Going to Replace Front Struts + Ball Joints, have any "while you are at it" reccos?

[5horizonsrr]

Going to Replace Front Struts + Ball Joints, have any "while you are at it" reccos?

Hi everyone,

My wife's daily is a 2001 192,000 mile 2WD 4runner we love to death. Its a nice rust free truck, which is somehow still on its original front suspension, which blows my mind. No rust, and if I'm being candid the struts aren't terrible...

Regardless, I'm going to show the old girl some love and do new KYBs, plus replace the lower ball joints for peace of mind. All this will happen while the brakes are off for (tundra spec) upgrading as well.

Where I need your help is, what else should I be swapping out while I'm in there? Specific thoughts:

1- Springs? The stock ones seem fine, but are they worth replacing?
2- Any other suspension bushings or steering components that are easy to access while it is all apart? The bits that seemingly always need replacing and I can plan on needing once I get in there? I do have a little (not a lot of) steering slop, but don't know if it is advantageous to get into that while doing the suspension or not.

Your advice would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to build a brand new truck, but I'd also prefer to only rip the thing apart once...

Current parts list:
2 x KG 9025 KYB struts
LH + RH Ball joints 43330-39585 43340-39465
Ball joint bolts 90119-10933

Thanks in advance! One part order and no waiting for more parts mid-job is what I'm trying to prepare myself for...

 

[phattyduck]

If you are fine with the front ride height, just re-use the stock springs. Remember that the 2WD is much lighter in the front, so all the 'lift' springs for a 4WD will be around 1" taller than advertised on your rig. Make sure your top-hats are in good shape, along with the upper spring isolators - if not, replace.

Bushings for the arms are probably shot, but if the ride is acceptable as-is, I'd leave them alone. Steering rack and/or the rack bushings aren't any easier to do with the rest of the suspension out of the way. That is accessible from the back/bottom and only a pain if you have heave skid plates in the way.

-Charlie

 

[T4R2014]

Upper and lower control arm bushings. OEM if you're feeling rich, Whiteline if you wish to reduce costs.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Ball joint bolts 90119-10933

Good choice on the bolts, be sure to torque them to 37 ft-lbs (not 59 ft-lbs)

 

[nissanh]

Buy the ball joints from a reliable source.. there are a lot of fake ball joints on ebay and amazon in toyota boxes and seller call it OEM.. Also avoid 555 ball joints.
These 3rd gen 4runners are identically if not better, reliable as a 80 series land cruiser! T-belts, rear wheel bearings, U joints, ball joints and radiator are the only major items I have replaced so far!

 

[T4R2014]

Buy the ball joints from a reliable source.. there are a lot of fake ball joints on ebay and amazon in toyota boxes and seller call it OEM.. Also avoid 555 ball joints.
These 3rd gen 4runners are identically if not better, reliable as a 80 series land cruiser! T-belts, rear wheel bearings, U joints, ball joints and radiator are the only major items I have replaced so far!

From owning both I'd say more. Way less complexity, way less ways for things to go wrong.

 

[5horizonsrr]

Thanks guys! My wife is leaving town for two weeks so my plan is to:

1- Order the "must dos" for suspension and the brake upgrade in advance
2- Pull everything immediately when she leaves (kid at christmas!)
3- Examine the control arm bushings, tophat rubber etc
4- if need be, order the bits #3 uncovers as needing replacement
5- Get it all together right away or the following weekend accordingly.

That pretty much wraps the "200k overhaul" with the TB/water pump/pulleys/belts etc, full rear suspension and trans service etc already done. It will be a new truck!

 

[jgue467]

Do the ...10933 black bolts need these - 2x LBJ protector 43346-60011

I added them to mine though they did not originally come with them - figured it would help with off-roading debris.

And yes based on tests by someone on this site - the black bolts are the strongest and can be re-used once maybe even twice while still retaining enough grip. Luck all.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Do the ...10933 black bolts need these - 2x LBJ protector 43346-60011

I added them to mine though they did not originally come with them - figured it would help with off-roading debris.

