Drivers side window down, will not roll up

[tb-av]

Was driving today and rolled down my window. That was it. Did not hear any noises, nothing unusual. It will not roll up now.

All other windows operate normally from my driver side controls. The lockout switch works.

I don't hear anything like a straining motor and have not heard anything of that nature with any windows.

2011 Limited

FRONT DRIVER WINDOW

The fuse is good. Location #9 in under dash fuse block if I'm reading the correct info. From bottom of fuse block there is a 30 then a 25 (#9) then another 25. So the fuse inline and after the 30. Listed as Door D - Power windows. I assume that means Door - Driver. Others are listed as Door P ( Rassenger ? ), Door Back, Door RR ( Rear R ? ), Door RL ( Rear Left ? ).

I know how to remove the door panel but beyond that I'm kinda lost.

From what I understand if I get to the motor and unplug it I want to see about 12v on the wire connector when operating the switch.

If I see that voltage the switch is good but motor is bad. ???

I'm trying to find part numbers and potential parts. Am I correct that the motors are near $400? Same for switch panel? at near $300 or some things I saw sowed just the single switch for maybe $70

If anyone has any advice I could use some links to how to vids and parts. I'm swamped with work and this is my work vehicle, need to repair this and then get inspection next month. So this was quit a shock today. Had to drive through rain storms all day with window down.

I greatly appreciate any help anyone can offer. Can't find a single vid on YT about 5th gen power window repair.

ETA: Found some after market motors on eBay for $65. Anyone know anything about them? Also some come with regulator. Should I consider these and if so should I get the whole system or just the motor?

Tom B

 

[NYRunner]

Is this the front drivers’ side window or the rear window?

I had a similar experience with my rear window, and after repeatedly trying was able to get it back up before it seized up completely. After a year or so of not even attempting to open it again I accidentally hit that switch and surprisingly it moved like normal for a few days but then seized altogether again about halfway down. Even had to duct tape some tarp over the opening for a big rain storm that was coming in.

Unfortunately, for whatever reason the rear door window motors aren’t available from Dorman or any other aftermarket manufacturers, and yes- the Toyota replacement part is ridiculously expensive. I have an ended up buying a used setup through eBay for under just $100 that’s been working perfectly ever since. Just make sure the one you choose comes with the motor, not all of the listings do

Unfortunately I can’t offer any guidance on the installation process, a friend helped me with that, so hopefully others here can provide guidance in how to do so if you have to replace it…

Hope that’s helpful and you get it sorted out as quickly and smoothly as possible!

 

[tb-av]

Thanks [MENTION=51763]NYRunner[/MENTION] ... I added a few more details to my post. It's the drivers front. My window as I'm driving. I can't believe I'm unable to find a YT video for this problem on the 5th Gen.

 

[ArthurKotb]

Our gen 1 Sienna had a similar problem. It would always go down but struggle to get back up. Sometimes moving a small bump, sometimes several inches, sometimes, after waiting a few minutes, all the way up again. Then it worked for several days and started up again.

I replaced the switch with after market and that worked for a month. Then it started to repeat the problem again. I ended up buying the Toyota motor and that was 2 months ago, no problem since then.

Go to the official site and look up the motor. Then look at the different prices offered by different dealerships that it displays. I saved about $100 by picking the cheapest dealership. Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories: Official Online Store | Autoparts.toyota.com

Look for any YT video about a Toyota or Lexus same year car. The process will be about the same. Take pictures before you start in case you forget when anything goes. You don't want the bracket to be all the way down until ready to take it out and you need to use blue painter's tape to hold the glass in place while you take out the assembly.

I did not get a new bracket since there was no damage to the old one but I did use some lithium lube in the tracks

 

[tb-av]

[MENTION=701042]ArthurKotb[/MENTION] thanks for the link and info. I was just watching someone rebuilt a window motor and he mentioned that humidity can cause them to fail. It was really humid yesterday and I have had my sunroof or something leaking down in that area of the vehicle. My main concern right now if getting the window up. I did see one video that said to be sure to put a piece of wood or pvc under the window so it can't drop down. I did see one Toyota video that looks like it will be or should be very similar to what I will need to do.

 

[ArthurKotb]

I used this video. At 5:00 minutes he has the panel off and proceeds to remove the assembly with the motor. If you have another video that's good but I liked this guy's idea of using tape on the window to hold it in place; 8:00 minutes. It's more exact than a piece of wood when you are replacing the screws. You want it all to line up at the same time. (I used blue painter's tape so it doesn't leave a residue.)

 

[tb-av]

Thanks, I'll check that vid. What I meant by the PVC or wood is so I can get the window up and actually drive, work, go to store, etc., uttil I can diagnose and get parts.

 

[ArthurKotb]

Thanks, I'll check that vid. What I meant by the PVC or wood is so I can get the window up and actually drive, work, go to store, etc., uttil I can diagnose and get parts.

Ah! Yes! That would be important.:thumb3:

Wife had to drive around for a week with that window closed while I searched for the part. You don't know how often you put the window down until you can't. She's happy now, though, since it goes up as well.

Good luck