Installing Fridge Power Kills Remote Door locks

[JAKSON]

I installed a Dometic 50 qt on a new dedicated 12v power outlet (Blue Sea 15A). It works great but every time I plug it in to the 12v the remote door lock stop working right. I need to push the remote button several times and/or have to get really close to it. It can take almost a minute to get a reaction from the remote. As soon as I unplug the fridge it works fine.

The outlet is wired from a Blue Sea 12 circuit panel under the hood direct to the outlet with 8 gauge wire. The ground is to the bolt that holds the 110v inverter down, also 8 gauge. I did disconnect the inverter just to make sure that could not be interfering.

I thought at first it might have had a strange reaction to low voltage as it did drain the battery over a weekend test (which showed I really need a new battery). But last weekend I left the battery disconnected for 2 days and charged it fully, same results.

I have tested power all the way from the battery to the end of the supplied power cord and there is almost no drop in voltage, maybe 0.1.

The only thing I have not been able to try is to plug an inverter into the socket and power the fridge and something else through that to see if I get the same troubles. I am going to try and find mine tonight and test that.

In the meantime, does anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Hltoppr]

My first option would be to replace the remote battery with a new one and see if that helps. My remote (2016 model) is kinda picky with distance depending upon obstructions and line of sight....

Just to make sure I've got this correct: You are running off the stock, single, battery...then to a Blue Sea fuse block, to 8ga. wire and to the fridge, which you have set on the 12v?

(Not 8 ga wire to an inverter, then running the fridge on 110V?)

-H-

 

[LOLSNOW]

Could be one of two things.

The draw from your fridge is causing a dip in voltage that doesn't place nice with the remote/power lock system.

Bad chassis ground via bolt. Did you sand down the metal to get a clean ground?


Some suggestions would be to run a temporarily dedicated ground to your fridge and see what happens? Should be easy to do if you have some 16AWG wire laying around just run it on the outside. Personally I dont like doing chassis grounds so far away from the battery so for my fridge (52L) I ran my own dedicated pos and neg cables to the rear where the bottle jack used to be.

 

[e60ral]

plug the fridge into the inverter and see what happens

 

[JAKSON]

My first option would be to replace the remote battery with a new one and see if that helps. My remote (2016 model) is kinda picky with distance depending upon obstructions and line of sight....

Just to make sure I've got this correct: You are running off the stock, single, battery...then to a Blue Sea fuse block, to 8ga. wire and to the fridge, which you have set on the 12v?

(Not 8 ga wire to an inverter, then running the fridge on 110V?)

-H-

I did replace the remote battery, and used the other remote.

Yes it is running on the 12v plug.

Could be one of two things.

The draw from your fridge is causing a dip in voltage that doesn't place nice with the remote/power lock system.

Bad chassis ground via bolt. Did you sand down the metal to get a clean ground?


Some suggestions would be to run a temporarily dedicated ground to your fridge and see what happens? Should be easy to do if you have some 16AWG wire laying around just run it on the outside. Personally I dont like doing chassis grounds so far away from the battery so for my fridge (52L) I ran my own dedicated pos and neg cables to the rear where the bottle jack used to be.

I originally thought voltage, but it does it with a full battery and it does not do it with with my lights on bright.

I run grounds back for ham and cb but never have for lights and fridge. I will try a different one and see.

plug the fridge into the inverter and see what happens

As soon as I can find it tonight.

 

[reidbailey]

You said you ran your battery dead. Chance it could be toast. Do you have a set of jumper cables so that you can add an extra battery and rule it out?


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[SSDuck8]

In the meantime, does anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks for your help.

What's funny is I noticed the same exact thing this weekend when I finally mounted my box, slide, and fridge in for the first time. What I did was use both plugs in the back of the fridge and then when I was at home or in camp, plug the fridge into the a 110 and then when traveling, let the 12v run. When the battery was plugged into the 110, the truck still did not want to unlock. I had to get right up to it or press the button a ton. I did use the spare key as well as changed a battery and still the same result. I am not an electrician by any means so before anyone blasts my method, please understand this was a temporary set up to show the fiancé that it was a great idea to get a fridge. (After she had cold watermelon Saturday evening in the heat of the day, I got the "nod of approval."

I am interested as to see what others say. Here is my set up.