And yes based on tests by someone on this site - the black bolts are the strongest and can be re-used once maybe even twice while still retaining enough grip. Luck all.

You don't need the protectors with these bolts, but you can use them (that's why these bolts are slightly longer than the red/green bolts).

From our tests, you can reuse these bolts probably 5-6 times without degradation in torque/preload relationship. But again, be sure to torque them to only 37 ft-lbs.

 

[3bears]

Thanks guys! My wife is leaving town for two weeks so my plan is to:

1- Order the "must dos" for suspension and the brake upgrade in advance
2- Pull everything immediately when she leaves (kid at christmas!)
3- Examine the control arm bushings, tophat rubber etc
4- if need be, order the bits #3 uncovers as needing replacement
5- Get it all together right away or the following weekend accordingly.

That pretty much wraps the "200k overhaul" with the TB/water pump/pulleys/belts etc, full rear suspension and trans service etc already done. It will be a new truck!

with all the work you have done, I do not see a radiator listed. they are only good for 10 years or so, if it is turning borwn or olive color replace it before it fails, as when they fail they take the tranny with them....look up pink milkshake

 

[nissanh]

I am 15 years on the timing belt (approx 50K miles, the belt looks good) and 10 years on a koyo radiator. Got all parts and waiting to get a new radiator. Is koyo same as koyorad? I see cheaper radiators as low as $60 shipped, Koyorad at $125 shipped and Denso at $150+ shipped.

 

[phattyduck]

Is koyo same as koyorad? I see cheaper radiators as low as $60 shipped, Koyorad at $125 shipped and Denso at $150+ shipped.

Yes. I trust the Koyo stuff in their upgraded line (I've use their all-aluminum offerings on a few other vehicles). They are an OE supplier for a number of vehicles. Not sure of the quality of their 4Runner offering - someone else will chime in on that.

Koyo Bearings IS a different company - but when people talk about a "Koyo" radiator, they are talking about a Koyorad radiator. (both are Japanese companies with a long history)

-Charlie

 

[cullowheebandit]

Since you’re already in there, I’d grab new upper control arm bushings, those tend to wear out and can help with that steering slop. Also, check the sway bar links; they’re cheap and easy to swap while you’re at it. Springs? If they’re not sagging, I’d leave ‘em unless you want a lift. Oh, and maybe inspect the inner/outer tie rods for play since you mentioned slop. Shouldn’t add much time and saves a future headache.

 

[5horizonsrr]

Hi everyone,

I just wanted to follow up and say thanks! So in the end I went nuts and did everything, story and results as follows:

- So I started with the plan of LBJs, struts, and tundra brake upgrade (199mm WE)

- Once I got in there, I wasn't thrilled about anything else going on and proceeded to gut the suspension.

- Did UBJs, LBJs, Control arm bushings, Steering rack and sway bar bushings, tie rod ends. Probably forgetting something else here.

- Brake upgrade: MASSIVE improvement! Wow! This was a no brainer upgrade. Dust cover clearance is really tight though, and scares me. No rub as of yet (25 miles)

- Right as I was finishing putting it together, I noticed my drivers side wheel bearing was on its way out. Not rotating smoothly to put it mildly. (I know what you are thinking: my wife's daily, not mine, or I'd have heard it...) This was the bastard of the entire job. I ended up taking it to a shop to press, and replacing the hub while we were at it.

All parts were OEM except whiteline LCA bushings and an energy suspension kit for the steering rack bushings. And napa rebuilt calipers.

Did all labor myself except shop pressed out-then-in the UCA/LCA bushings and pressed in the UBJs, as well as the wheel bearing swap. For fun: $250 labor on the bushings/UBJs and $100 for the bearing swap. In San Francisco, I find that to be reasonable. And saved me from WWIII trying to do it by myself in the garage without a press.

The whole thing was a well worth the extra effort, its a brand new truck. And one that stops to boot!

Thank you all for your extensive help and suggestions. Saved me a lot of on-the-job learning.

This rig is now a run till it dies proposition. I have some fears about the rear end, which has had an "echo" noise since I bought it, but 14k miles later it still runs fine. Ideas? I guess I'm already onto the next project