I want to do my Trans, Diff and T-Case fluids...

Bumbo

New member
I have a 2004 V6 4x4 SR5 4Runner...

Is it better or necessary to use OEM Toyota branded fluids?

I just did my coolant and after much reading it seemed like the right choice to go OEM and I got it in my head that its the safe choice but there is a pretty big premium attached to that decision.

Can anyone confirm what type of fluids and oil needs to be used? I really dont want to buy the wrong stuff.

Thanks.
 
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I use mobil 1 in both of my rigs and the run great 75w 90.

If you do this, make sure you loosen the fill port before draining. because if you drain your diffs and cant get the fill port out, you are boned.

Also, the front takes a 10 mm allen head. make sure you use a hammer to tap it all the way in so that you do not strip it out.
 
Excellent tip, thanks for the reminder.

So 75w 90 gear oil should be good to go... do I need any friction modifiers?

And whats teh verdect on Auto Trans Fluid... I was just going to do a drain & fill so I can get an idea what the existing fluid looks like.

I do have a dip stick on mine... I think that matters as there are two different types of transmissions?
 
I used valvoline maxlife with good results. it and AMS Oil are the only non-oem WS rates fluids out there. But a lot of guys are addamant on straight Toyota OEM WS fluid. and I don't havea good argument against that except for price.

the dipstick means you have the older, 4 gear tranny while hte sealed versions have a 5th gear.
 
valvoline

I used Valvoline Maxlife ATF and Valvoline 75/90 diff fluid on mine.
No issues here, feels great and fluid is still nice and clean after 1200miles!
 
I dont get why people think OEM Fluid is expensive. at least WS, (At least transmission fluid)

you can find very good rates if you shop around for 15 minutes online.
 
I dont get why people think OEM Fluid is expensive. at least WS, (At least transmission fluid)

you can find very good rates if you shop around for 15 minutes online.

Because it is expensive and ma life is half the cost with the same performance or better.
 
I used Valvoline Maxlife ATF and Valvoline 75/90 diff fluid on mine.
No issues here, feels great and fluid is still nice and clean after 1200miles!

I like this recommendation... I just found the fluids locally so thanks for that.

Looks like I can also use Maxlife ATF to replace my power steering fluid too? Manual says DEXRON II OR III
 
I used valvoline maxlife with good results. it and AMS Oil are the only non-oem WS rates fluids out there. But a lot of guys are addamant on straight Toyota OEM WS fluid. and I don't havea good argument against that except for price.

the dipstick means you have the older, 4 gear tranny while hte sealed versions have a 5th gear.

I have a 4 Speed with dipstick and it calls out for Type T-IV... but looks like Valvoline Maxlife ATF is good for that as well.

Seems like Valvoline Maxlife ATF takes care of a lot of different applications from a lot of different manufactures.
 
I did a lot of reading on atf. There is actually a lot of argument out there about it all. In the end there have been zero transmission failures reported on this site from people properly servicing them. So don't be scared like I was. I was terrified I was gonna fry a tranny. But after doing both a v6 and v8 last christmas I fully understand the process and it's not bad.
 
I like this recommendation... I just found the fluids locally so thanks for that.

Looks like I can also use Maxlife ATF to replace my power steering fluid too? Manual says DEXRON II OR III

I use valvoine maxlife atf for power steering.
The valvoline instant oil change database shows maxlife atf as an acceptable fluid for the power steering.

I've noticed that the power steering fluid is pretty dark, gotta look into a flush and filter replacement.
 
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Have a newb question regarding the differential fluid...I took it to a local mechanic and found he had used 80w90 on both differentials and in the transfer case. The weather here never hits 0F, so I'm wondering if this needs to be changed to the 75w90 or does it matter?
 
Have a newb question regarding the differential fluid...I took it to a local mechanic and found he had used 80w90 on both differentials and in the transfer case. The weather here never hits 0F, so I'm wondering if this needs to be changed to the 75w90 or does it matter?

It shouldn't matter. You're good.
 
I use mobil 1 in both of my rigs and the run great 75w 90.

If you do this, make sure you loosen the fill port before draining. because if you drain your diffs and cant get the fill port out, you are boned.

Also, the front takes a 10 mm allen head. make sure you use a hammer to tap it all the way in so that you do not strip it out.

Do you torque your drain and fill plugs? I've read on this site where several say that you torque the front differential drain plug to 48 ft/lbs, but my Chilton manual says 29 ft/lbs for both the front drain and fill plugs. I'd hate to use the wrong torque value for obvious reasons. Thanks in advance!
 
Do you torque your drain and fill plugs? I've read on this site where several say that you torque the front differential drain plug to 48 ft/lbs, but my Chilton manual says 29 ft/lbs for both the front drain and fill plugs. I'd hate to use the wrong torque value for obvious reasons. Thanks in advance!

Service manual says 39Nm (29 ft/lb) for front, 49Nm (36 ft/lb) for rear.

Personally, I've never took a torque wrench to any of the drain/fill bolts. Go to snug, turn a bit more to crush the washer, then called it good.
 
Do you torque your drain and fill plugs? I've read on this site where several say that you torque the front differential drain plug to 48 ft/lbs, but my Chilton manual says 29 ft/lbs for both the front drain and fill plugs. I'd hate to use the wrong torque value for obvious reasons. Thanks in advance!

the only thing I torque on my truck is the axel nut and the wheels lugs. everything else is either "tight enough" or TAF. The TAF items would be brakes and major components that if they fell off I would die. I have had and read too many bad experiences about people (and myself) breaking stuff because they tried to follow torque specs.
 
Do you torque your drain and fill plugs? I've read on this site where several say that you torque the front differential drain plug to 48 ft/lbs, but my Chilton manual says 29 ft/lbs for both the front drain and fill plugs. I'd hate to use the wrong torque value for obvious reasons. Thanks in advance!

I am one of those people that do... I've stripped a drain bolt before on my ATV and its a solid way to create more work for yourself.

I know most people probably don't... especially people who are working on other peoples cars.

I have a friend who is a professional tech that likes to make fun of me because I am always asking or looking for torque specs. He never uses a torque wrench unless he is doing engine work or something "critical", but he also has a really good feel for it when wrenching doing this for a living...

I paid good money for my torque wrenches, bought quality stuff, 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive Precision Instruments (one of Snap-On OEM vendors)... I figure I might as well use em.

I'll be honest I really like that part of the process regardless of what I am working on... that final torque down and click is very satisfying to me. I feel completion when I hear it.

Maybe I am just weird like that... I'm just a hobbyist, and I love my tools too. The split bean design is fantastic, you never have to turn them down. Very convenient.

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