Is there any function to a roof rack without cross bars?

Anyone figure out a tiedown loop to attach to the side rails without the cross bars? I basically need the ability to tie a Christmas tree up there once a year and it would be nice if there was a loop to tie to. I expect I could use a ratchet strap but a tiedown would be nice.

Not sure what you're asking, but take a foot of rope, tie it in a loop with a square knot, then loop it over the side rail with a clove hitch. Poof, instant tiedown point that won't slip side to side.
 
Weird.... my SR5P came with them.

I don't know when they stopped including those. Seems silly. My SR5 (2004) came with the cross rails and the cargo area cover. When I asked about them when I bought my new car, they looked at me like I was crazy. Still looking for both. I will pull that trigger at some point. :)
 
MPG testing.

Seems kinda silly for Toyota to not include cross bars. Almost makes the rails to be more of an aesthetic add-on. Am I wrong?

Completely made up reason to follow:
Toyota did their MPG test with them off. It can't be a stock config if it didn't test that way. A bean counter or the EPA probably noticed in 2013 and every year after had them as an option.
 
the side rails can hold tools that are clamped on like a shovel. or an awning when camping or they make a good tie point for a tarp (poor man's awning) when parked at a campsite. One can make their own crossbars using the interior grooves and some Tacoma bedrail l brackets and steel square tube as well cheaper than plastic oem crossrails.
 
Weird.... my SR5P came with them.
Same here!
I think they (Toy) quit putting them on 2014 ! ?
My 2011 SR5 did NOT come with the luggage rails installed. I purchased a pair from eBay. I really wish I had known about real roof racks at the time.

Completely made up reason to follow:
Toyota did their MPG test with them off. It can't be a stock config if it didn't test that way. A bean counter or the EPA probably noticed in 2013 and every year after had them as an option.
This was my personal theory. The rails decrease mileage by 0.1mpg, so they came off. And/or the dealers wanted them off so they could charge $$$$ for the parts + labor to reinstall them.
 
I ended up buying a set of Yakima Railgrab towers and bars that fit directly on the factory roof rack. I was attempting to carry a paddle board on the the stock cross bars but the satellite antenna was in the way because the cross bars did not lift the board high enough for the wide paddle board to clear it. Now with the aftermarket towers and bars, I have more than enough clearance. Supposedly I can carry a little more weight too. Thule has their own similar version.

yakima-railgrab.jpg


So I would say, yes there is some value to the factory roof rack.
 
You're not an idiot, but you won't need the ratchet strap "cross rails". Put your bags between the luggage rails and use the ratchet straps to snug them down tight, they won't go anywhere.


got it. i was only using rachet type because thats what i have...trailering my motorcycles to the race track all summer long.


thanks for the support
 
I ended up buying a set of Yakima Railgrab towers and bars that fit directly on the factory roof rack. I was attempting to carry a paddle board on the the stock cross bars but the satellite antenna was in the way because the cross bars did not lift the board high enough for the wide paddle board to clear it. Now with the aftermarket towers and bars, I have more than enough clearance. Supposedly I can carry a little more weight too. Thule has their own similar version.

yakima-railgrab.jpg


So I would say, yes there is some value to the factory roof rack.

Good info on these. I have tried some FatCat's on my factory bars, and I don't seem to have enough clearance to put a snowboard "face up" and "face down," as the bindings hit the roof.

I might take my crossbars off and give these a try.
 
Completely made up reason to follow:
Toyota did their MPG test with them off. It can't be a stock config if it didn't test that way. A bean counter or the EPA probably noticed in 2013 and every year after had them as an option.
To add to that, if an option that increases the frontal area is factory/dealer installed on a certain amount (I think it's 30%) of vehicles, the vehicle must be tested with the the option even if it isn't a standard item. Sometimes options will be removed for purchase during the year to keep it under the 30% number. OEMs ain't stupid.

The EPA mpg results are rounded, so OEMs pay special attention to anything that will trigger a sticker change.
17.49 shows up as 17mpg.
17.51 is 18 mpg.
 
Weird.... my SR5P came with them.


Same here!

As did mine, but check your window sticker - you paid for them. Mine were a package that included all weather mats, the slide in receiver hitch (but no ball...?), and the cross bars. You may not have had that exact package, but the crossbars are for sure an extra charge item and not stock.

Having said that, they are quite handy and I use them for my RockyMounts basket on every camping trip, carry lumber on them, pipe, etc. If you don't want a full roof rack then the crossbars make sense.
 
