is body mount chop the only thing i can do??

S

silversx

New member
ok this is getting ridiculous.. first my setup in front

ome 884 springs
bilstein 5100 on lowest setting
light racing UCA
17x8 ATX mojave
285/70 duratrac

so today i got an alignment after the UCA went in..

problem? massive rubbing in the back of the wheel well on the body mount

basically adjusting the uca ball joint for positive caster does not move the wheel forward to give more clearance because it just moves the top of the pivot line backwards for more caster

setting the ball joint to maximum caster caused positive camber even at the most negative camber setting on the UCA.. so backed it of to 1 setting above center (position D)

now camber is perfect and caster at 2.0.. much better than before UCA which was +.9 camber and -.5 caster

but somehow the tires are rubbing worse than before on the body mount and no the tech did not back the cambolts way back.. only maybe .2 degree to even both sides after adjusting the uca

am i going to have to do a body mount chop? since 95% of forward adjustments on the lower control arm are gone on one side and 100% gone on the other.. the 5% was just used to bring both side even..

the lift is very even so i don't want to go any higher even though i could with the 5100s .. and i don't think lifting sky high is the answer to stop rubbing

are cambolts slightly different for every car? why is mine running out of adjustments forward when others have no rub on 285 even with a modest lift

the rub only happens at full lock while backing up.. but it's kinda scary since the tread gets caught on the mount and gets pulled until freed which can't be good..

sorry for the long post but this is getting outta hand..

anyone know a good place to do mount chop in so cal? seems liek that's my only option now.. will gladly pay member from forum to do it too
 
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Can't really help you. But if it makes you feel better, I'm stuck in a similar predicament. Was about to order a set of LR UCA as well. Camber seems to be ok but caster is at .3 with rubbing on the body mount full lock reverse, not hard though. Was considering taking it to toyota dealer for alignment first but haven't had time. Goodluck.

I'm sure demello out in corona can do it for you.
 
silversx said:
ok this is getting ridiculous.. first my setup in front

ome 884 springs
bilstein 5100 on lowest setting
light racing UCA
17x8 ATX mojave
285/70 duratrac

so today i got an alignment after the UCA went in..

problem? massive rubbing in the back of the wheel well on the body mount

basically adjusting the uca ball joint for positive caster does not move the wheel forward to give more clearance because it just moves the top of the pivot line backwards for more caster

setting the ball joint to maximum caster caused positive camber even at the most negative camber setting on the UCA.. so backed it of to 1 setting above center (position D)

now camber is perfect and caster at 2.0.. much better than before UCA which was +.9 camber and -.5 caster

but somehow the tires are rubbing worse than before on the body mount and no the tech did not back the cambolts way back.. only maybe .2 degree to even both sides after adjusting the uca

am i going to have to do a body mount chop? since 95% of forward adjustments on the lower control arm are gone on one side and 100% gone on the other.. the 5% was just used to bring both side even..

the lift is very even so i don't want to go any higher even though i could with the 5100s .. and i don't think lifting sky high is the answer to stop rubbing

are cambolts slightly different for every car? why is mine running out of adjustments forward when others have no rub on 285 even with a modest lift

the rub only happens at full lock while backing up.. but it's kinda scary since the tread gets caught on the mount and gets pulled until freed which can't be good..

sorry for the long post but this is getting outta hand..

anyone know a good place to do mount chop in so cal? seems liek that's my only option now.. will gladly pay member from forum to do it too
Click to expand...

The LR UCA's need to be set to Center/Zero as they already have 2+ degrees of pos. caster built in to accommodate for a lift.With you setting them 1 setting past center obviously brings them back to where the stock caster settings are.The camber is good now and should be,because LR UCA's have a ton of adjustment as you just loosen the ball joint nut and it slides in and out. The lower front cam bolt should be just needed for fine tuning.

The cam bolts on the LCA's on the 4runners are the same unless you got a freak and I highly doubt that .....and the rear ones adjust the caster and needs to be adjusted first. You need to fire your mechanic and alignment guy. This is basic for any half way decent mechanic for all vehicles.Where are you located in S Cal and maybe somebody can help you out with a good shop/mechanic???

