How to properly break in the engine?

I was told a couple different things regarding this. First I was told that I only need to break it in for the first 100 miles. I should not drive at a constant speed, ie. cruise control. I should try to go fast and slow multiple times. Then I was told that the breakin timeframe was 250 miles. Which is it? I want to break it in properly. Thanks all.
 
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i heard mixed things about breaking in cars. the one i think makes most sense is to vary the rpms so the engine seats right or soemthing? so thats what i do. i dont floor it or anyhting but i give it like 3quarters gas accelerating occasionally. i just got my 4runner on saturday so i have a long long way to go..
 
I think Toyota recommends 1K miles, but most of the break-in (seating rings, valves, etc) is within the first 100 miles. I think what is equally important during break-in is heat cycles. What I mean is; bringing the vehicle up to operating temp, then letting it cool down, and repeating this many times. I think this is why manufactures like/want longer break-in periods.

Koz
 
I agree with you Koz.

Here is my situation. According to the dealer inbound report, my vehicle sat on the lot for 7 months and by the time I bought it, it did have 113 miles on her.

I changed my oil (w/o filter) at 500miles and then switched to fully synthetic at 2k miles.

I know you are very much into maitaining the vital fluids, what is your opinion about the OEM Toyota Engine Block Heater. The Canadian version I bought (but did not instal) has a cyclic heat range auto on / auto off.

Now, bare in mind that we know full synth maintains is properties well, but wouldn't you say that there is a slight advantage to starting a motor that is warm vs cold when the temperature drops to say 30 (basically during the winter) regardless of full, partial synth, or dino.
 
PROZAC said:
I agree with you Koz.

Here is my situation. According to the dealer inbound report, my vehicle sat on the lot for 7 months and by the time I bought it, it did have 113 miles on her.

I changed my oil (w/o filter) at 500miles and then switched to fully synthetic at 2k miles.

I know you are very much into maitaining the vital fluids, what is your opinion about the OEM Toyota Engine Block Heater. The Canadian version I bought (but did not instal) has a cyclic heat range auto on / auto off.

Now, bare in mind that we know full synth maintains is properties well, but wouldn't you say that there is a slight advantage to starting a motor that is warm vs cold when the temperature drops to say 30 (basically during the winter) regardless of full, partial synth, or dino.

Does this engine heater, heat the engine oil or coolant? Will you be using this heater because of hard starting or to prevent cold start engine wear (cold starts cause the highest percentage of engine wear), or both?

Cold start engine wear accrues during the time the engine is cranking while the oil hasn't reached the vital areas of the engine.

I don't like the idea of heating the oil to warm the engine, but if you are, I would try to use a heater that can be programmed to start heating at a certain time instead of maintaining a certain temp. Also a heater that runs on AC and DC if possible. If the heater uses the vehicle's battery I would definitely put a yellow top Optima battery in.

If you don't have a hard starting problem and all you are concerned with is cold start engine wear you should look into using a pre-luber and 0W - 30 synthetic oil. I recommend these;

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tso.aspx

This Pre-luber is added to the by-pass kit I just install. It will pre-lube all the vital parts of the engine before the engine is started.

https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/amk.aspx

Koz
 
From what I understand it does neither. It heats up the actual block. I would be using this heater to prevent cold start engine wear.

The Canadian dealership website says

"Metal contact of thermal heat rod transfers heat to both engine block and transmission case"
 

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break in

I have always wiped the cylinder walls using the pistons:D
You rev the motor to some point at 60-7-% of redline and then keep raising the ante as u get more miles on. Even better to do on twisty hilly roads that help to apply varied loads on the motor.
Unfortunately with the 5spd autotranny it is very difficult to rev the motor w/o excedding speedlimits or w/o flooring the pedal which is not a great way to start out on a breakin.
So, I am trying but hopeful that ?Toyota has bench run these engines and so saved us some of the more difficult to do work w/o a manual gearbox.

Also, does anyone know if Toyota uses a special break in oil.
On my s2000 site, many guys were changing the oil at 600 miles only to learn that honda had a special mix that they wanted u to keep for a few thousand miles!

Also someone mentioned changing to synthetic quickly. I dont think thats a good idea b4 say 10k.
 
PROZAC said:
From what I understand it does neither. It heats up the actual block. I would be using this heater to prevent cold start engine wear.

The Canadian dealership website says

"Metal contact of thermal heat rod transfers heat to both engine block and transmission case"

That heater looks good. You could set it up with a timer to turn on just before you wake so it doesn't have to heat all the time (probably would use allot of electricity). I would also use the Amsoil 0W-30 Series 2000, to insure fast flow on cold starts (even with the heater).
 
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Toyota does not use break-in oil. If you add the lag time between building and testing the engine, installing it in a vehicle and making it through storage and transportation and sitting on the dealer lot and people test driving the vehicle you have put the vehicle in the severe category and if using say a 6mon/5k miles interval, because of time, you might be ready for that first oil change the day you take delivery.

I changed mine at 500 miles, 1000 miles and 5000 miles and now do every 5000 miles with synthetic.
 
Good advice from Larry,

Toyota would need to use and specify the oil type that it uses for EPA certification.

The first early oil change is the best thing you can do for your engine well being. 500 or 1,000 miles. How you drive it is your preference. Any machine will last longer the more lightly it's loaded.

After that, keeping your oil clean is important. And clean means being particle free smaller than that a filter can achieve. This requires frequent oil changes. I believe it better to spend the same money with frequent changes with mineral oil than with extended using synthetic.
 

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