Is it true that leaving your headlight setting on "Auto" will damge your HID?

Ixz72

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Is it true that leaving your headlight setting on "Auto" will damge your HID?

I replaced my headlight bulbs with HID's shortly after I bought it. Then I discovered that my new T4R Limited has an automatic setting for the headlights, so I left the setting on there.

2 months later, I noticed the driver's side headlight would randomly blink. Two nights ago it completely went out. I went back to the place I bought the HID kit and the seller asked me all sorts of questions. He told me not to leave the headlights on "auto" something to do with the car's computer not getting the correct response from the after market HID kit and it keeps sending "power" to the headlight, thinking it's not coming on.

We also found the culprit on why it was not lighting up, the fuse has blown and the ballast was shot (it was hot when we pulled it out).

I thought the seller's explanation made sense, but if he is BS'ing me I would like to know.

Any thoughts, experiences on this matter?
 
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sometimes auto settings will cause your lights to turn on for a brief time such as in a tunnel, this can potentially damage the bulb as HID bulbs don't well with short on/off situations and need time to warm up.
 
if this is something you are worried about just use a time delay relay instead of the relay provided with your HID kit, should cost about $20
 
I replaced my headlight bulbs with HID's shortly after I bought it. Then I discovered that my new T4R Limited has an automatic setting for the headlights, so I left the setting on there.

2 months later, I noticed the driver's side headlight would randomly blink. Two nights ago it completely went out. I went back to the place I bought the HID kit and the seller asked me all sorts of questions. He told me not to leave the headlights on "auto" something to do with the car's computer not getting the correct response from the after market HID kit and it keeps sending "power" to the headlight, thinking it's not coming on.

We also found the culprit on why it was not lighting up, the fuse has blown and the ballast was shot (it was hot when we pulled it out).

I thought the seller's explanation made sense, but if he is BS'ing me I would like to know.

Any thoughts, experiences on this matter?

Absolutely not. The only thing that is said to be unhealthy for HID is using "flash-to-pass", where repeated very short 'bursts' are used.

The 'auto' setting is no different than turning your lights on/off.

I'd sure like to know who the vendor is.

Let's ask an expert [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION]
 
Absolutely not. The only thing that is said to be unhealthy for HID is using "flash-to-pass", where repeated very short 'bursts' are used.

The 'auto' setting is no different than turning your lights on/off.

I'd sure like to know who the vendor is.

Let's ask an expert [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-intensity_discharge_lamp

Specifically - End of life - "Factors of wear come mostly from on/off cycles versus the total on time. The highest wear occurs when the HID burner is ignited while still hot and before the metallic salts have recrystallized."
 
I've heard of ballasts being damaged by a vehicle starting if the headlights are in the on position because the voltage is spiking while the starter is turning, but not sure the auto would cause this necessarily, although like arehman11 said they can cause your lights to fire on and off if you go through shade or tunnels, but I'd bet the damage was more because the headlights were trying to light while the vehicle was being started, especially if you're not using a relay harness...
 
I could see that being the case if the auto feature is constantly turning the headlights on and off, but I find that the 4R auto-on/off feature is super conservative and waits forever to turn the headlights on unless it's legitimately dark.

As a data point, I've had my XenonDepot Philips 4300K HIDs installed with auto-on/off always selected for about 6 months now and I haven't had any issues.

[MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] can you weigh in?
 
I can see how the Auto feature can possibly shortening the life of the HID especially if the lights are being turned on-off more compared to turning it on manually. However, the shop's explanation is wrong. The Auto feature is simply a sensor that triggers a relay which send power to the headlights, it is either on or off just like using the manual switch. Sounds like a defective ballast.
 
... He told me not to leave the headlights on "auto" something to do with the car's computer not getting the correct response from the after market HID kit and it keeps sending "power" to the headlight, thinking it's not coming on.

#1. This guy doesn't know what he's talking about.

. Sounds like a defective ballast.

#2. I'm more inclined to think crappy components.
 
Our ballasts have a lower start-up draw then a lot of other ballasts, which means that they draw less power when they are first turned on. I had our ballasts installed in my T4R (with no harness) for years with no issues.

Steve
 
Our ballasts have a lower start-up draw then a lot of other ballasts, which means that they draw less power when they are first turned on. I had our ballasts installed in my T4R (with no harness) for years with no issues.

Steve

Steve, it's nice you took the opportunity to plug your product, but I tagged you hoping you'd opine on the OP's question, concerning HID and auto headlights.
 
#1. This guy doesn't know what he's talking about

He may not, and it might have been a crappy HID kit. This was my first time to try HID's and found a local store that sold it.

The seller is not a crook by any means, in fact he diagnosed what was wrong and replaced the ballast for free.

I consider this a learning experience and as soon as the ones I have burn out, I will definitely buy the best ones.
 
[MENTION=51186]philsey[/MENTION] - ballasts having a higher start up draw will have an issue with auto headlights, as there is not enough power going to the ballasts to ignite the bulbs. As a result, the ballasts will lock up, and you'll need to shut the vehicle off, wait a bit, and then try to turn the lights back on.

Steve
 
[MENTION=51186]philsey[/MENTION] - ballasts having a higher start up draw will have an issue with auto headlights, as there is not enough power going to the ballasts to ignite the bulbs. As a result, the ballasts will lock up, and you'll need to shut the vehicle off, wait a bit, and then try to turn the lights back on.

Steve

This could be true if you are not running a relay to get power from the battery for the ballast. However, if you have a relay, this shouldn't be an issue. I'm sure there is enough power to turn on the relay if it can power a halogen bulb.
 
[MENTION=51186]philsey[/MENTION] - ballasts having a higher start up draw will have an issue with auto headlights, as there is not enough power going to the ballasts to ignite the bulbs. As a result, the ballasts will lock up, and you'll need to shut the vehicle off, wait a bit, and then try to turn the lights back on.

Steve

So what the seller told me did make sense?

That is what I am understanding from your post [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION]
 
[MENTION=96919]Ixz72[/MENTION] - What he is saying doesn't really make sense if you're using a relay harness to power the ballast directly from the battery -- unless you're intentionally sitting there turning the lights on/off/on/off repeatedly for a prolonged period of time.

Steve
 

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