Is 91 octane really over kill on a 3rd gen?

[wettRunner]

that isn't a rod knock. if it were a rod, there would be no pause between the knocks. it would be consistent and smooth. do those have an inspection cover on the bottom of the trans? I cant remember. check the converter bolts. ive dealt with something similar before, it had been misdiagnosed several times as a engine bearing knock. in fact they apparently even pulled the engine and rebuilt it, still knocked.

it ended up being the converter bolts. the nuts were bottoming out on the stud(non threaded) section before getting tight against the converter. wrong bolts, or lacking washers. I cant remember now...

Thank you guys!

I agree it doesn't seem to be rod knock due to the inconsistency of variables that affect the noise. (Only ticks @ idle/ warm, and when I take it out of gear and put it back in at a light, the tick stops)

Just bought the runner the other day for $4,600 and the next day the dealer quotes me >$5,000 to fix....

Currently it is my only vehicle (that runs) so I wanted to see if a shop could fix it for a fair price, and not drag out ANOTHER project.

(As far as inspection cover, i'll have to look when I get off work)

 

[thegipper]

I watched your videos and that doesn't sound like rod knock to me. When my Grandprix developed a rod knock, the oil had a fine "glitter" in it from the rod bearing failing. You can check your dipstick and see if you see any of that fine glitter (doubt you will though).

I bet you have a cracked or broken flex plate. Remove the inspection plate and see if its cracked or as others suggested, the bolts may have backed out (they're supposed to have thread locker on them and need to be tightened evenly).

A long handle (swivel head) ratcheting 12mm wrench really helps for two of the four bolts that hold the inspection cover on. It's a tight fit to get your hand in there.

If you do have to replace the flexplate, I suggest buying an OEM one. My buddies Tacoma wen't through 3 aftermarket flex plates until I gave him a spare OEM one I had, it never cracked again. Oh and you might as well do your rear main seal if you have to pull the tranny.

Let us know what you find.

 

[thegipper]

One last thing, there should be six 14mm bolts that attach the flex plate to the torque converter. I can't remember how many bolts hold the flex plate to the crank but there is just one large "ring" spacer, if I remember correctly.

 

[wettRunner]

So I didn't get around to looking for a viewing slot for the plate, however I have learned that when the knock/ tick starts, I can get it to stop by literally stopping hard (at the very end of decelerating). Is this possibly because the force of braking pushes the plate back in line with the torque converter?

I may be wrong, I may be crazy.....

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Have you thought about an exhaust leak. I'll admit to me an exhaust leak near the manifolds will sound more like a valve on an engine with hydraulic lifters......something to think about.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[thegipper]

You'll need to visually inspect the flexplate to know for sure, no other way around it. Shouldn't take more than 20 minutes.

Good luck

 

[wettRunner]

Again i'm sorry for posting on a unrelated thread but i'm still waiting to start my own build/ troubleshooting thread. (still on probation I guess)

update*

Nothing is progressing with the runner as far as making a louder/ worse noise.

However, this morning I jumped in to start my vehicle, the CLICK*, no power...

I had to take my girlfriends car to work so I will investigate when I get home.
I Assume its bad contact somewhere, fuse, or a bad wire going to the starter.

I appreciate the advice you all have given me.