How To: Lift Installation (on KDSS equipped vehicles)
- Thread starter eddiebx
- Start date
CZ-4Runner
New member
Thanks for those PDFs. I've been monkeying around with that photo-dump program for hours trying to view the original poster's pictures.
Converted sp8ball's instructions into a pdf as well so I can have both on hand when I put my lift on in a week or two.
View attachment sp8ball Toytec Top Plate Spacer Lift Instruction.pdf
View attachment sp8ball Toytec Top Plate Spacer Lift Instruction.pdf
rochmpr
Senior Member
Considering I have an install coming up in a week or so...
It's about damn time.
Completed my 6112/5160 and T13 spring install yesterday...took me about 6 hours. First one always takes longer. About 2.5" lift in front and 1" in back.
The instructions were a great help. I did use the strap to help pull back the front sway bar...went back together fairly easily.
The only thing I appeared to do differently is not loosen the lower a-arm bolts and disconnected the tie rod ends...worked for me.
The instructions were a great help. I did use the strap to help pull back the front sway bar...went back together fairly easily.
The only thing I appeared to do differently is not loosen the lower a-arm bolts and disconnected the tie rod ends...worked for me.
Attachments
MTN4RNR
New member
It's not like I haven't been trying :bowl:
surf.runner
New member
So legit. Thanks for this writeup.
T-minus two weeks to install.
️️️
T-minus two weeks to install.
️️️CZ-4Runner
New member
Great job! What size tires?
Stock 265 size for now. Will bump up to 275 on next replacement.
CZ-4Runner
New member
This thread has been really helpful. I'm done with the rear, working on the front now. I decided to do the rear first just to "get my feet wet". I went as far as painting coil springs and coil covers. Waiting for coil covers to dry before putting the front back together. So far looks really good and I feel great that everything so going together well and I'm able to torque everything to factory specs, giving me more piece of mind. Thanks!
Cliff notes: need options on how to fix stripped KDSS bracket to driver side lower control arm.
Spent pretty much a whole day installing TRD PRO bilsteins on my Trail with KDSS due to hitting a few snags. Did it alone in my garage. I've read and printed several instructions I found in the forum including the PDFs from this thread. I also watched several videos on YouTube to prepare for the install.
The rears went on without a hitch. Used Wheeler's T13 for the extra lift. I also ordered a 10mm trim packer with the intent of using it to avoid the lean but decided against it at the least minute. More on that later.
I spent a good bulk of the day trying to install the front strut with a taller spring without using a spring compressor. I did rent one from autozone but it was too thick for the strut. I initially didn't want to loosen the lower control arm to avoid messing with the alignment too much if I didn't have to. Had to eventually loosen the arms to gain more clearance and eventually got it on. This was after spending a good 2-3 hours on it scraping knuckles and cursing. Everything else went on without a hitch except when it came to bolting the sway bar into the lca. It still had a lot of tension even with the piston strapped. I did have to remove the sway bar mounts to the piston and solid passenger mount to get the sway bar ends brackets to come even close to the mounting points. I did get the passenger side end brackets on and believed my have stripped the driver side. The upper part driver side bracket is not flushed with the knuckle. I have not tried removing the bolt for fear that I won't even be able to drive it.
Need options on how to fix it. Is replacing the lca necessary? There seems to be very limited aftermarket option out there to replace it or they're ridiculously expensive. The oem is hard to find as well and often backordered. I'm looking into retapping the thread holes or helicoil. Or can I keep driving as is?
I did use the upper clip setting on both the front TRD struts. There is a 1" difference between the front and back. No noticeable lean. I'm glad I didn't use the rear trim packer.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Spent pretty much a whole day installing TRD PRO bilsteins on my Trail with KDSS due to hitting a few snags. Did it alone in my garage. I've read and printed several instructions I found in the forum including the PDFs from this thread. I also watched several videos on YouTube to prepare for the install.
The rears went on without a hitch. Used Wheeler's T13 for the extra lift. I also ordered a 10mm trim packer with the intent of using it to avoid the lean but decided against it at the least minute. More on that later.
I spent a good bulk of the day trying to install the front strut with a taller spring without using a spring compressor. I did rent one from autozone but it was too thick for the strut. I initially didn't want to loosen the lower control arm to avoid messing with the alignment too much if I didn't have to. Had to eventually loosen the arms to gain more clearance and eventually got it on. This was after spending a good 2-3 hours on it scraping knuckles and cursing. Everything else went on without a hitch except when it came to bolting the sway bar into the lca. It still had a lot of tension even with the piston strapped. I did have to remove the sway bar mounts to the piston and solid passenger mount to get the sway bar ends brackets to come even close to the mounting points. I did get the passenger side end brackets on and believed my have stripped the driver side. The upper part driver side bracket is not flushed with the knuckle. I have not tried removing the bolt for fear that I won't even be able to drive it.
Need options on how to fix it. Is replacing the lca necessary? There seems to be very limited aftermarket option out there to replace it or they're ridiculously expensive. The oem is hard to find as well and often backordered. I'm looking into retapping the thread holes or helicoil. Or can I keep driving as is?
I did use the upper clip setting on both the front TRD struts. There is a 1" difference between the front and back. No noticeable lean. I'm glad I didn't use the rear trim packer.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Sleeter
New member
How do you know you stripped the LCA not the bolt? Also please resize the picture to medium or small.
I used Tapatalk to upload the pic.
Now I could be wrong but doesn't the male and female threads usually gets stripped together. I may be able to clean out the lca thread by running a tap through the threads and use a new bolt. I want to avoid taking it apart now and maybe just fix it the next time I have to take it apart again.
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Last edited:
i had a similar problem, but was able to still tighten it down properly. I decided to buy a couple of extra bolts to have on hand...may just be the bolt.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/243168-kdss-front-mounting-bolt-size.html#post2783969
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/243168-kdss-front-mounting-bolt-size.html#post2783969
wfo9
New member
Yea, this is the most common issue with KDSS install. I've mentioned it a few times (even in this thread) and there are several ways to avoid it (none of them easy to explain in words). Overall, try to keep as many of the bolts loose possible to avoid tension and then tighten them all up in sequence... Do it on the ground with the weight of the vehicle on it. Use vice grips to clamp things in place to take tension off the upper bolts.
As far as the stripped nut goes. I mentioned it in the other post liked to above. Try a new bolt first (m12 1.25). If that does not fly go with a time cert. That's really the only other option. You can also try a helicoil, but the timecerts are better in a situation like that. The factory bolts seem weak, so I would try a good grade bolt.
Norcal_bagger
New member
Marked for future reading
Sleeter
New member
The user selects the size of image when uploading via Tapatalk, at least on iOS.
The bolts are relatively soft so more than likely you will be able to get a fresh bolt threaded.
No option to change image size for Android Tapatalk. I'm hoping it's just the bolt.
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Similar threads
