I need more front flex.

DuckieAZ said:
You're looking at about $2000 to $2500+ for the LT kits. (At least thats what google said after a quick search.) Trust me, if you budget $3500 for an SAS, you're going to get what you're look for as far as stuffing your tires, as well as more reliable offroad performance.
Click to expand...

An SAS will definitely increase your flex, off road capability, and drive train strength. If it were my truck, I would go with a waggy D44,adjust lift to around 4-5", coil spring it, and run 35s. When I did the research (I was considering doing an SAS to mine) I also concluded that a switch to a Hino full float rear axle would complete the package... more rugged, better for stress, articulation, not to mention the beefy housing. There are other schools of thought... see sonoran steel's build. Any truck that has undergone a SAS will have some issues, but the money is probably better spent there then trying to squeeze performance out of an inferior system.

I'm not trying to scare you away, but you must understand that you don't just swap in an SAS, and have the same truck just with more off road prowess. You will lose some street manners, gain height, and see your truck transform into a trail rig. I would recommend against using an old 4runner front axle, as the brakes suck and its narrow.

OP said his truck is open / open. My advice was, and shall remain: Lock it up and drive it before examining options such as an SAS.
 
Last edited:
Mr. Leary said:
An SAS will definitely increase your flex, off road capability, and drive train strength. If it were my truck, I would go with a waggy D44,adjust lift to around 4-5", coil spring it, and run 35s. When I did the research (I was considering doing an SAS to mine) I also concluded that a switch to a Hino full float rear axle would complete the package... more rugged, better for stress, articulation, not to mention the beefy housing. There are other schools of thought... see sonoran steel's build. Any truck that has undergone a SAS will have some issues, but the money is probably better spent there then trying to squeeze performance out of an inferior system.

I'm not trying to scare you away, but you must understand that you don't just swap in an SAS, and have the same truck just with more off road prowess. You will lose some street manners, gain height, and see your truck transform into a trail rig. I would recommend against using an old 4runner front axle, as the brakes suck and its narrow.

OP said his truck is open / open. My advice was, and shall remain: Lock it up and drive it before examining options such as an SAS.
Click to expand...

I think people underestimate what simply locking the rear can do offroad. I'm hoping to get an Aussie installed in July, because so far most of what I have ecountered that I got stuck on would have been cured if I had a locked rear. I also think that SASing really shouldn't be necessary unless you're breaking IFS stuff every trip. I think everyone should experience swapping a CV on the trail lol.

When the time comes for my SAS, its getting the full package. Re-gearing 5.29 front and rear, ARB locker, Any of a variety of axle upgrades, ect. No sense in just swapping a stock axle on the front, too much work for something so boring lol. (And hopefully some dual tcase action in the mix.)
 
DuckieAZ said:
I think people underestimate what simply locking the rear can do offroad.)
Click to expand...

I agree, for the money your best bet is a locker, or two! Lifts, big tires, fancy coil-overs or whatever don't compare to a truck that is fully locked. A 3rd Gen, not lifted, with only good tires and front and rear lockers will leave all of us not locked in the dust! Seriously, that's really the heart of it; just good tires and lockers and you will be unstoppable. And only after you mangle every body panel with that setup will you be looking for more flex, then its SAS

LINY you have a nice setup so far with your truck, lock it front and rear and you will be very impressed with what you can do!!
 
Gears and e-locker are definitely next on the list, just trying to source one out.

Still havent decided if the front is getting locked, but I'm leaning towards no. There's alot of tight turns in the trails we run and alot of steering wheel action so I think a front locker would definitely break things.

I'm also gonna look for a set of used UCA's from Camburg or AllPro and do a before and after RTI test...
 
LINY4Runner said:
Gears and e-locker are definitely next on the list, just trying to source one out.

Still havent decided if the front is getting locked, but I'm leaning towards no. There's alot of tight turns in the trails we run and alot of steering wheel action so I think a front locker would definitely break things.

I'm also gonna look for a set of used UCA's from Camburg or AllPro and do a before and after RTI test...
Click to expand...

