Joelzy's 96 5SPD(daily) & 5VZ block-up rebuild

[Joelzy]

that application looks good. do they use salt in your area? do you know if provo/springville area does?

from my understanding, UDOT uses mostly salt with some other mixtures(like salt water and potassium acetate) for specialized applications. Not sure if thats highways only and its different by city or what but they arent terribly specific online. Im just preparing for the worst because im new here and dont really know haha.

 

[mesooohoppy]

from my understanding, UDOT uses mostly salt with some other mixtures(like salt water and potassium acetate) for specialized applications. Not sure if thats highways only and its different by city or what but they arent terribly specific online. Im just preparing for the worst because im new here and dont really know haha.

thanks for that info. i may be moving to that area later this year so that is why i asked. its snows where i live, but not enough to warrant salt. we are lucky where i live when it comes to cars with clean bones, but if im moving to an area that has salt i will be tasked to not only take care of my 4runner, but my buddies as well. i will most likely go the POR15 route on both of our cars.

i was under the rear of my car on saturday installing my rear extended brake line and despite my car being a NV car for 95-98% of its life, the axle was rustier than i care for it to be. i may need to apply POR sooner than later.

 

[Joelzy]

thanks for that info. i may be moving to that area later this year so that is why i asked. its snows where i live, but not enough to warrant salt. we are lucky where i live when it comes to cars with clean bones, but if im moving to an area that has salt i will be tasked to not only take care of my 4runner, but my buddies as well. i will most likely go the POR15 route on both of our cars.

i was under the rear of my car on saturday installing my rear extended brake line and despite my car being a NV car for 95-98% of its life, the axle was rustier than i care for it to be. i may need to apply POR sooner than later.

Same boat, i moved here from texas just over a year ago and my rear axle was solid surface rust before i PORed it. Texas only vehicle before the move but still had some surface crust and this spot inside the frame is the worst i have found so far. better safe than sorry so im going out of my way to seal up what i can and keep the frame clean

 

[Joelzy]

Well, ferk

Had a weird noise pop up last night and as i was pulling over it intensified. Oy

Turns out a spark plug blew out and took the threads with it. It broke the coil pack mount tab and melted the lower half of the coil insulator.
Limped it home and investigated

These were OE replacement Denso plugs, torqued to spec with a new OE Toyota coil packs all done 8kish miles ago. Sooo not real sure what happened

Did some research, already planning to use a timesert to fix it and make sure i dont have to do it twice. Gonna scope it first to make sure the piston is a-ok then the fun begins.


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[weekendclimber]

Well, ferk

Had a weird noise pop up last night and as i was pulling over it intensified. Oy

Turns out a spark plug blew out and took the threads with it. It broke the coil pack mount tab and melted the lower half of the coil insulator.
Limped it home and investigated

These were OE replacement Denso plugs, torqued to spec with a new OE Toyota coil packs all done 8kish miles ago. Sooo not real sure what happened

Did some research, already planning to use a timesert to fix it and make sure i dont have to do it twice. Gonna scope it first to make sure the piston is a-ok then the fun begins.


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Wow! That sucks! I wonder if there's something up with the head? (not to be a Debbie downer and all) I don't want to be all negative and mention what I think could have caused that :-/

 

[Joelzy]

Wow! That sucks! I wonder if there's something up with the head? (not to be a Debbie downer and all) I don't want to be all negative and mention what I think could have caused that :-/

yeah i've seen what most people attribute to this type of failure(undertorquing/overtorquing) and if i hadn't torqued them to spec i'd probably guess it was my fault entirely.
Usually not even one to worry about spec on sparkplugs but i did on this because i was already torquing everything else and figured what the hell?

not sure if its metallurgy, PO abuse that i didnt notice being that it torqued just fine, sparkplug issues, something that happened at the machine shop, etc.

