How to connect two wires..?

[NViejeP]

Was rewiring my amp the other day and I accidently ripped the turn on lead wire. I was able to tape it back together but its about to literally fall out.

How would I go about connecting this better? I've heard of solder and crimping but I really don't know how. I do have a crimping tool.

Its a very very small wire, if I had a ballpark guess it would be 20 AWG or 22.

 

[viper4evr2001]

well i would say replace the whole wire. if your using the small of a wire! the lead turn on wire shouldnt be smaller then 16awg

 

[NViejeP]

Really now? For what reason? And how does it connect to the back of the head unit, is it a easy connection, I've never been to the back of the head unit before.

But for temporary purposes, how should I connect the wire?

 

[sketch1]

The easiest thing to do is to buy a crimp on wire connector , strip a clean section off the old wire, then get a new wire, cut to length and stip and clean both of those ends, take the old wire and the new and twist the newly stripped sections together, cover with the wire cap, and crimp. Then plug the wire back into the amp. That is a quick and permenant solution if done properly.

 

[NViejeP]

I get the idea. Problem is I don't know how to crimp lol. Anyone got a tutorial?

 

[sketch1]

Sure Here is a tutorial...

Twist Wires together
Place crimp connector over wires
Squeeze with pliers

 

[Uneek]

I get the idea. Problem is I don't know how to crimp lol. Anyone got a tutorial?

Place the connector (with the wires inside) between the crimp tool and close down on it as you would with a pliers. The crimp tool will crush down the metal sleeve inside the connector. Make sure you're using an insulated connector.

 

[Good Times]

pick up a soldering iron and solder it. This is the best solution to your problem. Visit your local radio shack shop and buy a soldering iron with the proper wires (ask the counter guy/gal).

then go online and do a quick search on "how to use a soldering iron".

crimp tools are good but those pieces can eventually fall apart and cause a short or any number of things. most never experience any problems but the soldering concept is the cleanest solution that makes it look like it didn't exist there. make sure to use some electrical tape or shrinkwrap plastic tubing to clean up the soldered area.

good luck

 

[Koz]

pick up a soldering iron and solder it. This is the best solution to your problem. Visit your local radio shack shop and buy a soldering iron with the proper wires (ask the counter guy/gal).

then go online and do a quick search on "how to use a soldering iron".

crimp tools are good but those pieces can eventually fall apart and cause a short or any number of things. most never experience any problems but the soldering concept is the cleanest solution that makes it look like it didn't exist there. make sure to use some electrical tape or shrinkwrap plastic tubing to clean up the soldered area.

good luck

:iagree: Use the shrink-tubing (a plastic cover that covers the soldered connection and then heated until it shrinks to the wires insulation.) You need to put the tubing on the wire before you solder, then slide the tubing over the connection and heat till it shrinks/seals.

Koz

 

[alpine0000]

man, you guys are killin the poor guy. i was a custom installer at auto sound electronics in springfield va for 5 years... you dont need to solder the wires of the remote turn on, and you sure dont need shrink tubing (we arent reconnecting wires under your hood here, or in any place where they will get wet. or, at least i hope it doesnt get wet in your trunk). SURE, if you want it to be pro and look really good for a competition or something, go ahead and take that extra step. but, in your case, the simple solution for you (since you dont sound like a techy guy and you just want an easy RELIABLE solution to get your amp working again) is go to radio shack, buy crimp caps or butt connectors, strip each end of the wire, and crimp it together. if you have a crimping tool, and you put it in your hand and you have the crimp caps on the wire, and you still cant figure out what your supposed to do with the crimping tool, maybe you should just take it to a shop and have them do it. because youd be too dangerous around wires if thats the case.

its so easy man. do it. you know you want to.

