clean up any spilled brake fluid. Done.
Jeremy556
New member
Harbor Freight Pneumatic Bleeder for $34 is the way to go.
It has a gravity fed bottle to keep the reservoir full while your air compressor powers the vacuum bleeder. Super fast, easy 1 person job. Just crack the bleed screw and pull the trigger
Positive pressure bleeders that pressurize the reservoir are better still, but I don't know of any that are anywhere near the HF price point.
It has a gravity fed bottle to keep the reservoir full while your air compressor powers the vacuum bleeder. Super fast, easy 1 person job. Just crack the bleed screw and pull the trigger
Positive pressure bleeders that pressurize the reservoir are better still, but I don't know of any that are anywhere near the HF price point.
kenwilliams0803
New member
I use a Motive Power Bleeder. Though I have not used one on the 4Runner yet.
It has made the job super easy on all the other cars. If I recall correctly it's under $100. I use it just for the pressure and do not put fluid into it in order to simplify cleanup.
Just refill the master after every corner. The key is making sure you have the right cap attachment for the master cylinder you are working on.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
It has made the job super easy on all the other cars. If I recall correctly it's under $100. I use it just for the pressure and do not put fluid into it in order to simplify cleanup.
Just refill the master after every corner. The key is making sure you have the right cap attachment for the master cylinder you are working on.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Do you need to leave the ignition turned to on when bleeding the front also, even though the pump doesn't help with the front?
03_4x4Runner
Senior Member
No, only for the rear.
I had the ignition on the ON position for all 4 wheels. The pump makes it so easy that my 3 year old was able to pump and hold the pedal down on the final pump before i closed the bleeder.
I'm done w/ those Motiv bleeder bottles. They make more of a mess than theyre worth.
BobsTrail
Senior Member
I have one, but it's a mess to disconnect. I liked the idea of using it just for the pressure, but would still have to remove it a few times to check the fluid level. I'm tempted to try one of these at the bleeder screws and maybe to remove some of the old dirty fluid near the bottom of the master cylinder instead of pushing it through.
Attachments
Speedracer
New member
Have wife sit in driver seat.
Roll down windows.
Tell wife to pump the brake pedal and tell her to dont stop til its hard
Once its hard, tell her to keep pushing on pedal.
You loosen bleeder valve and tell wife to follow pedal to the floor with foot and dont put til you tell her to.
Repeat multiple times on each side til it comes out and you dont hear any squirting sounds
Roll down windows.
Tell wife to pump the brake pedal and tell her to dont stop til its hard
Once its hard, tell her to keep pushing on pedal.
You loosen bleeder valve and tell wife to follow pedal to the floor with foot and dont put til you tell her to.
Repeat multiple times on each side til it comes out and you dont hear any squirting sounds
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