I got 5.7+ caster on mine and that is max with the LR UCA's at the center pos. The aft cam bolts are the whole way back and if we turned it any more the caster started going the other way.Just drove 3600 miles in the past week and a half and wheeled offroad all this week here in Colorado. No bumpsteer whatsoever and it drives so good even with big mud tires on.. Drives perfect and not one rub even thru the rocks which is the real test as the wheels deflect about another 1/4" when hitting rocks at an angle when going over ledges and stuff. Last year I didn't rub at 4.0 caster on the street but did when offroading.

It would have been easier and cheaper if you to just researched the lifted sticky and copy what others have done . And as stated I'd ditch the spacers as they are for IMO running wheels with the wrong offset , and your Mojave's have perfect offset.
 
Last edited:
harper7 said:
The LR UCA's need to be set to Center/Zero as they already have 2+ degrees of pos. caster built in to accommodate for a lift.With you setting them 1 setting past center obviously brings them back to where the stock caster settings are.The camber is good now and should be,because LR UCA's have a ton of adjustment as you just loosen the ball joint nut and it slides in and out. The lower front cam bolt should be just needed for fine tuning.

The cam bolts on the LCA's on the 4runners are the same unless you got a freak and I highly doubt that .....and the rear ones adjust the caster and needs to be adjusted first. You need to fire your mechanic and alignment guy. This is basic for any half way decent mechanic for all vehicles.Where are you located in S Cal and maybe somebody can help you out with a good shop/mechanic???

I got 5.7+ caster on mine and that is max with the LR UCA's at the center pos. The aft cam bolts are the whole way back and if we turned it any more the caster started going the other way.Just drove 3600 miles in the past week and a half and wheeled offroad all this week here in Colorado. No bumpsteer whatsoever and it drives so good even with big mud tires on.. Drives perfect and not one rub even thru the rocks which is the real test as the wheels deflect about another 1/4" when hitting rocks at an angle when going over ledges and stuff. Last year I didn't rub at 4.0 caster on the street but did when offroading.

It would have been easier and cheaper if you to just researched the lifted sticky and copy what others have done . And as stated I'd ditch the spacers as they are for IMO running wheels with the wrong offset , and your Mojave's have perfect offset.
Click to expand...

thanks harper.. im taking it to another alignment place today.. it just doesn't make sense that i can only get 1.6 caster with the LR uca..

one question is doesn't the instruction show that turning the ball joint more can both add or subtract caster depending on which way it's turn.. if the SPC logo is facing front for car it should add another 2 to the default D position?

hopefully this time they can get it right so i can avoid a chop.. i mean you have way bigger tires and no rub.. will report back

and i haven't had the spacers on since i put the OME springs up front.. they've already been shipped to another member :D
 
Last edited:
Ok new alignment done

Now 4.5 caster and no rubbing

How?

The effin idiot yesterday had the cambolt set the wrong way. Opposite of what it should be.

Amazing.
 
Dude...Once you find a competent alignment tech, don't ever go anywhere else.

It took me a bunch of tries before I found a guy who actually cared about his career choice. He was a guru, to say the least.
 
Goodyear Duratrac 285/70/17 on Black Rock Series 908 Yuma Matte Black Aluminum Wheels 17x8 Part # 908B786045

Front rubbing fixed by pushing the liner forward - no problem.

Rear rubbing against the frame even after removing mud flaps, same as described above.

285FrameRub2.jpg~original


285FrameRub1.jpg~original


285FrameRub3.jpg~original


No Rub After Alignment. Of course I wish there was even more space but I will need to see if it rubs turning the wheel over large obstacles.

Front Left
Camber = -0.1
Caster = 5.6
Toe = 0.05
SAI = 11.6
Included Angle = 11.6

Front Right
Camber = -0.1
Caster = 5.1
Toe = 0.05
SAI = 12.1
Included Angle = 12.0

Front
Cross Camber = 0.0
Cross Caster = 0.5
Cross SAI = -0.5
Total Toe = 0.10

285NoRub.jpg~original
 
Last edited:
mikey's2010SR5 said:
What is the backspacing on the Black Rock wheels?
Click to expand...

Black Rock Series 908 Yuma Matte Black Aluminum Wheels 908B786045
Diameter 17 in. 8.000 in.
Backspacing (in) 4.500 in. Offset 0.00mm
Lug Nut Seat Style Conical seat - 60 degree
Hub Centric No
Center Bore Diameter (in) 4.250 in.
Center Bore Diameter (mm) 107.95mm
Load Rating (lbs) 2,200 lbs.
Wheel Bolt Pattern 6 x 5 1/2 in.
 
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