inner tie rod ends vs. re-built steering rack

152 Sumo

New member
My 97 (SR5, 4wd, V6) has worn inner tie rod ends. The wear isn't too bad: no significant pull or play in the steering wheel. Tires aren't showing irregular wear either. The only reason I found out that they were loose is when I was paying super close attention to the brakes after the pads got replaced. It was pulling a little bit when I would hit the brakes, so I took it back and they told me the inner tie rods were worn.

Anyway, at the shop I took it to, I was told that I could replace the worn tie rod ends for $330 or so. He also mentioned that I could have the whole steering rack re-done for $680. Not a new rack, but my original rack rebuilt/refurbished.

Has anyone had this problem? I would appreciate some advice from some of you experienced folks. I trust the mechanic that I took it too, but in my little mind, it sounds like "your water pump needs to be replaced, so let's replace the whole engine" ( a little extreme, I know).

I love my 4Runner and I want to do the best thing so it lasts me a long time.

By the way: mileage is almost 180k

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
If your steering rack isn't leaking I'd say just replace the Inner TRE's. The job is easily done in under 1.5 hrs by yourself. Each OME TRE would cost you about 100bux depending which Steelership you go to. Or you could go to Napa Auto and pick up them up at 70bux each. (The Napa ones are also made in Japan)

It does sound a little extreme to rebuild your Steering Rack if you have no other issues other than a worn out TRE.
 
If your steering rack isn't leaking I'd say just replace the Inner TRE's. The job is easily done in under 1.5 hrs by yourself. Each OME TRE would cost you about 100bux depending which Steelership you go to. Or you could go to Napa Auto and pick up them up at 70bux each. (The Napa ones are also made in Japan)

It does sound a little extreme to rebuild your Steering Rack if you have no other issues other than a worn out TRE.

That is what I was thinking. I trust the mechanic, but he never really told me that there was problems with the actual rack. It was more like, IF there are issues with the rack, it makes more sense to fix everything while replacing the TREs. I might go back and get him to commit: is there a problem with the rack or not?
 
Replacing a steering rack?

Sumo, if you are even remotely adept with hand tools, you can replace the tie rods yourself and save much money in labor expense. When a rack goes bad, it is usually because of leaking seals, which show up in the form of ruptured bellows and/or difficulty steering due to loss of hydraulic pressure. If you're not constantly refilling your power steering reservoir, or noticing puddles on the ground, I would leave the rack alone and just replace the tie rods. (Replace in pairs) And FWIW, I have priced re-manufactured racks at the big three retail chains here for @ $350-375. If you are so inclined, buy a reman rack that includes the inners and you're already money ahead. Replacing a steering rack on this truck is a relatively simple procedure, and I always recommend oneself doing automotive repairs whenever possible/safe, as the experience gained with every repair brings a more intimate knowledge of your vehicle, and has the welcomed side effect of more $ in your pocket. Invest in a CHILTONS manual for your 4Runner! Have an alignment performed by a competent facility if you decide to replace the rack and/or rods. And finally, have FUN enjoying your truck! :party:
 
Sumo, if you are even remotely adept with hand tools, you can replace the tie rods yourself and save much money in labor expense. When a rack goes bad, it is usually because of leaking seals, which show up in the form of ruptured bellows and/or difficulty steering due to loss of hydraulic pressure. If you're not constantly refilling your power steering reservoir, or noticing puddles on the ground, I would leave the rack alone and just replace the tie rods. (Replace in pairs) And FWIW, I have priced re-manufactured racks at the big three retail chains here for @ $350-375. If you are so inclined, buy a reman rack that includes the inners and you're already money ahead. Replacing a steering rack on this truck is a relatively simple procedure, and I always recommend oneself doing automotive repairs whenever possible/safe, as the experience gained with every repair brings a more intimate knowledge of your vehicle, and has the welcomed side effect of more $ in your pocket. Invest in a CHILTONS manual for your 4Runner! Have an alignment performed by a competent facility if you decide to replace the rack and/or rods. And finally, have FUN enjoying your truck! :party:

Thanks. I have thought about doing my own repairs. I am no stranger to tools since I used to be an aircraft engine mechanic (7 years in USMC, and a few more years at an engine overhaul facility). Ironically, I am very intimidated by auto repairs. I didn't grow up tinkering with cars like a lot of guys I knew growing up. I have always paid someone else to do the work. You are right though, if I would just take the time and read a chiltons manual, I am sure that I could do a lot myself. If I can learn how to work on gas turbine engines, I am sure I can learn how to fix the 4rnr. I just gotta stop being a wimp about it.
 
