How to fix this dent
- Thread starter wrpsuite
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What’s up wrpsuite,
I just put the same dent on mine last week on on an off road trip. I was planning on starting tomorrow on an attempt to fix it. I was under the impression that it would be accessible by removing the interior panel in the rear section. The rear limited flare on mine is slightly disconnected. You removed the rear interior paneling and it was not accessible? Thanks for your response.
I just put the same dent on mine last week on on an off road trip. I was planning on starting tomorrow on an attempt to fix it. I was under the impression that it would be accessible by removing the interior panel in the rear section. The rear limited flare on mine is slightly disconnected. You removed the rear interior paneling and it was not accessible? Thanks for your response.
Devbot
New member
Either
A) take off the panel and tap it out
B) try a suction cup or glue tabs
C) try using a heat gun and some air duster
D) Live with it because it's very inconspicuous and seems to be in a poor spot to tackle
If I'm not mistaken that panel's crease/pinch welds are pretty damn close to where that dent is which would make it really hard to pop out. You're already near the bottom of the panel which would be tough enough as is
I'd live with it personally
A) take off the panel and tap it out
B) try a suction cup or glue tabs
C) try using a heat gun and some air duster
D) Live with it because it's very inconspicuous and seems to be in a poor spot to tackle
If I'm not mistaken that panel's crease/pinch welds are pretty damn close to where that dent is which would make it really hard to pop out. You're already near the bottom of the panel which would be tough enough as is
I'd live with it personally
Romeo1
Member
Your going to have to do like a body shop and spot weld a rod and pull it. Find some local outfit that’s good. I’d bet you’d spend less than 500 on it.
Body is a tough one. I say that as a guy who’s painted a lot of things with wheels. To get metal right it takes the right touch, plain and simple.
Body is a tough one. I say that as a guy who’s painted a lot of things with wheels. To get metal right it takes the right touch, plain and simple.
Pyral
Member
Don't do the glue stick or suction cup methods. They might sound like a good on Tic Tok but its absolutely hopeless irl. I've tried them both, the glue couldn't bond well enough, and the suction cup isn't strong enough.
Hammer it out, bondo it over, or take it to a body shop. Those are the only options that work.
Hammer it out, bondo it over, or take it to a body shop. Those are the only options that work.
Devbot
New member
Doesn't a weld and pull require a good amount of repainting?
calimobber
Member
Id prob just leave it haha. thats a tough spot with no easy cheap fix.
Romeo1
Member
Not if you feather it in properly and get a good color match. It’s a talent that people either have or don’t. Lots of DIY painting stuff on YouTube.
I’ve painted a fair amount of shit the last 25 years. My 99’ needed a bunch of body work from its past life of neglect. Huge rust repair on the hind quarter from someone who didn’t know what they were doing trying to use gorilla glue to repair the very poorly done super thick bondo and plate patch job. So bad they had to go inside the panel on the trunk area to sand blast, and a driver door that looked like it had a bad case of cellulite……1,000$ to repair and spray black catalyzed primer, which matches the factory paint oddly well. Super worth it, and I say that as a guy who can do body work, just not as well as the pros. I figured it would’ve taken me at least 2 to 3 weeks worth of evenings to do what those guys did in a couple of days. The time for me to fix it just wasn’t worth the squeeze. Painting to me is just not a big deal. But getting an automotive body looking good again is definitely super hard to do.
If the guy has the time and the desire I say go for it. Having done a lot of it though, I’m happy to pay automotive body shops some cash to fix it right and make it look really good. Just find a local outfit that is reasonable and offer them a cash price. You’ll probably have to shop at around a bit. Most shops love to play the insurance game, but just find someone that likes to do cash money no insurance claim for a better price and you’ll be set.
The problem is is without doing a spot weld repair and pulling it, you’re going to end up doing a lot of Bondo which in the end it’s just not going to work. There’s some guys that do the paintless repairs, and that may be an option also. Check in with any of the automotive dealerships in your area, you can usually find somebody that’s pretty good. I’ve used paintless repair three or four times over the years now. Works really well at certain things. Sometimes they drill an acess and then push a body snap or plug in to cover the hole inside something like a door frame.
Yes that’s correct can’t get to it from behind. Super frustrating. Thinking of repainting her next year once I qualify for historic tags. Seems value is going up as a classic so don’t want it to rust through.
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Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Curious - what State/Country issues Historic (reg?) tags on a 20/25 year old vehicle?
Arkansas has them. Up until 2019 you could get antique tags for any vehicle older than 25 years as long as you had more than 1 vehicle registered to your name. Now the vehicles have to be 50 years old, but previously antique tagged vehicles are grandfathered in.
