Jaw dropping quote for CV replacement by dealer

Steamdonkey

New member
My '04 4Runner had a very bizarre CV boot band failure and long story short, I want to replace the whole axle. My local Toyota dealer quoted me $235 for parts + labor to replace it with an aftermarket axle. This seems way too cheap for a dealer, what am I overlooking? There's got to be a catch somewhere. Maybe this doesn't include seal replacement or front diff fluid drain and refill? I was going to do the work myself but if someone can do a legit replacement for $235, I'll take them up on it. Does anyone have any relevant dealer or mechanic experience they'd like to share? Thanks!
 
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I did mine in my driveway so can't comment on dealer but I used NAPA lifetime guarantee remans:

NAPA AUTO PARTS

$72.50 not counting core.... Mine took roughly an hour so assuming their labor is $150/hr or so it sounds about right.....
 
I did mine in my driveway so can't comment on dealer but I used NAPA lifetime guarantee remans:

NAPA AUTO PARTS

$72.50 not counting core.... Mine took roughly an hour so assuming their labor is $150/hr or so it sounds about right.....

It only took you an hour? That's impressive. How did you pull out the old axle and get the new one in? Do you have the special service tools for this or did you just get creative with common hardware store tools?
 
It only took you an hour? That's impressive. How did you pull out the old axle and get the new one in? Do you have the special service tools for this or did you just get creative with common hardware store tools?

My son and I had the whole process down since we had recently done his.... No special tools other than the necessary sockets and wrenches needed to loosen/take apart the suspension components to get to the CV.... Impact driver really is your friend here.... Once we had clear access to the CV it just pops out..... We used a short length of pipe against the flats on the CV and a few taps with a 3# hand sledge hammer and you are all set.... Installing the new one was just as simple.... Slip it into place and a few taps with the hammer on the end (protected with a piece of wood) and it popped right in.... Reassemble/torque the suspension and refill the diff and you are good to go....;- )
 
My son and I had the whole process down since we had recently done his.... No special tools other than the necessary sockets and wrenches needed to loosen/take apart the suspension components to get to the CV.... Impact driver really is your friend here.... Once we had clear access to the CV it just pops out..... We used a short length of pipe against the flats on the CV and a few taps with a 3# hand sledge hammer and you are all set.... Installing the new one was just as simple.... Slip it into place and a few taps with the hammer on the end (protected with a piece of wood) and it popped right in.... Reassemble/torque the suspension and refill the diff and you are good to go....;- )

To get the wheel hub/spindle out of the way did you have to remove more than the lower arm bolts and the sway bar connection? I think the service manual calls for separating the steering linkage ball joint, which I'd like to avoid if possible. Thanks for all the helpful info.
 
To get the wheel hub/spindle out of the way did you have to remove more than the lower arm bolts and the sway bar connection? I think the service manual calls for separating the steering linkage ball joint, which I'd like to avoid if possible. Thanks for all the helpful info.

IIRC all we had to do is remove the sway bar linkage and the lower arm bolts..... I know we didn't have to separate the steering linkage ball joint.... With that loose we were able to pull the rest of the assembly straight out from the car and then once clear of the CV shaft we were able to push the assembly to the rear and rest it on a jack stand..... That gave us a clear shot at pulling out the CV....
 
IIRC all we had to do is remove the sway bar linkage and the lower arm bolts..... I know we didn't have to separate the steering linkage ball joint.... With that loose we were able to pull the rest of the assembly straight out from the car and then once clear of the CV shaft we were able to push the assembly to the rear and rest it on a jack stand..... That gave us a clear shot at pulling out the CV....

That's what I was hoping to hear, thanks again.
 
That sounds like a price for just a CV Boot replacement and not the full CV's.

That's what I was expecting, but amazingly the price to do the entire job with an aftermarket axle was $235 or ~$550 if I wanted an OEM Toyota Axle. That's what I was quoted over the phone anyway, actually getting the work done for that price might have been another story.
 
Personally I think replacing a CV is a good thing to know how to do yourself. Especially if you wheel and you break one on the trail. It really isn't that difficult, it really is unbolt /replace type of work. As long as you know the process. I have a 3rd gen and I know the fronts are slightly different due to the swaybar connections.

Here is a decent writeup for ref:
Toyota Maintenance: CV Axle Replacement on 3rd Generation 4Runners and Tacomas

The above looks like it was done on a tacoma with manual hubs but you get the idea.
 
IIRC all we had to do is remove the sway bar linkage and the lower arm bolts..... I know we didn't have to separate the steering linkage ball joint.... With that loose we were able to pull the rest of the assembly straight out from the car and then once clear of the CV shaft we were able to push the assembly to the rear and rest it on a jack stand..... That gave us a clear shot at pulling out the CV....

Hey Bob, if you have a second can you look at the thread I started in this forum titled 'Napa front CV axle concerns'? I can't tell if my axle isn't all the way in or the dust seal needs to be repositioned. Thanks.
 
Hey Bob, if you have a second can you look at the thread I started in this forum titled 'Napa front CV axle concerns'? I can't tell if my axle isn't all the way in or the dust seal needs to be repositioned. Thanks.

No problem..... Will take a look tonight after work and check mine.... They were replaced last summer and I honestly don't remember if I had a problem with the dust seal or not....
 
No problem..... Will take a look tonight after work and check mine.... They were replaced last summer and I honestly don't remember if I had a problem with the dust seal or not....

Ok, checked mine and the dust seals are flush with the housing.... Am not sure how bad having them further out would be..... Maybe you could check with Blackworks and get his opinion based on his experience on that....
 

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