I'm sure its my fault somehow i just dont know how yet lol

 

[brillo_76]

I had an electrode come out of a spark plug once. I bought the rig that way and with a scope. You can see a section of the plug electrode stuck in the surface of piston. This was at 215k . That same engine has 261k on it now and still puts like a kitten at idle.

I haven't seen a pile of toyota heads strip out but mostly it's from abuse in the past like suggested. Over tightening, undertightening. Cross threading as the threads are aluminum it doesn't take much.

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[Adamdmc]

Wow, sorry that this happened to you, just had it happen to me about two months ago. Insert is definitely the way to go, take it from someone that went through all of the trouble to pull the head and swap it just to have to do the insert anyway and reinstall the original head. I spent $350 in parts and about 150 hours of labor that I didn't have to. But, that being said, I'm still better off hav6done all of the things that I did. Whi5in there, I did valve adjustments on both heads, new water pump, timing set, and replaced all of the belts. She's got 265k miles on her and runs like a sewing machine. Good luck and have fun.

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[Adamdmc]

Just remembered, RockAuto has an insert kit that is extremely similar to the timesert for far less money. I did5find it until after the fact or I would have used it.

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[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 96 5SPD(daily) & 5VZ block-up rebuild

I had an electrode come out of a spark plug once. I bought the rig that way and with a scope. You can see a section of the plug electrode stuck in the surface of piston. This was at 215k . That same engine has 261k on it now and still puts like a kitten at idle.



I haven't seen a pile of toyota heads strip out but mostly it's from abuse in the past like suggested. Over tightening, undertightening. Cross threading as the threads are aluminum it doesn't take much.



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Wow, sorry that this happened to you, just had it happen to me about two months ago. Insert is definitely the way to go, take it from someone that went through all of the trouble to pull the head and swap it just to have to do the insert anyway and reinstall the original head. I spent $350 in parts and about 150 hours of labor that I didn't have to. But, that being said, I'm still better off hav6done all of the things that I did. Whi5in there, I did valve adjustments on both heads, new water pump, timing set, and replaced all of the belts. She's got 265k miles on her and runs like a sewing machine. Good luck and have fun.



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Thanks guys, makes me feel a little better somehow and its definitely something i'll be paranoid about in the future. At least its a learning experience and while at first i thought i was doomed to pull the head again, im glad i researched it and found all the people who have timeserted them on the block.



Sorry you ended up pulling yours Adamdmc, hoping i can avoid that as long as the insert goes to plan. everything being as new as it is I really dont want to do it all again just yet.

Just remembered, RockAuto has an insert kit that is extremely similar to the timesert for far less money. I did5find it until after the fact or I would have used it.



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Thanks! I'll check it out

Update: got the scope in and checked the piston. Saw something at one point but realized it was just the 5VZ stamp. Otherwise i think im good to timesert

 

[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 96 5SPD(daily) & 5VZ block-up rebuild

Started work on the time-sert last night, tried to document but being a little nerve-racking of an operation i was just trying to make sure i didnt screw up the head.

the cylinder had a little oil in it from the truck running without a coil pack and shooting oil out of the VC gap at the top of the spark plug tube. Turned the motor over by hand to close the valves(intake at least) then tried some maf cleaner down in there and shot air in to try blowing it all out. Seemed to help a little but i was still thinking that aluminum shavings might not move as freely as on a dry surface :ranger:

This was the wand i bought to get down in there(11 bucks on amazon)

realized quickly that this $30 amazon scope was pretty important and useful.

Here is the kit

Followed the instructions but didnt love that even with this kit the tap and seat cutter are about 2" inside the spark plug tube. the tap can be pulled out ok but this makes pulling the seat cutter out a chore unless you have long, extra-narrow needle-nose pliers.

this pic is with their wrench in place, which is just the right height but cant pull the inner tools out with it.

they dont mention tapping a little and pulling it out to clean but i was pretty careful about it. each time i got back to the spot where it started cutting, i did 12ish quarter turns before pulling it out and cleaning.