Engine mechanic! Get under that truck and get dirty! I just had my inners replaced at my shop performing my much needed alignment. Advance sells them for $30 ea and my shop had both installed in 1hr. If u go the same way I did your looking around (if it's $70hr) $60 parts+$70 install+$70 alignment=$200 n change. That's the first time I've ever let a shop put parts on my truck, any car I've ever owned for that matter. I can't do an alignment and the new inner ends had to be in before they could align it. Alignment done and I'm happy.
 
I am almost sure of it now, Im going to get a Chilton's, read up, prepare ahead with tools and parts, set aside a sunday, and get-r-done.

First, though, I think I might take it to that shop that recommended the rack refurbish and have them tell me the actual state of the rack, not what-if, or it might go bad.
 
Sumo- Don't worry about being nervous on doing your own work. I was the same way, but slightly different situation. I grew up fixing motorcycles and then on the auto side was always just the TB(tool B*tch). I still have a hard time getting myself to do electrical since that was what my brother did and always pushed me aside to do the job. But heck if you are good enough to keep heavy objects running and from falling out of the sky it should a piece of cake for a land based vehicle.
 
quick question if your pulling tie rod ends from a salvage how do you check to make sure they are good? i got a line of a stock unit for around $100 but am unsure of condition, it's already pulled so i can;t chjeck the play by just grabbing the wheel and i think without the wheel i won;t be able to get enough torque on the rotor to see play in the tie rods.


also if you buy a remand rack you only get the inners, at least that's what my dealership showed, personally i need to replace the inners and outers and my truck has 223K on it so i'm thinking a new rack from a truck with lesser miles on it may not be a bad idea at this time. you know, it's just one less thing to have to replace further down the road......whudda think?
 
Using old steering parts?

Hey IzzardKing, I was waiting for others to chime in, but no takers yet so I will offer an opinion. Do not waste your time and money on a salvage yard/used rack and/or tie rods! There is a saying that goes..."Don't spend good money after bad." If you are going to do the job, do it with new parts so you can have confidence they won't fail 10 miles down the road. There are a host of problems you will experience when using parts that are wear items, such as bad seals, bushings, bladders...rusted joints you can't see. Tie rods have a tendency to get damaged when removed, and o-ring seals dry out and fail from non-use. Ask yourself this...would you put used brakes on your truck? How about belts and hoses? Tires and shocks? I'm not trying to be preachy, just offering what I believe is sage advice. Consider buying new parts. They are not that expensive relative to the headaches you will encounter going the used route. Maybe others here will back me on this.
 
Hey IzzardKing, I was waiting for others to chime in, but no takers yet so I will offer an opinion. Do not waste your time and money on a salvage yard/used rack and/or tie rods! There is a saying that goes..."Don't spend good money after bad." If you are going to do the job, do it with new parts so you can have confidence they won't fail 10 miles down the road. There are a host of problems you will experience when using parts that are wear items, such as bad seals, bushings, bladders...rusted joints you can't see. Tie rods have a tendency to get damaged when removed, and o-ring seals dry out and fail from non-use. Ask yourself this...would you put used brakes on your truck? How about belts and hoses? Tires and shocks? I'm not trying to be preachy, just offering what I believe is sage advice. Consider buying new parts. They are not that expensive relative to the headaches you will encounter going the used route. Maybe others here will back me on this.

used rotors yes
brake pads no
belts yes
hoses no
tires yes
shocks yes

lol, i know what your saying but if it's a price difference of $100 vs. $600-700 for a part that is easily removed and replaced i have to at least think about it, as i said the donor has way less miles then mine and i need both inners and both outers tie rod ends, it might be viable option i i can check things out thoroughly enough, after restoring old cars that were some parts are no longer made I'm quite use to using salvaged parts from donor vehicles and most of the time if you know what to look for your ok with going with a used unit for most things, but just like you said even sometimes when you know what to look for and everything checks out you can go 10 miles down the road and have it break, but then that can happen with new parts as well....less likely but it happens.

over all i agree with you and my basic logic was i got 230K out of my steering rack and TRE's and it's going to cost around $600-800 for a new unit and TRES all around (from the factory) there's a donor truck that had 53K on it and they want $100 for the steering rack complete, if i can check the TRE's to make sure they aren't damaged from the accident i might and be able to get 50-150K out of it, which is another year of driving at least, you see my rational here, if it was a quick wearing part i would be less inclined to think of it as a viable option but seeing as how alot of people don't replace these until they are well past the 200K mark there's a good chance everything is still working great.
 
