I have to quit using the dealer for service

Kanab

New member
I end up getting what I pay for but I have to come up with tactics that allow me to check all of their work and then watch them like a hawk. Not fun. I think I will go back to using the guy next door that owns a shop. At least there I can stand and watch the work. Example today I had the dealer rotate the tires, I wanted them Xed based on the wear pattern I was seeing. The service writer even drew a picture to make sure they did it right. Got it back and they switched the tires side to side :( The reason I knew, was because I marked my tires. So I made them redo it the way I wanted. Just think what happens to most people that don't check their work.
 
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How much do you pay for the tire rotation? After a similar incident I started doing my own tire rotation when ever I change the oild myself.
 
The only thing the stealer touches on my vehicles is warranty work, which on a toyota is very little. I always use better/high performance products then the dealers, such as Mobile 1 trans and motor/filter oil, Plat.+The only thing the stealer touches on my vehicles is warrantee work, which on a Toyota is very little. There always seems to be drama and BS when the stealer touches a vehicle. I always use better/high performance products then the dealers, such as Mobile 1 trans and motor/filter oil, Plat.+4 plugs, drilled/slotted rotors, Optima batteries, etc. I’m very anal about the quality of work, which is why I do all the work myself. I keep vehicles a very long time and then give them to a family member.

Koz
 
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The only time the dealer will see me again is for warranty work. I nailed them on the last Toyota survey and I hope Toyota sends me another so I can tell them how they can't even do a tire rotation correctly. I'll which to Mobil 1 5w30 next change and run it for 5K miles for warranty reasons and I will change the diffs over to synthetic. I plan on trading at 80K miles and since I don't tow and they state that my 2004 does not need the fluid changed I think I will not even service it (since it doesn't have a dipstick and needs the Toyota special WS fluid why deal with it since you would want the dealer to do it and they would do more possible harm then it would do good to change the fluid)
 
Pitbull,

I'm curious about your user name, I am a great admirer of the American Pit Bull Terrier. I've owned them for most of my life. I currently have a pure Colby male that is just SUPER!

Koz
 
Koz said:
Pitbull,

I'm curious about your user name, I am a great admirer of the American Pit Bull Terrier. I've owned them for most of my life. I currently have a pure Colby male that is just SUPER!

Koz

Mines brindle and weighes around 80 lbs, he's around 4 years old and sits in my lap when I watch TV. He is the sweetest dog in the world. Pits get a bad rap from people that don't know much about dogs. I also have a Golden and a Boarder Collie and the Pit is my favorite.
 
Here why things don't get done right in the dealerships. The Mechanics(the folks
that do the work and get their hands dirty) and the Technicians(they are the ones that
DON'T get their hands dirty) get paid by flat rate. The game is to beat flat rate,
that way you make more money. Flat rate is actually pretty generious, but they always try to cheat.

The reason your tires were not rotated they way you wanted was that the mechanic would
have to jack up both ends of the T4R at the same time. By cross rotating he had only to do
one end at a time and that is faster, remember got to beat flat rate.

Cliff s
 
I do all my own tire rotations. I only take it in for warranty work, and the major services. I do my own oil changes. This way, I can check the tire pressure myself, and make sure they don't over touque the lug nuts.
 
Cliff s said:
Here why things don't get done right in the dealerships. The Mechanics(the folks
that do the work and get their hands dirty) and the Technicians(they are the ones that
DON'T get their hands dirty) get paid by flat rate. The game is to beat flat rate,
that way you make more money. Flat rate is actually pretty generious, but they always try to cheat.

The reason your tires were not rotated they way you wanted was that the mechanic would
have to jack up both ends of the T4R at the same time. By cross rotating he had only to do
one end at a time and that is faster, remember got to beat flat rate.

Cliff s

I think that is why they were worn the way they were, that is why I wanted them Xed. I've had good luck with oil/filter changes with my wifes Nissan 350Z but I think I will also take it to my buddy where I can watch and have them run Mobil 1 5w30 in it. I tired of them taking my vehicles out of sight and then bring them back and the work is not done correctly.
 
Pitbull,

Colby is brindle with a white head and feet. You are right about a bad reputation. It's a shame that some of the wrong people encourage them to become aggressive towards people. I've raised two kids with Pitbulls and now that my kids are grown, they too will have Pitbulls as their family pets. Everyone who has been in contact with my dogs, fall in love with them. I will NEVER be without one!

