I want to build some Rear adjustable upper control arms. Needs parts links

[opie74]

Update: I bought some upper arms.

I need to rotate the pinion up in the rear. I am at about a 7 degree difference between the slope on the shaft and the slope on the pinion. ToyTec is sold out and the local shop says they want to have the rig for 5-7 days. I know I can build a set, but need some links as to where I can purchase the goods.

Should be able to do it for quite a bit cheaper than buying.... They dont need to be bulletproof. Stock strength is fine. Just need the ability to make them longer. Ive thought about just stretching my stock ones out, but seems like a fun project.

 

[opie74]

Surprised no one is showing interest. Just got back from a trip, had to keep the speed below 60 to keep the vibes down. Rear joint is toast with less than 3000 miles on it.

Or am I one of the only folks with a lift that is experiencing driveline vibrations? And no, its not the shaft, tires, brakes, pinion bearing, output bearing on the tcase, wheels etc.....

 

[curtperry]

Before you go make some arms it might be worth confirming the source of the vibes by placing the rear axle on jack stands, chocking the front tires, and letting the rear wheels spin in D while you look/feel around underneath. Having a helper with their foot on the brake is nice too.

Not a method for the careful folk among us... but it's been done.

As for arms I assume that you have a welder. You could cut the stock arms in half, trim each half back an inch or so, weld nuts onto each side and use some reversing all-thread to make them adjustable without disconnecting a side.

 

[shmabs]

Sounds like you have narrowed it down pretty well.

The stock arms looks pretty spindly to me, if i were building adjustable uppers, they would be brand new, as in no re-use of stock parts. I would be using rubber joints on both ends, if possible i like to use stock replacement bushings and find the approriate size tube so that they are a press fit into your new sleeves. Unless you are after max flex, then a flex joint on one end helps with that. I like flex joints because they aren't as harsh as heims and most of them can be tightened when they wear. I have had good luck with summit machine joints in the past. Then i use the largest (within reason) high quality tube, threaded rod, jam nuts and weld inserts from your vendor of choice. I hope you can weld well enough to make these strong, if not, you can always tack it and leave it up the pros. Breaking control arms never ends well.

As far as where to buy this stuff.....its just about everywhere! Summit machine, ballistic fab, spidertrax, mc master carr, online metals, rubicon express, blue torch fab, ruffstuff specialties etc....just google 4x4 DIY fabrication parts.

 

[opie74]

Before you go make some arms it might be worth confirming the source of the vibes by placing the rear axle on jack stands, chocking the front tires, and letting the rear wheels spin in D while you look/feel around underneath. Having a helper with their foot on the brake is nice too.

Not a method for the careful folk among us... but it's been done.

As for arms I assume that you have a welder. You could cut the stock arms in half, trim each half back an inch or so, weld nuts onto each side and use some reversing all-thread to make them adjustable without disconnecting a side.

Through process of elimination I have narrowed it down to the pinion. If the pinion angle was closer to 0, then I would still be trying to track it down. But its the only thing left that can be causing vibrations. I suppose one of the axle shafts could be bent, but I believe that would be showing up as failed seals and a bad bearing.

I ordered the arms from ToyTec yesterday. I was able to track down all the parts to build them for about $145.

 

[opie74]

I got the toytec arms installed this evening. I raised the pinion angle to 9 degrees which brought the shaft angle to almost right at 10, if not a hair under. This equals 3.5 turns on the heims from fully seated. Seems like plenty of adjustment for those with more lift.

It certainly made a difference. Pulling to the right now, so I need to tweak the arms to bring the passenger side forward/drivers side back. Once I get the spent u joint replaced and get the caked sand off the inside of the wheels from our last trip, things should be smooth.