internal bike rack
- Thread starter silversx
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A.Wilson013
New member
REI sells what you are looking for... I cannot think of the name, but I have them.
You could use these from Performance, and mount them anywhere...
not sure how that goes in.. do i have to drill holes into the cargo area?
Antman
Elite Member
That's the good thing about them- they can be screwed, or bolted to anything. It wouldn't be too hard to mount them to something and secure it without drilling holes in the floor...hell, a piece of plywood cut to fit into the cargo area would work. You could even throw some outdoor carpet on it for a finished look...Just brainstorming!
They only cost $15 ea too:biggrin2:
They only cost $15 ea too:biggrin2:
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That's exactly what a friend of mine did with her 3rd gen. She just took a 1x4, bolted two truck rail mounts to the board, and cut the board to length. Fits two bikes perfectly. You could probably fit one behind the front seats with a mount centered and fit a third bike facing the opposite way in between the other two.
SteveGo43
New member
Saris
I got this idea from Harper's posts. If you want something to just buy and install, the system below works awesome. I ended up buying the saris traps from Jenson USA and screwing them into some aluminum channel 30" long. I have to remove my seat post but I love this system so far.
Traps Single Track
Saris Traps Fork Mount Carrier at JensonUSA.com
I got this idea from Harper's posts. If you want something to just buy and install, the system below works awesome. I ended up buying the saris traps from Jenson USA and screwing them into some aluminum channel 30" long. I have to remove my seat post but I love this system so far.
Traps Single Track
Saris Traps Fork Mount Carrier at JensonUSA.com
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sevenstorydrop
New member
FYI, this will be a hassle, because unless you are extremely short, you are going to have to lower your seatpost every time you roll the bike in there. Otherwise, it will scrape the ceiling.
Here is the setup I built. It cost about $60. The main cost is the thule fork mounts. It is kind of a hassle- I have to remove the seat posts for the bike to fit. I think it is less of a hassle than trying to get the bike on top of the car, plus it is more secure if I want to go riding right after work.
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sevenstorydrop
New member
Yeah, I have a rocky mounts rack on top that locks, that I will use when I ride from work. Or, I'll just remove the front wheel, and put it in the cargo area with the back seats in place. It doesn't move.
so the saris and the truck mount from performance is pretty much the same thing?
i think i'll go with either one and mount them to a 1x4 and if i need to remove seat post then so be it..
by the way i don't have the pull out tray .. hopefully that works without removing the post
i think i'll go with either one and mount them to a 1x4 and if i need to remove seat post then so be it..
by the way i don't have the pull out tray .. hopefully that works without removing the post
I just built one of these. $25 for the fork mount and $5 plus change for the 2X6, 1/4" bolts, 1/4" nuts and some washers. Had the store cut the2x6 down to 45" and then countersunk the nuts and washers so they wouldn't scrape the carpet. Build time was about 15 min. I can add at least two more fork mounts as needed (i.e., cyclocross season).
Note that at first I had it set up for the bike to be facing the rear but the saddle rubbed on the headliner. I switched it around so the bike is facing forward and there is pleanty of room. The bike is a size 58 road bik.
Note that at first I had it set up for the bike to be facing the rear but the saddle rubbed on the headliner. I switched it around so the bike is facing forward and there is pleanty of room. The bike is a size 58 road bik.
any chance for a pic of mount? what do you mean by counter sunk the nuts and washers
silversx,
Sure. I will take some pictures when I get home this afternoon and then post them. By countersunk I mean that on the bottom side of the 2x6, I reamed out a circle of wood into which each nut/washer sits. Thus, the nut/washer are below the plane formed by the bottom of the board. I then cut off the ends of the bolts. This way, the only thing touching the carpet is the 2x6.
I am sure this will make more sense with the pictures.
Sure. I will take some pictures when I get home this afternoon and then post them. By countersunk I mean that on the bottom side of the 2x6, I reamed out a circle of wood into which each nut/washer sits. Thus, the nut/washer are below the plane formed by the bottom of the board. I then cut off the ends of the bolts. This way, the only thing touching the carpet is the 2x6.
I am sure this will make more sense with the pictures.