Why after-market cross-bars / load-bars may be needed

Some users may not need the crossbars, and factory crossbars fall short of requirements of some users. However, to eliminate the factory raised-rail because of above reason would be neglecting the needs of people who really bought the trucks for utility.

Factory crossbars rest on plastic parts, while after-market ones usually rest directly on the factory raised-rails. I would not put heavy load on plastic parts.

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Some accessories like the Thule Hullavator need cross-bars that extend past the factory rails...
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Try loading two kayaks SIDE BY SIDE without extra accessories on factory cross-bars... :)

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Some users may not need the crossbars, and factory crossbars fall short of requirements of some users. However, to eliminate the factory raised-rail because of above reason would be neglecting the needs of people who really bought the trucks for utility.

Factory crossbars rest on plastic parts, while after-market ones usually rest directly on the factory raised-rails. I would not put heavy load on plastic parts.

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Some accessories like the Thule Hullavator need cross-bars that extend past the factory rails...
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Try doing this with factory cross-bars... :)

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In theory maybe you are correct, but the factory bars are quite strong. On a recent 9200 mile trip with a bunch of rough roads (Alaska and back) I had a basket, 10 gallons fuel, and a spare wheel/tire up there... at least 100 pounds. I had several of the TORX bolts loosen but nothing broke. I retorqued the bolts around the 5000 mile mark and that was it. No other problems. We also routinely carry a kayak up there. Again, no problems.
 
Some users may not need the crossbars, and factory crossbars fall short of requirements of some users. However, to eliminate the factory raised-rail because of above reason would be neglecting the needs of people who really bought the trucks for utility.

Factory crossbars rest on plastic parts, while after-market ones usually rest directly on the factory raised-rails. I would not put heavy load on plastic parts.

Thank you for the very detailed post and pics! I'm no materials engineer but the "plastic parts" you mention feel like metal to me. But you are right -- the factory crossbars aren't the best option for some folks. The function of the rails is to hold crossbars of some sort... factory, Thule, Yakima, etc.

If your truck came with factory crossbars, you paid for them. They just padded the sticker price. My 2008 came with crossbars... and the price was padded into the sticker price. So, Toyota isn't doing anything new here by making folks pay separately for them. They've been doing that for years. And when you're already spending $2.30 gajillion dollars on a vehicle, what's an extra $200??? If Toyota just charged $2.31 gajillion and included the factory crossbars everyone would complain about the included factory crossbars and ask why they can't just remove them from the "package".
 
there is metal inside the end piece on the factory bars

However I strongly recommend the LFD off-road crossbars though over factory, they are much stronger, sit a little bit higher, offer a flat surface, and allow you to easily bolt on whatever you want.

i have the hi-lift mount that is being developed on mine, there are a few other accesories that will be available in the next month or so
http://apexoverland.com/#!/LFD-Off-Road-Ruggedized-Cross-Bar-Sets/p/97509282/category=21774015
 

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there is metal inside the end piece on the factory bars

However I strongly recommend the LFD off-road crossbars though over factory, they are much stronger, sit a little bit higher, offer a flat surface, and allow you to easily bolt on whatever you want.

i have the hi-lift mount that is being developed on mine, there are a few other accesories that will be available in the next month or so
http://apexoverland.com/#!/LFD-Off-Road-Ruggedized-Cross-Bar-Sets/p/97509282/category=21774015

I'm really liking those crossbars, thanks for posting.

I know there are threads for removing the end caps, but my question is: can ^these crossbars be installed by just removing one/both end caps?

Oops, one more: I can't see the hardware that secures the crossbar to the rail. So, to loosen/slide/retighten the crossbars, what is required? A socket, torx, box wrench, fingers?

TIA.
 
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I'm really liking those crossbars, thanks for posting.

I know there are threads for removing the end caps, but my question is: can ^these crossbars be installed by just removing one/both end caps?

Oops, one more: I can't see the hardware that secures the crossbar to the rail. So, to loosen/slide/retighten the crossbars, what is required? A socket, torx, box wrench, fingers?

TIA.

installed/un-installed the same way as the factory cross bars

you pop off the cap in the back, if you have a paint can opener that is the easiest tool to use. then you just slide them in and tighten the bolts.

there are 1.25" x .25" squares that go into the side rails, 2 on each side of each cross bar (4 total per cross bar) that the bolts go into.

All you need is something to pop off the back cover (screw driver, plastic panel tool, paint can opener, etc...) and a socket or wrench. The rails have pre-drilled 3/8" holes to mount accessories and also larger holes that fit maxtrax mounting pins. The hi-lift mount works well, and since it's just holes and a flat metal surface you can pretty much mount or drill and mount whatever you need.
 

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