In need of some assistance.......please?

My other question is this safe to drive on until I can get it fixed? I've got like a 20 mile round trip commute and can't get it fixed for a few days
 
The way you describe the shaking when you turn I would not drive it. Although you have to decide that for yourself, based on how bad it is and what the 20 mile drive is like.
(speed, turns ,hills) Have you looked at maybe an independent repair shop instead of a dealer?
 
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Not a lot of turns but it's 45-55 the whole time. I'm a manager at a retail location and I don't have another vehicle to get there since the wife uses the other car, so I can't miss work unfortunately.
 
Not a lot of turns but it's 45-55 the whole time. I'm a manager at a retail location and I don't have another vehicle to get there since the wife uses the other car, so I can't miss work unfortunately.

Hey man, I just changed my cv's for the first time a few days ago. I've never done it before, never watched anyone do it, no experience with cv's at all. I just used the advise on this forum, and my manual. You can do it on your own. And you really dont need much space. There are a few tricks I learned that I could tell you to help out.

As far as driving it with the vibration, it depends on how bad it is. If its really bad you might be a little concerned about damaging your front dif, but that seems unlikely. I doubt you would damage any of your front end suspension or drivetrain components if its just for a few days. My 4runner has had front end wobbles and vibrations for years. Yours may be more significant with the damaged cv's, but still if its only a few days. You best option is to just get it done yourself asap. I believe in you . . . you can do it!! :nerd:
 
Yeah I'm thinking I just might have to try it. Cheapest place I found was $380 for both cv's and labor. I thought that was pretty cheap considering the toyota dealership wanted $337 per side. The local auto parts store has the cv for $100 each no core deposit and lifetime warranty. And I'm sure I can buy the few tools I would need for less than the $180 difference.

I just really don't wanna screw something up but I guess I'll never know if I don't try it.
 
Yeah I'm thinking I just might have to try it. Cheapest place I found was $380 for both cv's and labor. I thought that was pretty cheap considering the toyota dealership wanted $337 per side. The local auto parts store has the cv for $100 each no core deposit and lifetime warranty. And I'm sure I can buy the few tools I would need for less than the $180 difference.

I just really don't wanna screw something up but I guess I'll never know if I don't try it.

You wont mess anything up. Myself and the other guys can walk you through it and give you tips for the few trouble spots you may encounter. I got my cv's from NAPA. Theyre OEM remanufactured, for $53 each. You have to pay a core of 110 for each, but once you give them your old cv's they reimburse you of course. They came with a 36000 mile or 3 year warrenty.
 
Ok so I got both cv's done. Took quite a while due to lack of tools. Each cv has like 1/8 inch or less gap between the cv and actual housing of the transfer case. I notice a slight metal rubbing sound almost like a brake rotor. Since I only touched the cv, I'm thinking it is that. Is that gap normal? The cv went in as far as it could go and axel nut is tightened to factory spec. Any ideas?


Also.......I forgot to add, this whole time the "wobble" feeling and sound it had I thought was a really bad cv joint. I just had the alignment done and they made sure to tell me like ten times how bad they were. I drove it home and it tracked straight and the steering was tight. Then the wobble feeling. Well the one thing I over looked?.................

4 of the 6 lug nuts were completely loose and ready to fall off!!

Since I wasn't driving it and using the wife's car I completely over looked the fact that this shop doesn't know what they're doing. So pissed at them right now. That could have ended badly.
 
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You may have bent the backing plate enough in one spot to where it may be touching the rotor. Check to see. As long as fluid is not leaking out and you can't easy pull the CV out of the diff, you are fine.

Your situation is one of many of why I propose owners do as much DIY repair as possible.

The LBJs are much easier to tackle than CVs IMHO.
 
Ok so there is a consistant metal on metal sound but not loud at all. Then all of a sudden it changes and is really loud then goes away. Still sounds like the brakes but I don't see anything wrong when I'm underneath the truck.
 
Ok so there is a consistant metal on metal sound but not loud at all. Then all of a sudden it changes and is really loud then goes away. Still sounds like the brakes but I don't see anything wrong when I'm underneath the truck.

Bend the dust shield back away from the rotor , the cv either goes in or it doesn't and it either stays or it doesn't, there's very little middle ground to screw things up with here ......
 
Did a quick glance today, couldn't take the wheels off since I was at work all day. Didn't see anything but I won't be able to take the tires off until tomorrow to check the dust caps on the rotors.


We did however put the floor jacks on the subframe though. Like on the skid plate. Could that have bent up and is rubbing on something?

It is worse at slower speeds and kind of goes away on the highway.
 

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