Installation help for sounds and security

[99yota4]

So i'm going to wire up an amp and sub and install a security/remote start all at once while the dash is all ripped out. I was wondering where is the best place to run the power wire from the battery to the inside of the 4runner for the amp? I don't want to drill any holes. Also, which part of the 4runner is best to route these wires from the front of the 4runner to the cargo area? Thanks!

If anyone knows anything about the clifford 50.7x security system and installation, please chime in your knowledge. Thanks!!

 

[CajunRunner]

In my 3rd Gen, there are two large rubber grommets in the firewall that are capable of accomodating at least the 2 gauge power cable that I'm using. One is on the driver's side where the hood release cable goes through, just a few inches in from the fender. The other is exactly opposite on the passenger's side. You can see both grommets from the engine compartment. From the inside, you can only see the driver's side grommet. The passenger's side is hidden up the firewall behind the air conditioner/heater blower.

I ran my 2 gauge through the passenger's side since my amps are under the passenger's seat. Basically came off the battery straight back to the firewall, then across the firewall lip to the passenger's side. It was tricky blindly snaking it through behind the blower, so I used a wire puller and that made it easy. Once through the firewall, you should be able to run your cable under the doorsills to the cargo bay with no problem if they're less than 2 gauge. Once you get up to 2 gauge or 1/0 gauge, I suggest test fitting it under the trim panels before deciding which side to use.

 

[99yota4]

CajunRunner, Thanks!

I found a grommet through the door into the cabin. I just installed it before I read your post. I basically went from the battery straight back to the hood pivot and down into the left front fender. I grabbed it when it was visible from the driver seat and there is a grommet for the door electrical wires to go into the kick panel. I removed that grommet and shoved the wires through there and pushed the grommet back in. it's a tight snug fit and I haven't had any problems yet. I'm pushing almost 1500 watts and my lights are dimming like crazy.

I was looking into a cap and hopefully do the "big three" upgrade. Does anyone know how to do the Big three upgrade? I know its basically 0 gauge wire with 2 grounds from the battery, one for the chassis and one to the engine block. ANd the positive wire needs to go to he alternator. Where on the alternator do you connect this? Thanks.

 

[CajunRunner]

Glad you found a route for your power wire. Just make sure there's no chance for it to get pinched or chaffed against sharp metal...that would be bad.

I've done two of the Big 3. There are plenty of videos and writeups on the web about how to do it. Just search for Big 3. I replaced my battery-to-fender ground cable and added an engine-to-firewall cable, both 2 gauge. Battery negative to fender was easy. For the engine block, I came off the existing ground point between the right rear of the block and the firewall. There's a hidden screw back there that holds the factory ground strap on that was fairly easy to get at with a standard box end wrench. I found that JL master ground lugs screw right into several unused, threaded bolt holes on the sides of the engine compartment. JL Audio - Master Ground Lug I used a Dremel tool with a wire brush attachment to scruff away the paint around the holes and screwed these in, which allowed me to use ring terminals on the ground cables. They're solid as a rock and saved me from using self tapping sheet metal screws or some other invasive method of ground point attachment. I have not upgraded my alternator-to-battery positive cable yet. I'm not sure if I will because my stereo goes louder than my ears can handle and the lights don't dim. I'm running 1,350 watts, but it's all from Class D amps which supposedly don't draw as much amperage as Class A and B amps.

If you add a battery positive-to-alternator cable, it attaches to the alternator under a grey plastic cap that covers the factory connection. That gray cover pops off with a little effort and there's a small nut (maybe 10mm) that holds the factory power wire on. At least that's how it is on a '97.

 

[99yota4]

Sweet sounds good CajunRunner. I'm gonna go to the audio shop and get some fatty wires and try the BIG 3 upgrade. If this doesn't fix it i'll try to get a cap and hopefully that takes care of my problems.

On a side note, I can't figure out why the 4wd indicator doesn't turn on when I engage the 4wd hi and low. do you think it's a dead bulb behind the instrument panel? The shifter lights never go on either as well as the left side of the climate control. THis was the way it was when I bought the vehicle. The clocks out too. I'm kinda worried that the instrument panel might have been swapped out because on some 99's I see that the 4wd indicator is in the middle top. But my 4wd indicator light is on the far right bottom.

OH! sorry i just thought of something else. My check engine light turned on after i drove my t4r hard to see what kinda power she had. Soon after the check engine light went out and i went to a buddy's place and read the code. It was P0420. Its the Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) error. Should I be worried about this? I already reset the check engine light so it's not on.

 

[CajunRunner]

Can't help on the indicator lights that don't work.

Post those questions over on the 3rd gen T4Rs page. I'm not sure how often the gear-heads check this audio/electronics page. You might find somebody over there with experience on the subject.