How to Fix this? - A-Pillar grab handle bolts

Lamer

Lamer

New member
I have a had a loose grab handle for a long time and in efforts to fix it, the bolt heads sheared off.

I tried to drill it and use an easy-out, but the easy-out broke off in the bolt.

PLEASE ADVISE

- Do I have to drill them out completely??? will that ruin the threads for the new bolts?

Ugq4Sdbl.jpg


easy-out broke in the top bolt
StVtUWwl.jpg
DSWvtkVl.jpg
 
Register to hide this ad
Had the exact same thing happen. I got the easy-out removed but did gack up the threads a bit. They held fine, until I took the handle off again and it was like there were never any threads there at all. Gonna change out to allen head bolts, just not sure if I'm going to just re-tap to a little bit larger thread size (making sure the allen head will fit in the handle first), or bite the bullet and get a Helicoil kit
 
thennen said:
Can you fit a Dremel in there with a thin cutting disc and cut a good slot for a screwdriver?
Click to expand...

there is probably room on the lower bolt, thats a great idea. but definately none on the top bolt, it sheared too far down.

Hopeless Diamond said:
Had the exact same thing happen. I got the easy-out removed but did gack up the threads a bit. They held fine, until I took the handle off again and it was like there were never any threads there at all. Gonna change out to allen head bolts, just not sure if I'm going to just re-tap to a little bit larger thread size (making sure the allen head will fit in the handle first), or bite the bullet and get a Helicoil kit
Click to expand...

i like the idea of allen head bolts a lot. do you know the thread size that would fit the stock bolt hole?

ya helicoil is last resort for me too.
 
Lamer said:
there is probably room on the lower bolt, thats a great idea. but definately none on the top bolt, it sheared too far down.



i like the idea of allen head bolts a lot. do you know the thread size that would fit the stock bolt hole?

ya helicoil is last resort for me too.
Click to expand...

stock bolt dimensions m6x1x20mm
 
Helicoil is useless at that spot ( if you get the stud out)
Unless you can get a flat head slot done and back it out a plug welded nut onto the remaining stud would be one of your last options.. ..
 
For some reason these screws do not like to come out. Getting that easy out drilled out is next to impossible because it is carbide steel. I have had luck drilling around them with very small drill bits, so it could be loosened up and removed. Carbide grinding bits work well too, but this is only a 6mm-1.0 bolt so not alot of room to work with. The easy out is so hard that I also have been able to shatter them into pieces with a hammer and chisel or an air hammer. Good idea switching to allen head bolts. If you can get the easy out removed you could drill out the broken bolts and tap the holes to 1/4" (slightly bigger than 6mm) and use the allen head bolts.
 
I realize it's probably a bit too late for your situation [MENTION=78966]Lamer[/MENTION] but in case others surf into this thread who are thinking of removing their A handle (like I may have to do because like you I am noticing mine may be coming loose as well) I thought I'd share this idea I saw in one of [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] instructional videos.

At 6:01 he begins showing how to remove them with a hand operated impact screwdriver. One noteable point he explains is that it's a good idea to first hammer it tighter first before loosening it.

YouTube
 
I forgot to mention that I get a lot of broken bolts out by welding a nut to the broken bolt or stud. the heat helps loosen it and you can use a socket wrench to remove the bolt. The thing is we usually are not doing this in the interior of the car and typically we use this technique to remove broken exhaust manifold studs from aluminum cylinder heads without having to get out the drill. The weld won't stick to the aluminum and the bolts diameters are bigger than what you are working with, so you would have to be very careful to do this inside the vehicle on such a small bolt screwed into steel. (I may break off 5+ welded on nuts to get out one stud, but it almost always works even on recessed ones)
 
Snowden said:
I realize it's probably a bit too late for your situation [MENTION=78966]Lamer[/MENTION] but in case others surf into this thread who are thinking of removing their A handle (like I may have to do because like you I am noticing mine may be coming loose as well) I thought I'd share this idea I saw in one of [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] instructional videos.

At 6:01 he begins showing how to remove them with a hand operated impact screwdriver. One noteable point he explains is that it's a good idea to first hammer it tighter first before loosening it.

YouTube
Click to expand...

Great tip
 
Rallysport said:
Great tip
Click to expand...

If I'm about to do a mild or deep dive project on the 4Runner, or considering something, or even just for pure entertainment, I usually check out what Sean, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] , and Tim, [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] , have to say at their Timmy the Toolman channel for some advice and tips. I find that their videos are very detailed, thorough and informative. They have lots of great tips and even suggest the tools needed for the job. Really a treasure chest of info for 3rd gen 4Runner owners. I subscribe to them and I always encourage folks who haven't seen their channel before to head over and check it out. I've gotten to know them both personally since I'm a local, and they are both a couple of genuinely nice guys that just like to help folks out. They are true 4Runner enthusiasts.
 
Last edited:
Why Toyota used thread lock on interior parts, much less a screw, I will never understand. Every single person who has tried to remove that grab handle has stripped that screw.
 
No personal experience here, but I would remove the a-pillar cover first...

Then dremel a flat-head in there, use some heat (start with a soldering iron, hopefully you don't need a torch there...) and then try again. Heat will be the secret to softening/removing thread locker.

-Charlie
 
phattyduck said:
No personal experience here, but I would remove the a-pillar cover first...

Then dremel a flat-head in there, use some heat (start with a soldering iron, hopefully you don't need a torch there...) and then try again. Heat will be the secret to softening/removing thread locker.

-Charlie
Click to expand...

soldering iron is a good idea. torch would definitely cause some worry. ill try this. thanks!
 
Lamer said:
soldering iron is a good idea. torch would definitely cause some worry. ill try this. thanks!
Click to expand...

If the soldering iron doesn’t work you could also try a mini butane torch, like the ones for lighting cigars. That’s what I use to solder wires lol.
 
phattyduck said:
No personal experience here, but I would remove the a-pillar cover first...

Then dremel a flat-head in there, use some heat (start with a soldering iron, hopefully you don't need a torch there...) and then try again. Heat will be the secret to softening/removing thread locker.

-Charlie
Click to expand...

T4topher said:
If the soldering iron doesn’t work you could also try a mini butane torch, like the ones for lighting cigars. That’s what I use to solder wires lol.
Click to expand...

dremeled some flat head into each bolt

UE0dDkbl.jpg
jjiX8yul.jpg


then used soldering iron (probably 5 mins continuous heating, just to be sure)

l4tYneTl.jpg


AAAAAAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNDDDDDD........after a broken craftsman screwdriver and a broken drill bit, I called it quits.

N0eVEWWl.jpg


I might just have to leave it as is for now. This really bums me out :crybaby:. I liked that handle. maybe if I get a stronger/bigger bit I can drill them out completely and weld in a nut and washer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 448 (members: 3, guests: 445)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,111
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top