How To: BudBuilt Auxiliary Battery Tray Installation

eddiebx

New member


This installation is pretty straight forward so this thread is mainly going to be a picture tutorial, just to show you guys where everything goes.

Cliff Notes:
-No cutting required and direct bolt-on for 2010-2012 models.
-100% reversible.
-Must bend A/C hard line down about 1/2-3/4" for better fitment.
-Will NOT work on 2013+ models, unless you figure out how to relocate the smog pump in front of the intake box.
-Fits batteries up to ~10.375" x ~6.875" footprint.
-Very beefy, lol.

Step 1:
Remove the two bolts below and separate the rubber isolator from the smaller bracket and set it aside (you will need the rubber isloator and the accompanying two nuts later on). Please be sure NOT to loosen the nut that holds the A/C hard line together!!! Freon will escape and this will become a very expensive battery tray install, lol.


Step 2:
Now grab an angled pick or a small screw driver and pry this retainer clip to release the P/S reservoir from the bracket. Once you've separated it from the bracket, tie it off to the side and out of the way.


Step 3:
Now remove these three bolts and set aside the OEM P/S bracket.


Step 4:
Here's the clean canvas we will be working with. If you're anal like me, you will clean the surface even though no one can see it once the tray is installed.


Step 5:
Now one small caveat here is that, due to how the A/C hard line sits between the two tray halves, you will need to decide if you want to bend the line downwards to meet the lower tray half; or space the lower tray half upwards to meet the A/C hard line. The 16mm socket is placed there to emphasis the approximate gap you have once the tray is bolted directly to the chassis.


Since bending it down is a no brainer, I tried out the spacing it upwards method so we can test the worst possible case scenario as far as hood clearance goes.

With the tray spaced up 3/4", I still have about a good 1" clearance between the top of my Group 35 battery post (there would be even more clearance if you guys use the shorter Group 34 batteries). Please note that with the tray spaced upwards, you will need to trim the J-hooks a tiny bit to clear the hood. So do that before you slam the hood down!

If you don't space the tray upwards, you can simply bend the A/C hard line downwards about 3/4". Since this hard line extends from back at the firewall, you have plenty of length to gradually bend it downwards (starting from the firewall end). Go slowly and you should be fine.

Step 6:
Depending on what you elected to do above, you might need longer bolts. I found that with the tray spaced 3/4" upwards I needed 35mm length bolts (8x1.25mm thread pitch). Grab whatever you need and bolt the tray to the chassis and then bolt the rubber isolator to the tray and the A/C hard line using the original nuts.


Step 7:
Once that's done, you can drop the top half of the tray on to the bottom half and place the P/S reservoir into the mount. Now make sure the P/S reservoir is firmly in place and double check to see that the A/C hard line is not interfering with it. Once that all checks out, bend the little tab at the top of the P/S bracket towards the right in order to lock the P/S reservoir down.


Step 8:
Drop the battery of your choice in, attach the tie down bracket, check the hood clearance at the J-hooks and the battery posts, and you're done!



All in all a pretty straight forward installation and well thought out tray IMO. I hope this thread will be helpful to you guys that are considering this mod.

Keep in mind, while this should be pretty much a straight bolt-on affair for us 2010-2012 4runners...you 2013+ guys are going to need to figure something out as far as relocating the smog pump :ohwell:

If you guys have any questions, please feel free to ask and I'll try my best to answer them. Also, please don't ask me for more pictures because I took it all back out, lol. It's waaaay to told cold out for me to mess with this and run all my wiring so I will just put it all back in once I am ready. I only installed it temporarily to confirm the fitment for you guys before you guys take the plunge and order :cheers:
 
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Keep in mind, while this should be pretty much a straight bolt-on affair for us 2010-2012 4runners...you 2013+ guys are going to need to figure something out as far as relocating the smog pump :ohwell:

Very good Eddie! You might want to tell everyone what model years this mod is for. Otherwise great job!

:gossip:

Time to put on the reading glasses, lol. :jk: will edit posts to make it more clear :)
 
[MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION]

VERY NICE writeup! I know how long it takes to do this so great job!

I do, however, have some concerns.

Per T4R.ORG rules:

1- At least half of your pictures are required to be out of focus so you failed miserably here.

2- The fancy red lettering is NOT allowed. Sorry.

:nicethread:
 
bb_6_zps10469eda.jpg~original
[/URL]

[MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION]: think that black mounting tab fastened to the AC line can just be snipped off/removed? (eliminating the need to either bend the lines or place spacers below the tray.) would the tray clear it if you just trimmed it off the AC hard line entirely? looks pretty close.
 
[MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION]: think that black mounting tab fastened to the AC line can just be snipped off/removed? (eliminating the need to either bend the lines or place spacers below the tray.) would the tray clear it if you just trimmed it off the AC hard line entirely? looks pretty close.

Well...if you snip it off you kind of defeat the purpose of this whole double layer tray design, lol.

But to answer your question, I'm pretty sure you need to keep that isolator mount because the A/C hard line would flop around too much w/o it and probably eventually snap off? The hard line starts at the firewall and is a solid pipe straight to the front of the engine bay, so there's lots of leverage at the mounting point. Probably not a good idea to remove it IMO...

Also, aside from that, you need to reduce the gap because if not, the A/C hard line won't clear the new P/S pump bracket. Pushing the line downwards makes it tuck right under the bottom of the bracket.
 
Well...if you snip it off you kind of defeat the purpose of this whole double layer tray design, lol.

But to answer your question, I'm pretty sure you need to keep that isolator mount because the A/C hard line would flop around too much w/o it and probably eventually snap off? The hard line starts at the firewall and is a solid pipe straight to the front of the engine bay, so there's lots of leverage at the mounting point. Probably not a good idea to remove it IMO...

Also, aside from that, you need to reduce the gap because if not, the A/C hard line won't clear the new P/S pump bracket. Pushing the line downwards makes it tuck right under the bottom of the bracket.
ha! i see what you're saying, but still don't see how snipping off the isolator mount would make it flop around any more than it already will; it's no longer secured to anything, is it?

that said, it seems like the tray was either meant to sit higher off the fender mounts (built-in spacers) or the drop-in tray should've sat higher to clear the lines—or both.

absent any included instructions, and seeing how you're the first with this tray, it's kinda guessing at Bud's intentions. maybe this isn't as it was designed to be; seems really well thought out otherwise. did you contact him?
 
Well...if you snip it off you kind of defeat the purpose of this whole double layer tray design, lol.

But to answer your question, I'm pretty sure you need to keep that isolator mount because the A/C hard line would flop around too much w/o it and probably eventually snap off? The hard line starts at the firewall and is a solid pipe straight to the front of the engine bay, so there's lots of leverage at the mounting point. Probably not a good idea to remove it IMO...

Also, aside from that, you need to reduce the gap because if not, the A/C hard line won't clear the new P/S pump bracket. Pushing the line downwards makes it tuck right under the bottom of the bracket.

Since the A/C line is connected to a compressor it will vibrate quite a bit. Without the isolator noise will be transmitted into the cabin through the metal surfaces it's attached to.

I, for one, DO NOT want yet another "What's that noise?" thread so for God's sake use the freakin' isolator!:crybaby:
 
ha! i see what you're saying, but still don't see how snipping off the isolator mount would make it flop around any more than it already will; it's no longer secured to anything, is it?

that said, it seems like the tray was either meant to sit higher off the fender mounts (built-in spacers) or the drop-in tray should've sat higher to clear the lines—or both.

absent any included instructions, and seeing how you're the first with this tray, it's kinda guessing at Bud's intentions. maybe this isn't as it was designed to be; seems really well thought out otherwise. did you contact him?

I think the pictures might not have been clear (must've been possessed by antman momentarily), but there's a hole for the isolator to bolt to the bottom tray (this way it is secured back like factory). Imagine the tray as just replacing that small bracket that attaches the isolator to the chassis.

I actually didn't guess as Bud's intentions, I confirmed with him that this was how he designed it, to bend down the line a bit and out of the way so everything clears okay. I only discovered the spacing upwards method myself, and naturally had to test it out, lol.
 
Hmm looks like I forgot to post clearer photos of the actual tray unmounted. [MENTION=29376]sandcrawler[/MENTION] hopefully you can see the hole I am talking about better here.





 
Hmm looks like I forgot to post clearer photos of the actual tray unmounted. [MENTION=29376]sandcrawler[/MENTION] hopefully you can see the hole I am talking about better here.
yep, i see it—and get it—now. oh well, at least the rest of the kids on the short bus got to go along for the ride with me.

these look like nice trays. and check all the right boxes:
- well designed ✔
- fair price ✔
- made in USA ✔

...you can throw a lot of shrimps on the barbie for the price of the ABR tray! :D

thanks for all your work on the writeup and for the clarifications, [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION].
 

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