I would not trust any other aftermarket TRE's. If you purchase them through Advance I believe they are Moog's and come with a Lifetime warranty. I would only purchase OEM or Napa's(made in Japan). Theres about a 20$ difference between the two. But yea, Do not purchase them from Advance, Vatozone or PepBoys. They will break on you.
 
Remanufactured?

Just an FYI...the re-manufactured racks are OEM Toyota, hence the reason for the core charge or the requirement of an old unit being traded in. The reman company takes your old rack from you, rebuilds/replaces all of the necessary internals to OE spec's, installs new inners and boots, then re-sells it to the next guy. It IS a Toyota steering rack. Federal-Mogul (Moog) is one of the biggest and most respected names in the auto parts industry. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using them as a substitute over "factory" replacements. Also, the retails chains such as those earlier mentioned do in fact sell some quality parts, just under their "house brand" labels to avoid the expense of manufacturer trademark royalties. Heck, tire retailers do it all of the time...the "Destiny Dakota" is a Cooper at Pep Boys and the "Liberator A/T" is a BFG/Uniroyal at WalMart. This is of course, not to be confused with the "value" line of in-house brands which you may find of questionable quality, especially if the price is ridiculously low.
 
old unit being traded in. The reman company takes your old rack from you, rebuilds/replaces all of the necessary internals to OE spec's, i Federal-Mogul (Moog) is one of the biggest and most respected names in the auto parts industry. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using them as a substitute over "factory" replacements. Also, the retails chains such as those earlier mentioned do in fact sell some quality parts, just under their "house brand" labels to avoid the expense of manufacturer trademark royalties. Heck, tire retailers do it all of the time...the "Destiny Dakota" is a Cooper at Pep Boys and the "Liberator A/T" is a BFG/Uniroyal at WalMart. This is of course, not to be confused with the "value" line of in-house brands which you may find of questionable quality, especially if the price is ridiculously low.


yeah i know how remanned units work, the question though is what are the internals replaced with and do they replace everything or just parts worn past past spec, everything on the the toyota oem steering rack in new except the housing and i'm not too sure of moog, people have complained about some of their yota parts ball joint in particular, but do trust the company as i have used some of thier parts before, but the thing is you can't just buy into brand names, a company can do a few things very well but not everything great, i'm not opposed to going after market if i can get enough good feedback on the particular part i'm looking at, there are a few things on our trucks that are recommended to be replaced by oem only, and i don;t know if the steering rack and TRE's are one of them.

and i know what your talking about value lines, you can buy bocsh germany,japan and china all are the same exact parts but are manufactured at different places and the quality difference between the plants is amazing,
let me just say stay away from mexico,china and south american made parts, lol

so that said, have you personally used the steering rack? how many miles and how's it holding up? as in the end that's all that really matters, if it's a good solid remanned unit that will last i'll be happy regardless of where i buy it.
 
sounds like a deal. i was just quoted 1650 at a toyota dealership. i just bought the truck, also a 97 with 112000.
 
sounds like a deal. i was just quoted 1650 at a toyota dealership. i just bought the truck, also a 97 with 112000.

LOL, i'm sorry, but 1.6K is engine or transmission money not steering rack, you got way over quoted on that it's a $600 part from my dealership which tends to be 10% higher then most other toyota dealerships, like if a guy here says i got this from my dealer for $30 it costs me 38-40 at mine, so 1.6k is far above what i would pay at my dealer, they are charging you 1.2K in labor, which is no where near right even at $100 an hour for labour that makes it a 10 hour job, which there is no way and heck it should take a yota tech 10 hours to swap out a steering rack.....
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,113
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top