Installing SS rear brake lines, is there more then 2?

[black325is]

I'm preparing my 4runner for towing and was swapping out my brake lines to stainless steel ones. So far I have changed the fronts to StopTech 950.44007 and rear to StopTech 950.44507

Now, I've noticed 2 more rubber lines going to the rear axle towards the middle of the car, threaded ends on both sides, looked just like the front ones but couple inches longer. After doing some research and calling StopTech directly, I couldn't get a clear answer why those are not swapped or what would be the part # if one decided to swap them

By the way, I have a 2008 Limited V8 with FJ stock suspension, so no extended lines required.

If anybody has any info on the additional lines for the rear, please let me know.

Thanks!

 

[JacksonRally]

Yes, 6 pieces total.

 

[NuclearN8]

Goodridge sells all 6 pieces

 

[black325is]

Thanks for your reply's, found what I'm looking for!

 

[DisguisedRope]

Thanks for your reply's, found what I'm looking for!

Can you share the link of where you found the last two lines?

 

[black325is]

I have found the full kit consisting of Qty (6) lines total here:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...Runner+4wd+Limited&autoYear=2008&autoModClar=

Now I'm trying to find a seller that will split up the kit and sell me just Qty (2) rear lines, so I don't have to remove the lines I've already installed. So far I had no luck. I've tried TireRack, AutoAnything and Ebay.

My other option is to contact StopTech and see if they can provide me with a part # for a line similar to 950.44007 only 2-3 inches longer. Otherwise it's the same with threaded ends on both ends.

I'll keep this thread updated if I have any luck!

 

[NuclearN8]

you could always just buy the goodridge kit, use the two lines you need and sell the others unused in the classifieds.

even cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/Goodridge-2-2...id=1429804433&sr=8-1&keywords=goodridge+21186

 

[DisguisedRope]

Now I'm trying to find a seller that will split up the kit and sell me just Qty (2) rear lines, so I don't have to remove the lines I've already installed. So far I had no luck. I've tried TireRack, AutoAnything and Ebay.

My other option is to contact StopTech and see if they can provide me with a part # for a line similar to 950.44007 only 2-3 inches longer. Otherwise it's the same with threaded ends on both ends.

That's the boat I'm in. I put on the four stoptech/centric stainless lines recently when I did all my rotrs/pads/calipers. Would like to replace the last two rubber lines if I can.

These are the ones I've already replaced:
Front
Amazon.com: Centric 950.44007 Brake Line Kit: Automotive

Rear
http://www.amazon.com/Centric-950-44507-Hydraulic-Brake-Line/dp/B003K3NBPA

 

[daka320]

I have found the full kit consisting of Qty (6) lines total here:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...Runner+4wd+Limited&autoYear=2008&autoModClar=

Now I'm trying to find a seller that will split up the kit and sell me just Qty (2) rear lines, so I don't have to remove the lines I've already installed. So far I had no luck. I've tried TireRack, AutoAnything and Ebay.

My other option is to contact StopTech and see if they can provide me with a part # for a line similar to 950.44007 only 2-3 inches longer. Otherwise it's the same with threaded ends on both ends.

I'll keep this thread updated if I have any luck!

Yes, definitely keep us updated on what you find. I've replaced the same four not realizing there are two more.

 

[95supra]

not trying to hijack this thread but i have a question about the goodridge brake hose kit. I have a 2005 v8 limited with stock ride height. I can get a good deal on the goodridge 2-21186 kit which is the complete kit with 2" extension.
can this kit be used with the stock ride height without issue?

 

[snowboardwcu]

thread resurrection

this thread isn't old enough not to be revived...

I have also purchased the stoptech fronts and rears (950.44007&.44507) and was surprised to see the rears are threaded on both ends. i kind of expected banjos like the fronts, and anticipated the axle/middle lines to be threaded on both ends.

i want to confirm that both the rear sets are threaded on both ends and not banjo fittings.

did anyone find a source for the axle lines? it seems others are using these here but without knowing the connection ends i can't determine if thats correct.

any help helps, thanks.

 

[truckhigh]

yeah, from what i remember they are both threaded...

I'm running these from axle to body on my 4r and have lots of room for travel

FJ Cruiser/4Runner 20" Rear Extended Stainless Steel Brake Lines (D.O.T. Certified)

 

[snowboardwcu]

yeah, from what i remember they are both threaded...

I'm running these from axle to body on my 4r and have lots of room for travel

FJ Cruiser/4Runner 20" Rear Extended Stainless Steel Brake Lines (D.O.T. Certified)

you sir, get a :trophy:

not only does that match the allprooffroad spec buts its waay cheaper. and new vendor to add to my list. thanks a ton.

 

[CruzadoBlanco]

if you need the ones from the frame to the axle metaltech sell ones that are ~20" long and toyotec sells some that are ~15" long or so. mine came with my Metaltech LT kit but they both sell them separately, both roughly $60.00.

 

[ben550]

Any tips for changing out these lines? Do you need to minimize time the lines are disconnected while installing the new lines to minimize risk of getting air in the master cylinder?

 

[mb66]

Replying to an 8 month old question about replacing the center brake lines:

I just spent all of yesterday swapping out the six rubber lines with the Goodridge kit. As Hkollie1 said, this project ranks low on the fun scale (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/220356-goodridge-stainless-brakelines-6-pc-installed.html) .

The center lines, the topic of this thread, is an exercise in "where there's a will, there's a way". I must have spent two hours apiece on those. The only tips I have are to remove the spare, crank the winch cable that holds the spare all the way back up, and have the truck jacked up in the rear as high as safely possible, maybe put a cinderblock under the jack stands if your jack will go that high. I spent way to much time sitting Indian-style bent over under there. Oh, and make sure you have plenty of Advil around before attempting this.