Now, this is the most grease i put on any run with the tap and now I know THIS IS WAAAAAY TOO MUCH.

I added more at that point because i was really getting into the step and knew there would be a lot of material coming off. DONT DO THIS.

This is why... sure there aren't any shavings down in there on their own but there are 2 little globs of greasy aluminum sitting on the piston. go easy on the grease.

Scope to the rescue with the little hook attachment i didnt think i needed.

somehow got the entire globs in a single scoop each

scope perspective

actual

I saw one more little piece of aluminum on its own. so i blasted the air back in again and went to scope it only to have the battery die on the scope. when i get off work i'll look again and if that piece is still in there i'll dip the hook in a little grease to get the shaving to stick. after that i just need to install the insert and let the threadlocker dry.

 

[weekendclimber]

That has got to be nerve racking!! Good job!! :cheer2::cheer2::cheer2:

 

[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 96 5SPD(daily) & 5VZ block-up rebuild

That has got to be nerve racking!! Good job!! :cheer2::cheer2::cheer2:

Thanks man, it was not a fun one but luckily its over now and all seems to be good

Updated the last post
The chunks i dug out with the scope

This is the last step, installing the insert with the “install tool” which is designed so you can thread the insert in and once its seated the tool sort of sets the threads then you back the tool out and the insert stays.

Got smort and taped the wrench to the install tool so i could actually start the threads straight and not drop the bit down the tube then insert the tool and find the hole. This wouldnt work on the previous steps as you have to slip the the seat cutter bit over the tap and the tolerances are tight.

And there you have it, insert installed and ready for a new plug.

Checked torque on the other 5 plugs and torqued this fella down
Now to get all this oil out of the bay and let that threadlocker set up

little update: after letting the threadlocker cure(24hours) drove it yesterday to clean up the engine bay at the carwash and had zero issues or werid noises, seems like we're 100% back to normal and I am very thankful to have her back on the road :tea:

also, after some searching i found that not having a low fan speed is a trait for a bad Blower Motor Resistor so i ordered one and got it put in as well. fan works great now

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[Joelzy]

Wife needed to go to the city so i made a run to Tear-a-part who had a couple fresh 3rd gens.
Scored a few things i’ve been trying to find for a while.

Plus a spare MAF

Plugged the window switch panel in and it went up in smoke immediately so that was a bust but i was able to make a little tab for my existing one based off the fried version.
Always worked it just stuck out but fits like factory now

Pulled off the rest of the rear bumper to start work on the hitch/swingout/bumper combo and popped a few dents out because i think im going to try and keep the sides and the section with the plastic lip for now. My dog seems to have trouble jumping in the back without anything on the rear and the lip is nice to have so if i can just build out south that would be nice. We’ll see about the sides still up in the air

Most importantly, she's running perfectly since the sparkplug repair :llama:

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[weekendclimber]

Plugged the window switch panel in and it went up in smoke immediately so that was a bust but i was able to make a little tab for my existing one based off the fried version.
Always worked it just stuck out but fits like factory now

I wonder if it's possible to switch over the electronics with your working electronics to the now defunct junk yard panel?

 

[Joelzy]

I wonder if it's possible to switch over the electronics with your working electronics to the now defunct junk yard panel?

thought about it but the door and window lock buttons are a tad different from my 96 to this 98(?) you can kind of see in the pic. anywho, easy enough to make the little tab once i knew what i needed and i'll get my money back from the yard on it :shrug:

 

[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 96 5SPD(daily) &amp; 5VZ block-up rebuild

Doing a last minute trip to moab next weekend so im trying to get a few things put together beforehand.

Built a quick rear skid bar to try keeping my bumper intact

Nothing special but in the absence of the old hitch it should do for now.

Also working on my onboard air.
Probably wont have it mounted under the vehicle for this trip but im just going to mount it all to a board for the time being and have some jumper cable clamps to run the comp.
if i have time this week i might get it all put together properly but i doubt it’ll happen.