and you guys telling him to replace the entire wire... - "IF" its 22 guage, yes, it should be approx 16 guage. but if the guy doesnt even know how to crimp a wire, what makes you think he can replace the entire wire, which entails reconnecting a new wire behind the head unit. also, if he doesnt know how to crimp a wire, what makes you think his judgement that the wire size is 22 guage is even close to being correct. i believe at worst, the wire is 18 guage. youd be hard pressed to find 22 guage wire to use for car audio.

just crimp the wire back together with a cap. haha

and if for SOME REASON the wire IS 22 guage, then just take it to your local car stereo shop and have them replace it with a 16 guage wire. that doesnt sound like something your comfortable doing if you are unclear of even how to crimp a wirecap on.

and, i mean all of this in the nicest possible way too :biggrin2:

 

[Koz]

man, you guys are killin the poor guy. i was a custom installer at auto sound electronics in springfield va for 5 years... you dont need to solder the wires of the remote turn on, and you sure dont need shrink tubing (we arent reconnecting wires under your hood here, or in any place where they will get wet. or, at least i hope it doesnt get wet in your trunk). SURE, if you want it to be pro and look really good for a competition or something, go ahead and take that extra step. but, in your case, the simple solution for you (since you dont sound like a techy guy and you just want an easy RELIABLE solution to get your amp working again) is go to radio shack, buy crimp caps or butt connectors, strip each end of the wire, and crimp it together. if you have a crimping tool, and you put it in your hand and you have the crimp caps on the wire, and you still cant figure out what your supposed to do with the crimping tool, maybe you should just take it to a shop and have them do it. because youd be too dangerous around wires if thats the case.

its so easy man. do it. you know you want to.

and you guys telling him to replace the entire wire... - "IF" its 22 guage, yes, it should be approx 16 guage. but if the guy doesnt even know how to crimp a wire, what makes you think he can replace the entire wire, which entails reconnecting a new wire behind the head unit. also, if he doesnt know how to crimp a wire, what makes you think his judgement that the wire size is 22 guage is even close to being correct. i believe at worst, the wire is 18 guage. youd be hard pressed to find 22 guage wire to use for car audio.

just crimp the wire back together with a cap. haha

and if for SOME REASON the wire IS 22 guage, then just take it to your local car stereo shop and have them replace it with a 16 guage wire. that doesnt sound like something your comfortable doing if you are unclear of even how to crimp a wirecap on.

and, i mean all of this in the nicest possible way too :biggrin2:

The shrink tubing is overkill (but looks professional) but I totally disagree with using crimp connections. I have seen and experienced too many bad connections with crimped connections. Sure it's quick and easy (that's why installers like them) but they are very unreliable and there is nothing worse then intermitting electrical problems.

Koz

 

[sketch1]

I have been using those crimp connetors for 10 or so years now for all sorts of things, and as long as you make sure you do them right, and don't use them on wires that move around alot there will be no issue.

 

[Koz]

You could change your clutch and leave the old pilot bearing in because it looks good and is a PITA to replace. Now, do you want to pull the trans out again because it was to much trouble to replace a $5 bearing. Roll the dice!

Koz

 

[alpine0000]

You could change your clutch and leave the old pilot bearing in because it looks good and is a PITA to replace. Now, do you want to pull the trans out again because it was to much trouble to replace a $5 bearing. Roll the dice!

Koz

haha, thats a bad example. we are talking about an easy to access remote turn on wire here with no stress on it. not a clutch. i think your comparing apples and oranges. i used crimp connectors for 5 years and never had any problems. i still use them. you make them sound as if its "rolling the dice" to use them.

about installers just using them cause theyre quick and easy: yes, they are quick and easy. but if they were as unreliable as you say they are, installers wouldnt use them because half the cars would be coming back into the shop with problems from faulty connectors. like you said, that is more of a hassle then doing it right the first time. installers wouldnt want that. i never ONCE had a car brought back to me because of a bad connection due to a crimp connector. and i worked on 5-10 cars a day for 5 years straight, 6 days a week. and if i only used them cause they were quick and easy in my business, but i knew soldering the remote turn on wire was far superior in this guys situation, why would i tell him to crimp it? im not saving myself anytime. its not making my life any easier or harder. im just trying to be honest.