It is a messy job. I don't think there are any shortcuts. If small children are around, expect their vocabulary to be enhanced with what they may overhear.

 

[flipflopnfly]

I saw this thread before I did the rear brake line swap, did it, here's my install. It's with a rear lift but hopefully it will be helpful somewhere down the road:

With a Boss kit rear install, 2" lift coilsprings, I felt the need for extended rear brake lines (the upper lines from frame to rear axle on the driver side by the fuel tank). Extended lines are needed because I removed the rear sway bar.

The additional droop is too much for the stock lines, the stock brake lines are stretched to their max. With the sway bar installed extended lines probably are not needed.

Please note that the Boss RCC2.0 coils stay in place at full droop, and hopefully I don't ruin the Boss shocks by overextending them without the rear swaybar installed. Please comment if that may be a problem.

I used Toytec FJRL14 braided lines. Here's an install method on jackstands, spare tire removed:

- People already know when installing rear lift coils you have to remove the upper brakeline bracket via the 12mm bolt, remove/release the rear swaybar via four 12mm bolts on the axle, or the two 12mm nuts on the swaybar endlinks.
- I first installed the Boss RCC2.0 coils and Boss shocks with Firestone 4107 airbags, reinstalled the upper brakeline bracket 12mm bolt with antiseize.
- Using a 10mm tubing wrench, released the two upper hardline connections.
- Removed the 12mm upper brakeline bracket bolt.
- Dripping brake fluid, quickly as I could I removed the clips holding the stock rubber lines onto the upper bracket. Prying with a flathead screwdriver and needlenose pliers.
- Installed the upper end of the braided lines onto the upper bracket with the new clips provided in the FJRL14 kit
- Finger tightened the upper hard lines onto the upper end of the braided lines, upper bracket still removed, curved the new braided lines up to control the fluid drips some.
- Using the 10mm tubing wrench, released the lower hard brakelines
- Removed the 12mm bolt from the lower brakeline bracket on the axle
- Fully removed the lower hard lines from the lower bracket
- Removed the ABS wire via the plastic clip on the backside of the lower brakeline bracket
- Lower bracket in hand, worked the clips out with a flathead and needlenose, got the stock rubber lines out
- With the lower bracket still out, worked the new clips onto the lower end of the braided lines
- Finger tighten the lower hard lines onto the braided lines
- Put the ABS wire plastic connector into the lower bracket
- Connect the lower brakeline bracket to the axle with the 12mm bolt using antiseize
- The FJRL14 kit has a nut on the line so you can twist the braided line to orient it as you please to move the line to where you want before you fully tighten the 10mm hard lines
- Torque down the 10mm hard lines
- Torque down the upper and lower 12mm bracket bolts
- OCD is to put wire loom on the braided lines just in case they rub

I'm comfortable with removing the rear swaybar because I put 4107 airbags in, they're taller bags to compensate for the lift and aired up they compensate for sway. YMMV.

 

[Bumbo]

Replying to an 8 month old question about replacing the center brake lines:

I just spent all of yesterday swapping out the six rubber lines with the Goodridge kit. As Hkollie1 said, this project ranks low on the fun scale (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/220356-goodridge-stainless-brakelines-6-pc-installed.html) .

The center lines, the topic of this thread, is an exercise in "where there's a will, there's a way". I must have spent two hours apiece on those. The only tips I have are to remove the spare, crank the winch cable that holds the spare all the way back up, and have the truck jacked up in the rear as high as safely possible, maybe put a cinderblock under the jack stands if your jack will go that high. I spent way to much time sitting Indian-style bent over under there. Oh, and make sure you have plenty of Advil around before attempting this.

It is a messy job. I don't think there are any shortcuts. If small children are around, expect their vocabulary to be enhanced with what they may overhear.

lol... this was like exactly my experience... I did the full 6 line set and it went somewhat similar to that.

Also used the Goodridge 6 line set that was linked above, got my +2" set off Amazon.

I treated myself to a nice used set of snap-on flare nut / line wrenches because believe me it was a rough and and guarantee at last one hard line fitting to be jacked up if you tried this with regular open end wrenches. I had leaks, which means more torque, and another round of bleeding. Yay. :cheer2:

The hardest and more irritating out of all 6 lines were the axle "the extra two", but now my brake feel pretty good. It took me some time to get used to it tho, and honestly at first was kinda pissed because the feel changed A LOT. But after driving it for a few thousand miles I started to understand why people put these things on.

I get a lot of linear pedal response and can really apply accordingly.

I hate those clips with a passion, and I needed to buy 2 more from Toyota to get them to hold in there. See how I doubled up on them up top... usually you only see one per.

Did the calipers, rotors, and pads too.

 

[Drift Monkey]

Is it even worth doing the upper rears? Kinda considering just doing the centric 4 piece kit and saving myself some anguish.

It's honestly making me consider just keeping my stock lines and just sticking to a flush.

 

[Bumbo]

Is it even worth doing the upper rears? Kinda considering just doing the centric 4 piece kit and saving myself some anguish.

It's honestly making me consider just keeping my stock lines and just sticking to a flush.

I think it’s worth doing it.

If you are changing to SS lines because you want the linear pedal performance & feel SS lines gives you, then I suspect it would not improve as much with rubber lines still part of the system. I couldn't tell you for sure, I went from all rubber to all SS.

SS lines have a totally different feel, and it was for the better. It’s a pretty significant difference. Braking performance became tighter and more predictable. Its very linear, meaning the more you push, the more braking you get. Its becomes much easier to modulate and gauge how much braking is applied. I find it to be very beneficial especially off-road.