Koz
 
All you need for DYI is a couple of things. A set of jack stands, a 4-ton hydraulic jack, and a complete set of metric tools including a torque wrench. A level surface to park is important!! Then a set of FSM or a Haynes manual will answer most questions like fluid capacities and torque settings. This will cost from $ 300 to $ 500 but the payback is instant. I really love working on my T4R :beer:
 
greasefingers said:
All you need for DYI is a couple of things. A set of jack stands, a 4-ton hydraulic jack, and a complete set of metric tools including a torque wrench. A level surface to park is important!! Then a set of FSM or a Haynes manual will answer most questions like fluid capacities and torque settings. This will cost from $ 300 to $ 500 but the payback is instant. I really love working on my T4R :beer:

I did most of the work on my 95 LC and my Dodge 3500 CTD 4x4 but I could get under both of them without jacking them up. I now just want the job done right without a lot of hassle. I can do that at my buddies, and I can watch the work being performed. I can tell you these newer vehicles need less and less preventative maintance.
 
Yea I just replaced all of the fluids, at the 30K miles mark, last weekend. Never used the jack. But I use it to rotate my tires. Squeezing quarts of diff fluid into the pumpkins was easy enough using a piece of 8" long rubber tubing.
 
greasefingers said:
Yea I just replaced all of the fluids, at the 30K miles mark, last weekend. Never used the jack. But I use it to rotate my tires. Squeezing quarts of diff fluid into the pumpkins was easy enough using a piece of 8" long rubber tubing.

Mine is coming up on 15K miles and was thinking about doing the diff's at 15K. How did your diff fluid look at 30K miles? I plan on doing the transfer case at 30K miles. What fluids did you use? I planned on using synthetic's. Since mine is a 2004 with no factory dip stick and the new "WS" transmission fluid and Toyota not recommending any changes unless you tow I figured I would just leave it alone since I will be trading mine at 80-90K miles. Hate to crack open a sealed unit.
 
My Diff & TC fluids looked fine. The diff drain plugs are magnetic and had an 1/8” of particles collected on them. I used all non-synthetic oils. The dealer cost for the tranny ATF-T-IV was $ 3.82/quart (you only need 3.2qts) and when I asked for the TC fluid the handed me Valoline 75w-90 oil. So I handed it back to them and went to PepBoys which cost $ 4/qt. You need 4 ½ qts. I also bought the gear oil at PepBoys. The most expensive fluid was the coolant which was $ 15/gal for the pink stuff. The only problem I had was that I did not have a 10mm hex key for the front diff, which someone here identified for me. I bought one that is attached to a socket, so that I can use a ratchet or torque wrench.
 
Don't know which dealer you use. But I go to Star Toyota's Service Dept. in Bayside, NY. The service managers are great. Derby, Jia, and Mike are really on top of their workers and what I need/want done gets done without much hassle. Most times, It's not the dealers, maybe just your dealer. Local shops are ok for many things, but they don't have to protect their integrity, reputation, and Toyota's Company Standards.
 
Do yourself a favor and use pure synthetic fluids. I use synthetic motor/differential oil and trans. fluid. I even use synthetic grease. It is far superior to petroleum based. Don't try to save money here; these fluids are the life blood of your vehicle, and will make a huge difference if you plan on keeping your vehicle more then two or three years. Remember also that you can double the change intervals.

Note - 3.5 qts. of trans. fluid is only draining the pan, your trans. should hold over ten quarts.

Koz
 
Koz said:
Do yourself a favor and use pure synthetic fluids. I use synthetic motor/differential oil and trans. fluid. I even use synthetic grease. It is far superior to petroleum based. Don't try to save money here; these fluids are the life blood of your vehicle, and will make a huge difference if you plan on keeping your vehicle more then two or three years. Remember also that you can double the change intervals.

Note - 3.5 qts. of trans. fluid is only draining the pan, your trans. should hold over ten quarts.

Koz

I will be going to all synthetics when I do the changes. On the 2004's sealed transmission, with the new "WS" World Standard transmission fluid that Toyota states with regular service never needs to be changed, I don't know if I will change it. I don't tow or off road my vehicle so it should be ok, since I will be trading it a 80-90K miles. If I was to keep it I would service the transmission at 80-90K miles.
 

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