More done today

All working and good to go

Also, being that my wife is pregnant and still agreed to come on this trip, i decided to step up the “oh shit kit” game

Rebooted one of the axles that was on my truck when i got it. Pulled a trailing arm off a pick n pull truck and rockauto had the tierod ends for about 12 bucks together.

Didnt take a pic but was able to shove the spare(mostly deflated but still beaded) back in the factory spot even with the new skid bar and it clears the panhard bar by a 1/4 inch.

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[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 96 5SPD(daily) &amp; 5VZ block-up rebuild

Had a fantastic time in Moab this weekend and found out i can make it from arches to my front door in under 4 hours in the 4Runner at comfortable speeds with heavy rain and all. Sooo that'll be happening more often.

Only edited 2 camera pics so far, pregnant wife was driving in both.

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adding photos here, probably dont need to add them all to this build thread
moab_3/20 | Flickr


We did the Dome Plateau loop(and got lost thanks to crappy signage) and both sections of Fins N Things. First half being my favorite by far.

I packed like i was expecting a break and luckily, the only one was my swaybar quick disconnect. I was relying on my buddy who had been on Dome Plateau to know if i should disconnect and when he told me no, i didnt think twice until the first real flex when it immediately "disconnected" on its own. I know i should've just done it but oh well, easy fix now that im home. After wheeling, i decided i didnt want to try to really fix it out there and waste a bunch of precious Moab time so i just trail fixed it for the drive home. Bailing wired the hell out of it and it held just fine for the 4 hour drive and obviously helped the 4R highway manners.

Also didnt think i would touch the skid bar i built but lo and behold, i caught it coming off a steep ledge and while i scuffed the bumper, the skid bar taking the brunt of the hit definitely saved the bumper so i am ecstatic that i built it.
you can see the scuff on the left

favorite pic so far, taken by my wife
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[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 96 5SPD(daily) &amp; 5VZ block-up rebuild

Well, i had planned on rebuilding the quick disconnect the same way as before, it did, afterall, technically work. The only annoyance was that even with pretty tight tolerances you could still hear it jiggle a little sometimes.

May still go back to that eventually as the pins made it super easy to disconnect but for now i mocked up another idea with stuff i had around.
As long as i can keep the threads clean i think this will be stronger, stiffer and only take a tad longer to disconnect.

When the nut is spun down(red) its disconnected, when up(green) its connected and butting it up to the upper nut really stiffens it and it can be tightened with a wrench if needbe.

First stab at it so it’s a little crude. Added the wings so i could spin the nut down by hand instead of needing a wrench everytime.
Also drilled a hole and added a pin to keep it from spinning downward.

We’ll see how she goes

Also, couple more moab pics for your click

Update: worked on the rear storage a bit today. Being that the wife is pregnant with twins we wont be doing any more camping in the 4runner this year and next time we do, there will be 4 of us so i doubt we’ll be camping in the runner.
Decided to pull the forward hinged part of the platform out completely and make it easy to use the rest for tools and recovery whatnot.

Pulled it out to make the drawer finally.
Not making a drawer for the right side as the recovery tracks are just long enough to fit on their own.

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Mostly wanted to be able to have the spare parts and “oh shit” kit in there without carrying around a big tub of tools and parts. This allows me to have it all with me anytime and out of the way.

 

[phattyduck]

Update: worked on the rear storage a bit today. Being that the wife is pregnant with twins we wont be doing any more camping in the 4runner this year and next time we do, there will be 4 of us so i doubt we’ll be camping in the runner.

Figure out extra help *now* for the twins. Mother, Mother-in-law, day/night nanny, friends, whatever you can swing... Our twins are almost 9 months now, and it was a HUGE challenge for the first few months. We did everything ourselves with the first, but that just isn't possible with two. Is the first(s) for both of you?

-Charlie