Is it possible to cut a access hole for the oil filter
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I assume you are talking about the TRD skid plate. Two easy solutions:
1. Replace the bolts with studs. There is a thread on the forum how to do that. Makes it much easier to take off the skid to get to the oil filter and drain plug.
2. Replace the skid with a clone that has an access plate built in. CarTrimHome has one: Bumper Skid Plate Protector Guard For TOYOTA 4RUNNER 2010-2024 FJ Cruiser 2010-2014 Lexus GX 460
Hungryhawk
Member
Cutting thin steel or aluminum is tricky unless you have done a lot of this type of cutting and have all the correct tools.
To cut a hole -smooth the edges, paint (if steel) will take a lot of time-assuming you have all the right cutting tools. Forget reusing the cut out piece for a door/hatch-it would magnify the project immensely.
I would follow the advice to replace it with a unit that has the features you want.
To cut a hole -smooth the edges, paint (if steel) will take a lot of time-assuming you have all the right cutting tools. Forget reusing the cut out piece for a door/hatch-it would magnify the project immensely.
I would follow the advice to replace it with a unit that has the features you want.
Excuse the new 5G owner, I have a new/used 2024 TRD ORP and have always done my own oil changes on my previous 4G. What is the issue with bolt stripping. If I removed and properly torque the skid plate, what's the issue. I have not done my first change yet. Should I replace the bolts with another type etc?
Thanks,
4RExplorer
New member
The TRD skid is rather heavy and awkward to put in place after the oil change. When trying to line it up with the holes for the bolts, the bolts are easily cross threaded and the monkeys at some dealerships don't start the bolts by hand, but rather with their air impact wrench. Immediate damage to the bolt threads and the threads in the holes where they go.
Many of us have put studs into the frame holes, then use nuts instead to attache the skid. Much easier to get the skid holes to go around the studs and then easier to attach the nuts to the studs.
There is a thread on the forum that gives the details. Essentially, you get studs of the right size, put them in the frame holes and use thread lock to keep them there. I also use nyloc nuts which have a rounded top surface in case I hit a rock that might wipe off a regular nut.
yes it is possible, if wanting to give it a try and save money vs purchasing a new one.
idea:
metal blades to cut (metal cut off tool) or hand held
sand the edges
hinge of some sort on one side and other a locking mechanism / slide to hold flap shut.
I have a trd pro skid plate and at first it was challenging to remount it but its easier now since ive done it a few times.
I have a 2021 limited so I’ve never dealt with the TRD skid plate. Does it not have the same two hinge/tabs at the front as the limited skid plate?
Agreed. Do this. Wait for them to have a sale. They do it regularly (in fact they are having one right now for tax season with $50 off skid plates) and by the time you pay to have the OEM TRD plate cut and add hardware for a hinge and lock, it doesn't make sense to hack it up. If you do it yourself, you'll eventually be unhappy with how it looks and buy a new plate anyway. You can sell the TRD plate as is easily on the Ebay or FB Marketplace and use that to pay for a big chunk of the RCI plate, especially if you go with the steel one. I sold mine in less than a week; people want them for the big red letter flex. After I sold mine on Marketplace, I was only into the RCI plate for about 50 bucks after taxes (I got the steel one and it is better than aluminum anyway). Also, get the RCI bumper filler plate with it; you'll thank me later.
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No. Only the four bolts.
T4R_Canuck
Member
The issue with bolts stripping or being cross threaded isn't a problem with the hardware, or the threaded holes, it's simply a user error problem. Dealerships and quick oil change places are trying to change as many vehicles oil as possible and do not care about your vehicle. If you insist on using a dealership or quick change to change your oil, remove the skid plate before you go and replace it when you return.
Replacing the TRD skid with an aftermarket skid plate that has an access hole doesn't fix the problem, it just changes the affected bolts to the access port bolts instead of the skid plate bolts. The person changing your oil will just as likely strip those bolts than they would strip or cross thread the skid plate bolts.
Replacing the TRD skid with an aftermarket skid plate that has an access hole doesn't fix the problem, it just changes the affected bolts to the access port bolts instead of the skid plate bolts. The person changing your oil will just as likely strip those bolts than they would strip or cross thread the skid plate bolts.
Hungryhawk
Member
I like the idea of studs which will help alignment replacing the skid. How about brass nuts on the studs. A shop tech is more likely to hand start nuts. The brass can crossthread but not damage harder steel-especially a grade 5 or 8 stud. Just keep extra brass nuts.
If my stock bolts get ruined, I will try this.
Currently I have a cardboard box I made at the perfect height to hold the skid for easy bolt starting.
If my stock bolts get ruined, I will try this.
Currently I have a cardboard box I made at the perfect height to hold the skid for easy bolt starting.
Keep in mind that you need something to keep the nuts from coming loose, usually a lock washer. That will raise the height of the nut, thus making them more vulnerable to being damaged if you hit a rock. That is why I used nyloc nuts since they have the built in nylon locking ring, but are also rounded so a potential rock strike may slide off them.
Brass would certainly work, but dissimilar metals (brass and steel) are known to corrode due to galvanic action.
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
Agreed, I literally installed one just for my yearly oil change, and love the ease of user. Highly recommend!