i think crimp connectors got a bad rep somewhere along the way from people who dont know how to use them, then somehow it stuck. now we have people who have never even used crimp connectors talk trash about them because they "heard" that they suck. (btw, im not directing this at you Koz, i am just saying ive heard that before from people) hehe...

i guess its all just what you feel comfortable using. if we are talkinig about a heavy duty ignition wire for a remote car start, then yea, solder, DONT use crimp connectors because this connection is important and you want the best connection possible that will allow maximum current transfer. but with a remote turn on wire, come on now! :bash:

 

[alpine0000]

I have been using those crimp connetors for 10 or so years now for all sorts of things, and as long as you make sure you do them right, and don't use them on wires that move around alot there will be no issue.

yea, what he said.

 

[ovrrdrive]

I've been using butt connectors for about 20 years exclusively in my stereo installations and have never had a problem...

I use a non-insulated crimping tool though instead of the insulated ones because the NI's poke a hole in the middle of the connector ensuring a good contact. Then just give them a solid tug after it's crimped. If it's a bad crimp it will turn loose when you pull on it...

Between my two trucks there are probably 50 of them and I haven't had trouble with any of them.

It's a remote turn on lead. It's either on, or off. It doesn't have to be clean. If I didn't have butt connectors I'd be comfortable splitting both ends into a 'Y' and twisting each side seperately, then twisting the two sides together and (securely) wrapping it with black tape.

It will be fine, it carries almost no amps at all.

 

[Iowa4Runner]

:iagree: Use the shrink-tubing (a plastic cover that covers the soldered connection and then heated until it shrinks to the wires insulation.) You need to put the tubing on the wire before you solder, then slide the tubing over the connection and heat till it shrinks/seals.

Koz

Shrink tubing rules!!!

 

[NViejeP]

I'm not that challenged, I just tried crimping the wire earlier. And it wouldn't stay in. I think I used pliers to push it down in the middle.

Yes its a very small wire, I've got a 16 AWG speaker wire sitting next to me, and this wire is very small compared to it. I've nevr seen an 18 AWG wire, but I don't think there is that big of a diferecne between 16 and 18.

The wire came from my KnuKonceptz eKO 4AWG amp install kit. It is connected in between the RCAs. Hell, I might just tell the damn shop to replace the whole wire because the retards couldn't fix my engine noise so I had to rewire my whole car.

 

[Koz]

I'm not that challenged, I just tried crimping the wire earlier. And it wouldn't stay in. I think I used pliers to push it down in the middle.

Yes its a very small wire, I've got a 16 AWG speaker wire sitting next to me, and this wire is very small compared to it. I've nevr seen an 18 AWG wire, but I don't think there is that big of a diferecne between 16 and 18.

The wire came from my KnuKonceptz eKO 4AWG amp install kit. It is connected in between the RCAs. Hell, I might just tell the damn shop to replace the whole wire because the retards couldn't fix my engine noise so I had to rewire my whole car.

You have to use the matched size connector (for the wire size) and you have to use the special crimping tool and the matched size part of the crimping tool. The wire size dictated the correct connector and the crimping tool's correct size crimper (there are 3 different sizes on the tool). You can't use pliers, vise grips, etc. On the tool there is a pin like section that secured the wire in the connector, by piercing the insulation and pins the wire to the connector. Everything has to be size matched, the 2+ wires, the connector and the right pin/spacing on the tool.

Do yourself a favor and just learn how to solder the wires. It's something that will come in handy, in the future.

 

[viper4evr2001]

Crimping

its not the same connector but the same idea if you still havent done this.

alpine0000 about the replacing the wire, ya i figured he wouldnt be able to do it since he doenst know how to crimp but its an idea and should have someone do it for him, but i gave him the benafit of the doubt. haha.