 

[Hltoppr]

One thing I've found about these newer Runners is that they're somewhat sensitive to electrical contacts, and I'm going to assume extra electrical draws as well. I've driven single battery rigs with fridges before, and never noticed any loss in remote lock activation, but if a battery isn't at full charge, or keeping full charge...it's gonna be an issue.

(I've owned a British rocket ship that would go nuts if the battery wasn't at full charge....)

Try disconnecting the secondary Blue Sea fuse block from the main battery...essentially returning it to stock form, making sure the battery is at full charge, and see if the symptoms go away.

-H-

 

[JAKSON]

Well I kept thinking it only happened on the 12 volt plug so I plugged the fridge into 110v at work. Same exact symptoms as [MENTION=137767]SSDuck8[/MENTION]. I guess I never locked it in my garage....

Every time it is powered up by anything the remote does not work right. So only thing I can think of is the power supply or something on the fridge is creating a field that disrupts the signal from the remote???

Does anyone else with a fridge of any kind have symptoms like this?

Not sure where to go next.

One thing I've found about these newer Runners is that they're somewhat sensitive to electrical contacts, and I'm going to assume extra electrical draws as well. I've driven single battery rigs with fridges before, and never noticed any loss in remote lock activation, but if a battery isn't at full charge, or keeping full charge...it's gonna be an issue.

I agree most new vehicles are sensitive, that's why I thought it was a voltage issue. The plan was to go dual batteries eventually, but i figure I can run one for now just needs to be new.

 

[jakerunner]

What's funny is I noticed the same exact thing this weekend when I finally mounted my box, slide, and fridge in for the first time. What I did was use both plugs in the back of the fridge and then when I was at home or in camp, plug the fridge into the a 110 and then when traveling, let the 12v run. When the battery was plugged into the 110, the truck still did not want to unlock.

Based on this, that sounds like the fridge itself must be creating interference with the remote sensor. When I took the side panels off the cargo area of my 2016 SR5, I noticed that one of the sensors is mounted above the left wheel well (I'm not sure if its the only one) See picture below

Good luck

 

[e60ral]

Try changing the channel the fridge uses for the wireless monitor, should be able to do it in the settings on the fridge

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[JAKSON]

Try changing the channel the fridge uses for the wireless monitor, should be able to do it in the settings on the fridge

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I have the WIFI off as I don't use it. Not sure if there is something else to change.


I will definitely look at moving the receiver next time I can get in the panel.
Thanks for the picture [MENTION=150728]jakerunner[/MENTION].

At this point it is just really annoying but doesn't stop me from using. Maybe I will get the fridge cover and line it with a Mylar blanket or some thing. I guess I could always try aluminum foil just to see if it blocks the interference.

 

[JAKSON]

Well the foil does stop the interference. Remote works great with just that one piece. Now to figure how to do that but unseen.

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[jakerunner]

Well the foil does stop the interference. Remote works great with just that one piece. Now to figure how to do that but unseen.

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If someone wants to donate their fridge to me I would be happy to find a solution.:tongue1:

I would be curious to know if lining the interior of the left interior panel would block enough of the interference?

 

[JAKSON]

If someone wants to donate their fridge to me I would be happy to find a solution.:tongue1:

I would be curious to know if lining the interior of the left interior panel would block enough of the interference?

I think that would block the receiver. I did try some just outside of it. I am sure the interference is from the power supplies used. So smaller pieces will block the source........at least it think so.

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[JeremyB]

Well the foil does stop the interference. Remote works great with just that one piece. Now to figure how to do that but unseen.

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Good job!

 

[Leucifer]

Interesting. I would have never suspected interference.

I would have put cash on the power draw just being too much. There's so many ways for a circuit to run into problems, like maybe the fridge was drawing more power than it should.

The best solution, in my opinion, was the one suggested to change the channel/frequency. I find it a little shocking that they're interfering, but hey, consumer electronics for ya!

 

[JAKSON]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GEK9YT2/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I37BVF4YU2TVU3&colid=1PB58MYY14HAJ

There is a cover for under $50 and the description say aluminum lined polyester. I will probably order that next week and see if that does the trick.

 

[JAKSON]

Quick update since I hate it when people don't report back.

Cover arrived and put on. Door locks work just fine again.

 

[mrblah]

it probably was a good idea to get the fridge cover anyway to insulate the fridge, even if u didnt have interference.

I use a cover on my arb fridge just to keep power draw to a minimum, to keep your extra power cords and instruction booklet in the extra pockets just in case.