Is play in CV joints normal?

1985taylor1925

Senior Member
I started a thread several months ago attempting to get advice and figure out my 4runner's front end issues. Unfortunately its still a mystery. Today I jacked up the front end, took the tires off, and Im examining every front end component in as much detail as my knowledge will allow.

When I grab the cv shaft between the two boots and shake it, there is a slight amont of play on both sides. Id say roughly 1-2mm. Can anyone tell me if this is normal? Thanks
 
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I started a thread several months ago attempting to get advice and figure out my 4runner's front end issues. Unfortunately its still a mystery. Today I jacked up the front end, took the tires off, and Im examining every front end component in as much detail as my knowledge will allow.

When I grab the cv shaft between the two boots and shake it, there is a slight amont of play on both sides. Id say roughly 1-2mm. Can anyone tell me if this is normal? Thanks

Not normal. You will have to pull the axle and inspect the retainer clip on the differential side, and your axle nut is loose on the wheel end. Fix this immediately.
 
My axles are beat to hell and have a slight amount of movement but for the most part they are tight. They don't click in corners and havnt broken yet. Both have torn inner boots wrapped in garbage bags and zipties! Just not worth replacing till they're broke.

What is you front end issue?
 
Slight play in the CV's is normal. If your boots are cracked or torn, I'd suggest on replacing the boots.
 
Ya its lateral movement. And I discovered it is normal by looking at my dads 09 Tundra. His have the same movement. The boots are in really good shape. So no problems there. I just needed to be sure cause Im trying to rule out anything that could be causing my front end shakes.
 
My axles are beat to hell and have a slight amount of movement but for the most part they are tight. They don't click in corners and havnt broken yet. Both have torn inner boots wrapped in garbage bags and zipties! Just not worth replacing till they're broke.

What is you front end issue?

Check out my thread "Jitters on bumps", (sorry, I dont know how to put a direct link to the thread here). The front end jitters have plagued my 4runner since Iv owned it, and for who knows how long before I got it. I actually just ordered a remanufactured Toyota steering rack today. Im starting with that and the tie rod ends, because I know the my current rack is bad. If that doesnt fix it, well . . . I'll probably do the next logical thing, which is cry like a little girl. = )
 
I just popped in a brand new CV and it has ~1-2mm of play both rotationally and laterally. The old one had too much rotational play (~.5") and I felt it was going to break soon so I replaced it before it happened on the trail (it was under warranty anyways).
 
Check out my thread "Jitters on bumps", (sorry, I dont know how to put a direct link to the thread here). The front end jitters have plagued my 4runner since Iv owned it, and for who knows how long before I got it. I actually just ordered a remanufactured Toyota steering rack today. Im starting with that and the tie rod ends, because I know the my current rack is bad. If that doesnt fix it, well . . . I'll probably do the next logical thing, which is cry like a little girl. = )

Here's your other thread:http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/71231-jitters-bumps.html


Anyway, I see you have the Wrangler RT/S tires. FWIW, my '97 came with the same tires when it was new, and those tires could not be balanced by anyone/anyplace that tried. My solution was to replace those absolute crap tires, with some Michelins. It was as smooth as could be after that.

I've been running Toyo's for the last seven years, and they have been smooth too.

Before spending money on any more hard parts, I'd first rule out the tires as not being the problem.
 
Here's your other thread:http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/71231-jitters-bumps.html


Anyway, I see you have the Wrangler RT/S tires. FWIW, my '97 came with the same tires when it was new, and those tires could not be balanced by anyone/anyplace that tried. My solution was to replace those absolute crap tires, with some Michelins. It was as smooth as could be after that.

I've been running Toyo's for the last seven years, and they have been smooth too.

Before spending money on any more hard parts, I'd first rule out the tires as not being the problem.

Hey thanks for posting the link. Any chance you could tell me how to post links? Concerning the tires, did you happen to read through the thread? Tires are ruled out. I dont want to rewrite the details, but the thread explains everything.
 
Hey thanks for posting the link. Any chance you could tell me how to post links?

Open up a new window in your browser and go to the webpage you want to link to. Then copy that page's address in the bar at the top of your browser. Then go back to the T4R.org page (or whatever site) you're posting on and paste the text from the address bar that you copied. It automatically knows it's a website and turns the text into a link once you post it.
 
my driver side outer cv joint popped out while doing my lbjs months ago. I thought I've put them back correctly.

