Bigger_Is_Better
New member
OK, I've done everything according to the different write-ups I've read on here, and everything has gone smoothly. Till now.
I first replaced the upper ball joint with a crap Oreilly one. I noticed when I torqued it down to 80lbs that the castle nut was way below the cotter pin hole. I figured it was from crap quality parts as I wasn't impressed with the rest of the joint either. Five miles later it was puking grease. So, I replaced it with a factory Toyota today.
The problem is the Toyota's castle nut is also well below the cotter pin hole, and it's not even at 80lbs yet. Was the Oreilly one so out of spec it messed up my hole size in the A-Arm? That's about the only thing I can think of....If anyone has any ideas I'd really appreciate them!
I guess I should add, I did the other side with OEM from the start and it's perfect.
Factory replacement UBJ as it sits now, not yet to 80lbs.
I first replaced the upper ball joint with a crap Oreilly one. I noticed when I torqued it down to 80lbs that the castle nut was way below the cotter pin hole. I figured it was from crap quality parts as I wasn't impressed with the rest of the joint either. Five miles later it was puking grease. So, I replaced it with a factory Toyota today.
The problem is the Toyota's castle nut is also well below the cotter pin hole, and it's not even at 80lbs yet. Was the Oreilly one so out of spec it messed up my hole size in the A-Arm? That's about the only thing I can think of....If anyone has any ideas I'd really appreciate them!
I guess I should add, I did the other side with OEM from the start and it's perfect.
Factory replacement UBJ as it sits now, not yet to 80lbs.