Idler Part Numbers

G-Cam

Member
Hey guys,

Wondering if anyone has replaced their Idlers? RockAuto calls them upper and lower, just wondering if based on the picture I would need 2 upper and 1 lower? Also they call out 2 separate bearings for the tensioner. I changed my Serpentine Belt not long ago and 2 out of the 3 idlers didn't free spin very well and I can hear a slight whining from 1 of them now.

Thanks for the help!
 

Attachments

  • 101806073.gif
    101806073.gif
    8.5 KB · Views: 6,402
Register to hide this ad
Yes. 2 number 2’s.
16604-0P011 OEM Idler Pulley 2010-2019
 

Attachments

  • AE2F7FB4-C56A-4453-9F96-969E78F0E7C0.jpg
    AE2F7FB4-C56A-4453-9F96-969E78F0E7C0.jpg
    66.2 KB · Views: 6,778
Some of the 5th gens do not take 16604-0P011 for the two upper idlers, depending on the mark code they may actually take 16604-31030. Ive also been told that the two upper idlers some will take a inner and out plate between the idlers and some only an outer. I’ve gotten no clear answer from Toyota on this despite calling two dealerships.
 
Some of the 5th gens do not take 16604-0P011 for the two upper idlers, depending on the mark code they may actually take 16604-31030. Ive also been told that the two upper idlers some will take a inner and out plate between the idlers and some only an outer. I’ve gotten no clear answer from Toyota on this despite calling two dealerships.

Looks like you’re right. Crazy.
Here’s a link, look at the 4Rs these fit and the years and models are all over the place.
1660431030 - Accessory Drive Belt Idler Pulley. Becoming, BDrive - Genuine Toyota Part
 
1000mph how does one view their mark code? Is it on the pulley itself? If so that would be a challenge getting parts ahead of time as I don’t know how one would view numbers stamped on the pulleys. Sadly if you use the wrong one I am told it will work for awhile but will fail quickly. Would love to see how both are designed and the differences.
 
Yeah, it’s easy to take pics of the upper #2 idler pulleys and read the marks. Mine are both 013’s.

Maybe I’ll get a pic of the lower sometime soon.
 

Attachments

  • 4C7776C9-F288-42E1-B90D-39809EE8BF6C.jpg
    4C7776C9-F288-42E1-B90D-39809EE8BF6C.jpg
    61.9 KB · Views: 4,321
  • 1551C019-89C9-465C-A88B-76D354A72EA4.jpg
    1551C019-89C9-465C-A88B-76D354A72EA4.jpg
    128.3 KB · Views: 4,542
  • 26C12198-A6A6-415E-B497-B3B894664173.jpg
    26C12198-A6A6-415E-B497-B3B894664173.jpg
    122.7 KB · Views: 3,982
Last edited:
Don't forget end plates if you ordering OEM Toyota part (each pulley has 2 steel washers/covers sold separately).
 
My '14 is nearly 100k and I plan to refresh my belt/pullies. Is it just the No. 1 pulley, x2 No. 2 pullies, and the serpentine belt that is commonly replaced? Is the fan, steering, or alternator pulley swapped as well?
 
Yeah, it’s easy to take pics of the upper #2 idler pulleys and read the marks. Mine are both 013’s.

Maybe I’ll get a pic of the lower sometime soon.

Not very camera savvy, how did you get such clear shots of the pulleys to read the mark code? I’d like to do the same to see which ones I should order. Maybe I could try with my phone coming from the top side.
 
Don't forget end plates if you ordering OEM Toyota part (each pulley has 2 steel washers/covers sold separately).

Thank you this is helpful. I’m not seeing part numbers for the inner and outer plates/washers for the LOWER idler pulley. I think both UPPER idler pulleys have an inner plate 16649-310207 and an outer plate 16659-AD010. I haven’t fully confirmed this as I’ve found two dealerships not to helpful in figuring out what all I need to order. In fact one of the dealerships (parts dept) told me I could find my mark code for the pulleys on the sticker found when opening drivers door. Took me some time to figure out he was way off.

I’m assuming, maybe incorrectly, that there is no need to order new pulley bolts. I do know I’ve seen corroded and/or worn pulley plates/washers.
 
I'm trying to get a list of parts, let me know if this is correct. I got these P/N's from McGeorge Toyota.

