3.4L V6 4Runner SR5 AT 4x4
I searched and came up with no threads related to R&R of camshaft seals. Could someone post a link. I figured while I'm doing the TB and water pump why not do the camshaft seals too.
Haynes will tell you to stab the old ones with something then grab them with pliers and pull them out. Then lube up your new seals and slide them in. If you ask me, it is a really tight fit when the cam shaft bearing cap is torqued down and you run the risk of all sorts of problems.
Once you have your TB off, pull the valve covers so you can remove the cam shaft pulleys. After the pulleys are off you can remove the rear sheetmetal TB cover. You will now be able to see the cam seals from the front. You can then remove ONLY the two front bearing caps off the cam shaft that also pinch in the seals. Pull your old seals, clean the area up, lube and install your new seals, RTV the flat surfaces of the bearing caps, make sure your seals are seated straight(old seals that dont leak are better that new ones that do), and re-torque to spec.
If you were going to pull the cam shafts then yes but that is completely unnecessary. They have a tool kit for shim removal and replacement. Its pretty simple to us once you get the hang of it.
If you were going to pull the cam shafts then yes but that is completely unnecessary. They have a tool kit for shim removal and replacement. Its pretty simple to us once you get the hang of it.
I had some issues getting the shims out when I did an adjustment. It was the oil that sucked the shim to the bucket/lifter. There is a little step in the rim of each bucket that allows you to get underneath the shim and break that seal. If the shim will spin in the bucket then you know its not a tight fit but a vacuum fit.