Info on these TRD wheels

Looks great! What size tires you running?


Thanks! Those are just stock size 265/70/17 Duratracs. It stands a little differently than stock based on a couple other minor modifications, and I think that also makes a huge difference in the way the wheels and tires (and I guess the whole vehicle) look.

I've got Bilstein 5100s installed front and rear while still running factory coils. Front adjustables are set to 1.75", and I also added a 20mm OME trim spacer to each rear coil.

I'm really happy with the way it turned out.
 
Does anyone know anything about the black front bumper lower insert?

I'd like to trade out the silver one on our '14 TE.

Any ideas on price or part number?

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BTW: Re-ordered the wheels today as well, we'll see if they go through!
 
Called the dealership this morning, I got "all 4 of your wheels are here"!
It is @ the dealership currently.
Will post pics when it's done.
 
My dealer quoted me $216 a wheel for these but they said they would need a TRD Pro VIN number to order them?
 
Pleasantly surprised when they said the wheels would be 175.00 ea. + 20.00 to balance and install.
Here are a couple of pics:
b78f314a9d778ad03c0b33f33fe7f5b3.jpg
 

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My dealer quoted me $216 a wheel for these but they said they would need a TRD Pro VIN number to order them?


This thread saw a flurry of speculation/concern over this issue about a week ago, but I'd say that the idea has been debunked at this point. I bought mine through my local dealer, and it looks like [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] did the same thing. The dealer didn't give me any hassle or push back whatsoever.

If you haven't already done so, take a minute to visit Toyota's website. On the TRD page, you can click a link to learn more about official TRD accessories. The page expressly states that buying official TRD accessories for a non-TRD vehicle is "no problem" and that you can purchase them through your local dealer. I'm assuming that the person you talked to is just misinformed.
 
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Haha thanks! The sliders are Shrockworks (dimpled tread plate version). And it's a TEP with no KDSS.

more pics of your truck!

Interesting... I thought KDSS was a popular option for TE and TEPs... Without KDSS do you get a lot more body roll, brake dive and acceleration squatting with the 5100s and a lift?
 
This thread saw a flurry of speculation/concern over this issue about a week ago, but I'd say that the idea has been debunked at this point. I bought mine through my local dealer, and it looks like [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] did the same thing. The dealer didn't give me any hassle or push back whatsoever.

If you haven't already done so, take a minute to visit Toyota's website. On the TRD page, you can click a link to learn more about official TRD accessories. The page expressly states that buying official TRD accessories for a non-TRD vehicle is "no problem" and that you can purchase them through your local dealer. I'm assuming that the person you talked to is just misinformed.

I'll try that. Now just have to make room in my budget!
 
more pics of your truck!

Interesting... I thought KDSS was a popular option for TE and TEPs... Without KDSS do you get a lot more body roll, brake dive and acceleration squatting with the 5100s and a lift?


I'll get a few more pics with some better angles and post them up.

I've never experienced any noticeable body roll or acceleration squatting at all---not when it was stock and not after the modifications. As for brake dive, the installation of the adjustable Bilsteins actually eliminated the infamous factory nose dive that I was experiencing when I first bought it. I've been really happy with this setup, both in terms of ride quality and looks.
 
Thanks! Those are just stock size 265/70/17 Duratracs. It stands a little differently than stock based on a couple other minor modifications, and I think that also makes a huge difference in the way the wheels and tires (and I guess the whole vehicle) look.

[MENTION=108965]cowtown[/MENTION], at the risk of taking this thread into a "who's bulge is bigger" nosedive, complete with obligatory Spaceballs references, can we compare tire bulge measurements of your 265s vs. my LT285s? (are yours the LT or P rated versions?)

I also have my old LT285 Duratracs (with ~45k miles on them) mounted on my stock 7.5" wide TE rims and was going to do a bulge measurement, both on the truck under load and with no load, so I can get a rough comparison between how the tires mount up on the new 7" and old 7.5" rims. Obviously there will be more bulge on the new 7" rim but I'm guessing it's not more than 1/4" or so. Not that it makes it ideal to run 285 tires on a 7" rim, but all the research I've been doing the past few days indicates:

1) it's a pretty common practice (my local tire shop confirmed this and said they didn't have any concerns with my setup)
2) at worst the center tread will likely wear a bit faster than the shoulder tread.