2014 4Runner:

No. 1 Idler (Lower) Pulley: 16603-0P030 (No plate covers required)
No. 2 Idler (Top) Pulleys x2: 16604-31030 x2 (My '14's two top pulleys has 7016 mark codes) or 16604-0P011 for vehicles with 7013 mark codes
No. 2 Idler Pulley Outer Cover: 16659-AD010 x2, Inner Cover: 16649-31020 x2
Serpentine Belt: 90916-A2015
Fan Clutch: 16210-0P020
Belt Tensioner Assembly: 16620-31051


I think I may re-use the existing outer/inner idler plates if I can. Also is the replacement of the pulley tensioner mechanism a necessary job?
[MENTION=607781]Rpede[/MENTION] @<<<<

Okay, I edited this post to indicate P/N 16603-0P030 as the lower idler/No. 1 pulley. That P/N does have the "DOUBLE" stamped on the pulley from the images I've seen. Going off [MENTION=53327]1000MPH[/MENTION] post it does appear that the No. 2 idler pulley outer/inner plate covers have a specific mark code but I can only find the plate covers for those with mark code 7013. Curious if these same P/N's work with the 7016 idler pulleys.
 
Last edited:
I believe the lower idler pulley is actually 16603-0P030 which you list as the tensioner pulley. I may be incorrect as the diagram isn’t the best. The diagram seems to show the tensioner pulley as being linked specifically to the purchase of a new tensioner unit. The pulley tensioner mechanism replacement seems like a far more in depth job so I’m holding off on that one for right now. I’ve heard about more frequent failures with the two upper and single lower idler pulleys so I’m tackling the easier stuff first. I am not seeing an inner or outer plate/washer for the single lower idler pulley in any diagram so maybe only the top two idler pulleys have those?

The fan clutch I plan on replacing when I do the water pump, however I imagine replacing it when you do the idler pulleys also makes sense. If you have time update us on what you are doing as I also have a 2014 and may be heading down the same road.
 
Last edited:
Lower idler pulley is No1 pulley and uses 2 bearings (says "Double" on pulley) does not need cover plates. Follow parts diagram in FSM and you'll get what you need. Tensioner pulley can not be ordered separately from Toyota (because it uses left tread it gets literally screwed up often thus tensioner assembly sold as unit).
 
Not very camera savvy, how did you get such clear shots of the pulleys to read the mark code? I’d like to do the same to see which ones I should order. Maybe I could try with my phone coming from the top side.
Pics were taken with my iPhone from the top, use the volume button instead of touchscreen.

Yeah, looks like the ”pulley covers” are distinguished by mark as well.
Here’s the diagram btw...
WATER PUMP. Toyota | Toyota

I took a pic of my tensioner asy awhile back too if you want to see how to lock it back. No pic of the tensioner pulley, unfortunately. It’s in this thread...

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/263828-serpentine-belt-replacement.html#post3162066


I would not get the Toyota belt when you can get quality aftermarket and OEM for $12.

I can’t justify replacing everything that spins as preventative maintenance. I’ve got friends with 300,000-450,000 miles on their Toyota trucks and it seems hit and miss what is gonna go out.
 
Last edited:
Clearly I need to take an iPhone picture class as I couldn’t get anywhere near the quality of pics you posted...finally got a clear enough one to get my mark code...appreciate your help with this.

Would you recommend as preventative maintenance in changing out water pump, thermostat, and upper/lower hoses? 130k miles no leaks detected.

Was also thinking of adding an inline magnefine trans filter. I do regular changes on 4Runner, have already dropped pan replaced screen filter, cleaned magnets. I’ve had tremendous success with these filters (genuine ones) and prior vehicles. Weakest trans ever 2003 Honday Odyssey dealership mechanic came out of the shop one day and asked how I’ve gotten 400k miles on it without it failing and told him must be magnefine filter and atf drain/fill every year. I don’t see any posts related to 5th gens and magnefine filters must be because these transmissions are reliable or vehicle age newer so less concern?

Also have the lovely needle bearing issue (only 5th Gen part-time 4WD 4runners have to deal with this headache) starting on left front side and may need to tackle that soon. Learning so much in this forum and TRULY appreciate everyone’s wisdom here.
 
It’s up to you. My coolant hoses look and feel good and my coolant is really clean. Water pump, thermostat will only get replaced if needed. I might not ever replace the trans filter.
 
I replaced my trans filter in the fall do bad things happen when you replace it? Should I pull the pan again and inspect or look for something? I just replaced the pan gasket and filter and filter o-ring, torqued all back up. I saw so many changing their filters online that I didn’t think to research that it may cause problems. Would you mind sharing your concern with changing filter in tranny? Appreciate all your help and advice.
 
Nah, I’m sure you’re good.
Small chance of making a bigger problem out of the solution but my aversion to it is it seems like work that isn’t totally necessary to get my truck to 300-400k miles. May change my mind down the road.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,046
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top