Locking the front can be a bit nerving on ifs, especially when you are using larger tires. But consider a selectable for the front (arb or another e locker) or even a something like a Detroit Limited slip diff. That way you don't have to worry about fighting PITA steering on tight trails.
 
I agree with you LINY that locking the front shouldn't be a priority for you either. Get the rear locked and 4.88s like you've been thinking and you'll be very happy, I guarantee it!!

Although I agree that a fully locked stock height 4runner with good M/Ts will get you farther than a lifted open diffed truck, you will be high-centering and busting your body up. Besides the front locker being a little too harsh for IFS in some situations, there aren't really that many situations where 4x4 and a rear locker won't get you through.

3-4" of lift and just a rear locker will usually get you farther (in a practical sense) than dual lockers on a stock truck. Often it's not more traction that you'll need, but sheer ground clearance just to get over rocks that you'd otherwise high center your frame or hang your diff up on (with small tires). These situations happen a lot more frequently than the ones that require all 4 tires to be turning instead of just 3.
 
brian2sun said:
I agree with you LINY that locking the front shouldn't be a priority for you either. Get the rear locked and 4.88s like you've been thinking and you'll be very happy, I guarantee it!!

Although I agree that a fully locked stock height 4runner with good M/Ts will get you farther than a lifted open diffed truck, you will be high-centering and busting your body up. Besides the front locker being a little too harsh for IFS in some situations, there aren't really that many situations where 4x4 and a rear locker won't get you through.

3-4" of lift and just a rear locker will usually get you farther (in a practical sense) than dual lockers on a stock truck. Often it's not more traction that you'll need, but sheer ground clearance just to get over rocks that you'd otherwise high center your frame or hang your diff up on (with small tires). These situations happen a lot more frequently than the ones that require all 4 tires to be turning instead of just 3.
Click to expand...

I agree with this completely. Just be weary of modding the front suspension too much. You don't want to dump money into the IFS (including gears) just to swap it out (if that is ever an option for you of course). I've seen so many 86+ guys dump money into the IFS with lifts, lockers, gears, ect and still not be satisfied, then have to spend the money all over again with a SFA.
 
Yeah, I agree it's much better to decide from the beginning whether to SAS or just build up the IFS (gears, suspension, etc..), it will save you a lot of $$ in the long run. I know mine isn't getting a solid axle anytime soon so gears and suspension for my IFS was the right way to go for me. And it is still a great trail truck and will still get me pretty much everywhere.

Consider this too, I know from talking to LINY and JohnsD90 that pre '86 yotas are hard to find back east, but here in CA they're still pretty common and in most cases they would be cheaper than doing an SAS to a 3rd gen. Plus you'd have 2 sick off roaders!
 
brian2sun said:
Yeah, I agree it's much better to decide from the beginning whether to SAS or just build up the IFS (gears, suspension, etc..), it will save you a lot of $$ in the long run. I know mine isn't getting a solid axle anytime soon so gears and suspension for my IFS was the right way to go for me. And it is still a great trail truck and will still get me pretty much everywhere.

Consider this too, I know from talking to LINY and JohnsD90 that pre '86 yotas are hard to find back east, but here in CA they're still pretty common and in most cases they would be cheaper than doing an SAS to a 3rd gen. Plus you'd have 2 sick off roaders!
Click to expand...

Lucky! Here in AZ they are few and far between, mostly because nothing rusts here. When I do come across a 85 or older, they are already modded to the ends and back, not street legal, and crazy expensive. Even when I come across just a Solid axle, people want 400+ for ones beat to hell.
 
Yeah my truck is about 65% trail rig, 35% mall crawler, but I want to keep that 35%. Everyone in our 4x4 club trailers their trucks, I drive mine 4 hours, wheel the piss out of her, AND drive her home. I fully plan on keeping it that way.

So the front will stay IFS and open. I will look into the LSD for the front, as I've seen what a rear LSD can do over open and it's amazing.
I do still want to get a set of those UCA's and test them out on an RTI ramp, but definitely not before I get the gears and locker.

Priority on my list is BudBuilt skids, then it's on to the 4.88's and the e-locker, and the LSD if I can locate one.

Anyone have a link for that front LSD?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 172 (members: 1, guests: 171)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top