installing new pads

[gilligan79]

I am unsure on how to remove the caliper being that it has the sold line attached. Do most people just unscrew the line and bleed their brakes afterwards.

 

[Uneek]

What year is your 4Runner? If you have a 4th gen (2003+), the caliper does not need to be removed to replace the front brake pads. You just need to remove the pins from above and the pads slide out.

 

[gilligan79]

05.. What would be the best way for compressing the pistons then? Sorry I am a newbie at the four piston calipers.

 

[Uneek]

I use a C-clamp against the tab holes on the top of the pads and the side of the calipers to push the pistons back. Make sure you have the filler cap on master cylinder opened.

I've seen others use a screwdriver and pry the pistons back against the rotor as well. I find this method a bit more risky as the piston boots can be damaged.

 

[Kmvreter]

I use a C-clamp against the tab holes on the top of the pads and the side of the calipers to push the pistons back. Make sure you have the filler cap on master cylinder opened.

I've seen others use a screwdriver and pry the pistons back against the rotor as well. I find this method a bit more risky as the piston boots can be damaged.

As said, don't use a screwdriver.
After you pull the pins leave the old pads in. Then you can use a channel lock plier at the corner where the pin hole is located. They slide back real easy if the piston isn't stuck and I didn't find a need to open the filler cap. I only used a C-clamp on the stuborn one.

 

[oilburner]

When compressing the caliper pistons, I would suggest opening the bleeders. Forcing brake fluid backwards through the ABS system can damage it. Then just top off the brake fluid an bleed and you should be good to go.

 

[gilligan79]

I did it today. Went well took longer than usual, but I will have it down next time. The noise I had is gone. A big Thanks to everyone.

Now time for spark plugs and rear diff fluid. any suggestions on plugs?

 

[Kmvreter]

I did it today. Went well took longer than usual, but I will have it down next time. The noise I had is gone. A big Thanks to everyone.

Glad to see it went well. Now for some questions:
About the noise; were you worn down to the indicators hitting or was it a different noise?
How did you end up compressing the pistons (any sign of resistance/freezing?) Did you end up bleeding the lines?
How many shims per pad?

 

[gilligan79]

It was a diffrent noise. It was almost a thud when backing or when moving forward. More so when backing. The dealer told me it was cheap pads were recently installed and to take it back to how installed them. I told him I did not know who installed them that I bought the 4 runner used. He did not listen and repeated him self once again. Did not offer to put on new toyota pads.
So...I replaced them and sure enough to my surpirse the sound was gone. I replaced them with wagner themo quiets.

The pads had 2 shims on each on with a rubber backing and one was solid.

I opened the master cylinder and compressed with a c clamp I only went in maybe a 16th of an inch it was just enough I could not get the new pads in place.

 

[DiskDoctr]

Compressing pistons

If you are planning to change the brakes AND rotors, don't be afraid of using a screwdriver, *as long as you do not insert the tip against the pistons.

Always pry the brake pads against the body of the caliper or against the rotor. NEVER pry between the pads and the piston.

If you tear a seal on a caliper, they can be repaired inexpensively, but are a pain. Slippery and tricky...

Oh, and ALWAYS pry very SLOWLY with the cap removed from the reservoir. And keep in mind that as you pry the top, the bottom piston may push out. You can pry in the middle to help avoid that problem.

A c-clamp on the pad against the pistons is best once removed, as mentioned by others above.

- DiskDoctr