Inner tie rod ends... bushings?

sundrix

New member
Just a day or two ago I put in some new brake pads (long story about those, short story don't get your pads from autozone even if you get the "high quality" ones), new lower ball joints, and new outer tie rod ends.

Earlier today I take it in to get the alignment, and they say there's still a bad part, the left inner tie rod, and they can't properly perform an alignment. Obviously that needs to be replaced (might as well do them both, no sense in doing one side and having the other go bad 5,000 miles later).

My question is, while I'm in there doing that, is there other things I should look at or replace? I've heard the bushings are a good idea (and fairly cheap) and a new bushing is going to give me tighter steering than an old. On freeway speeds especially, but even around town to a certain extent, the steering has felt a little loosey goosey.

The shop also said I have a leaking rack and pinion, and thinks I need to replace the whole thing. I don't know about that, I keep pretty good maintenance on my truck since I've owned it, and other than a little bit loose or shakey steering at high speeds, there are no signs of that. No puddles, no weird noises when steering, and the power steering fluid is as full as it was a year ago. I would think if I had a leak the fluid would be going down (at least a little), but just to be safe I drained some fluid out and put in some lucas power steering sealant stuff that is supposed to help seal any seal leaks.

So, this coming Wednesday (weather permitting), I'm going to put in some new inner tie rod ends, anything else I should be checking or changing in there? Not anything too expensive, that's gonna have to wait for the next round of repairs/mods.

Thanks in advance. I don't know if I could do half the mechanical things I've done without having this site to help with all the write ups and what not! A viable tool indeed.

1999 4Runner 4WD v6 155k miles
 
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unless you live pretty close to the alignment shop, you might consider having them replace the ITRE's.
the toe will be way out if you change them.
if they do it, then can align it at the same time.
 
When changing my ITRs, I had no problems the toe changing but I may have gotten lucky.

A big pipe wrench will be your friend in getting them off and on, along with a punch and hammer for the position washer.

If you have the $$$, and in pulling the boot off you see the rack leaking, get a Toy reman one.
 
Yeah I could consider having them do it, but the shop is barely 1 mile away, if that. Not to mention I like trying to do as much work on my own as possible (or with the help of a seasoned dad lol).

That may end up being the route I go though depending on what kind of warranty they do/don't offer on their parts/labor.
 
Yeah I could consider having them do it, but the shop is barely 1 mile away, if that. Not to mention I like trying to do as much work on my own as possible (or with the help of a seasoned dad lol).

That may end up being the route I go though depending on what kind of warranty they do/don't offer on their parts/labor.

Ya just do them yourself. You can put a mark on the threads right at the base on the nut and then mark the new tie rod in the same spot
 
And just in case I do find I have some power steering fluid leaking, are there any seals or something along that line I can replace down there to help? Or am I going to have to replace the whole rack as little ceasar mentioned?
 
That seal kit sounds good to me, I'm not sure I would exactly know how to replace them all without also buying a repair manual, unless there is some type of a write up for it on here or yotatech
 
I was told my steering rack needed to possibly be replaced by a shop as well because they noticed some leakage... I told them I'd think about it and after getting the truck remembered I just changed the motor oil a couple days earlier... the filter spins on right above the steering box so I think the leaking they saw was just remnant motor oil... took off the brush guard under there and wiped down the box and let sit for a few days.... no leakage.... my 2 cents
 
Interesting.. I may have to push my repair date back to Saturday and take a look at that as well as a few other things. Although I guess I could do the ITREs tomorrow, since those (at least the one) are bad. Then again maybe I should wait and do it all at ones, will need alignment after ITREs and will probably need one after replacing seals too if I end up doing that.

Gahhh I just hate waiting around, I want to get it done!! But tomorrow when I'm not working and have some more daylight I will take a look at it and see what's up I guess.
 
You have a lot of potential engine oil leak spots that can make there way down to the rack and make it look like the rack is leaking.

If only your drivers side ITRE is "bad" it can also be the internal bushing in the steering rack that is worn/loose. I tightened mine on a regular basis until I finally replaced the parts.

2000 TOYOTA 4RUNNER Parts - Carson Toyota/Scion/Lexus Ultimate OEM Parts

15-18 in that diagram is what I am referring too.

I had noticeable play in the ITRE until i removed the boot and noticed it was the rack that had the play not the tie rod.
 
I was told my steering rack needed to possibly be replaced by a shop as well because they noticed some leakage... I told them I'd think about it and after getting the truck remembered I just changed the motor oil a couple days earlier... the filter spins on right above the steering box so I think the leaking they saw was just remnant motor oil... took off the brush guard under there and wiped down the box and let sit for a few days.... no leakage.... my 2 cents

To know if you have a leak in your rack you have to take the boots off. You might not have any oil leaking from the boots, but you could take them off and find a pool of oil
 
Stick figure, thanks for the input. In this picture, what you are referring to would be what I circled in red? If so do you know what it should be torqued to?

Also, circled in blue, looks like the boot is a bit darker, possible fluid inside (the other side is similar but down lower). Sorry for crappy image quality, phone was only camera I had ready.

 
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