I noticed today and if i grab the shaft I can move the cv shaft laterally about 1/2 inch or so. My passenger side doesn't move at all.

Is this normal or should I start looking into new cv-s?
 
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my driver side outer cv joint popped out while doing my lbjs months ago. I thought I've put them back correctly.

I noticed today and if i grab the shaft I can move the cv shaft laterally about 1/2 inch or so. My passenger side doesn't move at all.

Is this normal or should I start looking into new cv-s?


anybody? I only ask cause my passenger cv axle has no movement. Thanks!!
 
my driver side outer cv joint popped out while doing my lbjs months ago. I thought I've put them back correctly.

I noticed today and if i grab the shaft I can move the cv shaft laterally about 1/2 inch or so. My passenger side doesn't move at all.

Is this normal or should I start looking into new cv-s?

That much movement is not normal for the cv. Are you positive that you put everything back together correctly? It sounds like you may have missed a piece.

You should post some pictures of the cv, lca, uca and hub to give us a better idea of whats going on
 
That much movement is not normal for the cv. Are you positive that you put everything back together correctly? It sounds like you may have missed a piece.

You should post some pictures of the cv, lca, uca and hub to give us a better idea of whats going on

thanks, I think you are right. I found this diagram on the web and it should be helpful for others.

Basically the outer joint (wheel hub) and the shaft should move together. The lateral movement occurs w/ in the inner joint (front diff side). Thus, my symptom is not normal as my shaft is not attached to the outer joint.

Now I will have to study and decide what replacement cv-s I need to get. lovely...
 

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thanks, I think you are right. I found this diagram on the web and it should be helpful for others.

Basically the outer joint (wheel hub) and the shaft should move together. The lateral movement occurs w/ in the inner joint (front diff side). Thus, my symptom is not normal as my shaft is not attached to the outer joint.

Now I will have to study and decide what replacement cv-s I need to get. lovely...

I found out I'm having some CV issues too man. I'm fairly certain mine are bent AND aren't properly seated in the diff. So I'm probably getting new ones. Keep me in the loop on which ones you go for!
 
I found out I'm having some CV issues too man. I'm fairly certain mine are bent AND aren't properly seated in the diff. So I'm probably getting new ones. Keep me in the loop on which ones you go for!

been reading a lot of about napa vs cvj vs reman oem vs. buying used oem + DYI reboot.

NAPA New $90
Reman OEM $150 after core exchange
CVJ $99+$50 OEM boot + shipping
buying used and DYI reboot: $75+$50 OEM reboot kit = $125

I am leaning towards just paying additional $25 for reman OEM for $150 and i think camelback offers free shipping. Part number is #43430-35030-84.

Plus according to CVJ: "Original OEM Toyota plastic boot ... is made of Hytrel plastic which is tougher, more abrasion resistant and more chemical resistant than the Neoprene we use. Being hard plastic it does not seal as well as Neoprene at high angles. "

Although it was un-lifted, the OEM cv and boot lasted 10+ years / 200k miles so I will take my chances w/ the reman OEMs.
 
been reading a lot of about napa vs cvj vs reman oem vs. buying used oem + DYI reboot.

NAPA New $90
Reman OEM $150 after core exchange
CVJ $99+$50 OEM boot + shipping
buying used and DYI reboot: $75+$50 OEM reboot kit = $125

I am leaning towards just paying additional $25 for reman OEM for $150 and i think camelback offers free shipping. Part number is #43430-35030-84.

Plus according to CVJ: "Original OEM Toyota plastic boot ... is made of Hytrel plastic which is tougher, more abrasion resistant and more chemical resistant than the Neoprene we use. Being hard plastic it does not seal as well as Neoprene at high angles. "

Although it was un-lifted, the OEM cv and boot lasted 10+ years / 200k miles so I will take my chances w/ the reman OEMs.

Shit! I wish the OEM reman's were $150 after the core exchange here in Alberta... They're literally $298 EACH after the core exchange !

Lol wanna ship me a set?
 
Shit! I wish the OEM reman's were $150 after the core exchange here in Alberta... They're literally $298 EACH after the core exchange !

Lol wanna ship me a set?

wow that stinks, if that's the case, I'd call cvj or call camelback toyota to ask how much for them to ship.

or if you still wan the OEM, I think best bet may be find a used good OEM nearby and DYI reboot.

If still too much, I'd go w/ napa or its equivalent in Alberta.

Besides the shipping costs, i think there are other charges to get it across the border.
 

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