Doubt this will put to rest the 285s on a 7" rim debate but it'll at least give us some real data of how different sizes of a common GY tire choice behaves. So far my tires have been handling pretty much the same as they did on the old 7.5" TRD wheels.

Oh, I'm running my tires at 44 psi normally so taking your measurements at that pressure would be awesome. If you're running a different pressure normally I can take measurements at another pressure as well if needed. Also, for reference I'll be using a small level held against the tire sidewall to get the vertical measurement line and a small ruler to measure the distance from the level edge to the rim.

Sound like a plan? May the Schwartz be with You!
 
Since it was brought up... it does not appear to be an issue, but utahsooner, how do the 285's run on the 7in wheels? In the pictures they don't appear to bulge out very much at all. any rubbing?

So far so good. Truck handles pretty much the same as it did before. Tires are in the same position they were with the old TRD rims so plenty of clearance on the backside. Didnt't have any rubbing issues before and nothing new now. Bulge isn't much different than it was before on the 7.5" wheels -- per the other post I'll take some measurements to quantify the bulge vs 285 tires on a 7.5" wheel over the weekend.
 
[MENTION=108965]cowtown[/MENTION], at the risk of taking this thread into a "who's bulge is bigger" nosedive, complete with obligatory Spaceballs references, can we compare tire bulge measurements of your 265s vs. my LT285s? (are yours the LT or P rated versions?)

I also have my old LT285 Duratracs (with ~45k miles on them) mounted on my stock 7.5" wide TE rims and was going to do a bulge measurement, both on the truck under load and with no load, so I can get a rough comparison between how the tires mount up on the new 7" and old 7.5" rims. Obviously there will be more bulge on the new 7" rim but I'm guessing it's not more than 1/4" or so. Not that it makes it ideal to run 285 tires on a 7" rim, but all the research I've been doing the past few days indicates:

1) it's a pretty common practice (my local tire shop confirmed this and said they didn't have any concerns with my setup)
2) at worst the center tread will likely wear a bit faster than the shoulder tread.

Doubt this will put to rest the 285s on a 7" rim debate but it'll at least give us some real data of how different sizes of a common GY tire choice behaves. So far my tires have been handling pretty much the same as they did on the old 7.5" TRD wheels.

Oh, I'm running my tires at 44 psi normally so taking your measurements at that pressure would be awesome. If you're running a different pressure normally I can take measurements at another pressure as well if needed. Also, for reference I'll be using a small level held against the tire sidewall to get the vertical measurement line and a small ruler to measure the distance from the level edge to the rim.

Sound like a plan? May the Schwartz be with You!


So, [MENTION=53475]UtahSooner[/MENTION], now you see that evil will always triumph, because good is dumb...

But seriously, I'll give you a little info, and then I guess you'll have to do some 'splainin' before I can answer the rest of your question.

I can tell you that my Duratracs are definitely LT-metric, load range E. I also do my daily driving with the tires inflated to 50 psi. To me, the truck just handles better that way. When I first bought the tires, I started out running them at 32 psi, and the truck had a weird, "floaty" feeling at highway speeds. Alignment was in spec, and I couldn't figure it out until [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] and [MENTION=68685]Ducmonsta[/MENTION] suggested that I check my tire pressure. I read up on the tire specs and started experimenting with how they handled at different pressures and wound up settling on 50 psi as my default for regular road driving.

Back to your question. I've never measured bulge before (insert joke here). What method are you using (absolutely insert joke here)?

Let me know exactly what measurements you're looking for, and I'll get you some data.
 
From where?

Dealer or website?

Website associated with a dealer.

The rep there has been nothing short of amazing to deal with, as is the price.

The wheels are on the way to them now, and will be sent to us tomorrow. Once I have our tracking number, I'll post who we ordered from and our contact over there.

Just want to make sure they actually get shipped first...
 
Since we're in an aftermarket wheel thread, I've got a quick question. Definitely not trying to hijack here---just figured I could get some quick feedback.

What do y'all generally do after replacing your OEM wheels? Do you hang on to the originals in case you want to run them again in the future? Do you immediately post them on the classified board? Any of you ever sold your originals and then regretted it later for any reason?
 

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