Joelzy's 96 5SPD(daily) & 5VZ block-up rebuild

Joelzy's 96 5SPD & 5VZ block-up rebuild

This is a great build, props to you for getting through all that engine stuff at the beginning. Im about to start a second build and there will be some pretty serious engine work involved too, Im excited.

I'm local to you ( Bountiful ), and I'm interested in this "Clean The B" event, but I don't facebook, got any more details?


Thank you! There were a lot of trying times and probably some to come still but its been fun and educational for sure.
If you need help on the rebuild lmk, we’re right up the road obviously.
This is my first gtg with these guys and i learned about it secondhand from one of the UT4R guys. But still planning on going out at least for a little while.

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Details
Many hands make light work!

Join us May 4th at 9:00 AM for the 4th Annual Bountiful B Cleanup.

The Bountiful B is a common recreational area open to the public year-round and is heavily trafficked. Please help clean up so we can keep this area open for continued use!

Please bring:
5 gallon buckets
Work gloves
Good shoes
Small trailers
Truck beds we can fill with trash
Nail magnetic sweepers
Trash grabbers
Your helping hands
Water and snacks for yourself
We have plenty of trash bags

We are in need of a dump trailer. Let us know if anyone is willing to donate one for the day or knows someone that will let us rent it.

Please share in all other recreation groups like Off-Road, camping, shooting, hiking, hunting, etc.

Let’s make the B beautiful again!


(In your best announcer voice)

This event is brought to you by Utah DNR/ Utah State Parks and Recreation OHV Program, Tony Divino Toyota, and by Utah Toyota Off-Road.



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Welp, got a little bonus at work so its time for brakes and front cv axle rebuilds!
Any recos on where to get cv boots?

Also, picked up this annoying little shit the other day so i’ll be trying to figure that out. Thought it was dust shield but now sounds more like wheel bearing area

YouTube


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Welp, got a little bonus at work so its time for brakes and front cv axle rebuilds!
Any recos on where to get cv boots?

Also, picked up this annoying little shit the other day so i’ll be trying to figure that out. Thought it was dust shield but now sounds more like wheel bearing area

YouTube


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Get Porsche 930 boots, they are the high angle ones All-Pro sells and marks up :cheers: (Porsche for inner boots and OE for outer w/ boot slide mod)

930 is the chassis code, 80's (78-86 IIRC) body style 911 EMPI Bates Porsche 930 CV Joint Boot Clamps Directly To CV Joint And Covers Up The CV Joint Bolts - Kartek Off-Road
 
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Joelzy's 96 5SPD & 5VZ block-up rebuild

still tinkering away

a few updates that i dont have pics of:



• tested 4wd and locker again, confirmed, all works except the 4wd indicator light

• hitch installed(will get modified later but wanted to be able to use the bike rack for now)

• hatch trim panel back in(not perfect but i have a spare to trim later)

• ordered TBU, new shoes, wheelers brake lines and CV boots

• picked up a spare and farm jack, spare does not fit underneath the truck with the hitch... yet



^that led to me buying this guy for 30 bucks

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I'll be using the swing out to build a tire carrier and though i havent really started planning it out yet i think it will essentially end up replacing the factory center bumper piece.

Until that happens, i'll use it as a bike rack.



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“Installed” my ultragauge by plugging it in and velcroing it on. I’ll move it somewhere better soon but only had a few minutes and wanted to make sure it was working and all.



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Another update, picked up some cheap tan leather seats from a nissan that should hold me over for a while. Looks like the color is pretty close too!

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Butt Heaters and electric driver side
 
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Joelzy's 96 5SPD & 5VZ block-up rebuild

Welp, wife and i went out to a public offroad park for a clean up effort and ended up on a bit of an adventure for the 4R’s offroad maiden voyage.

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So being new to the area i trusted an optimistic coworker with a ZR2 and blindly followed him down a trail that had been hammered by the weather and i later found out it was considered impassable over a year ago(no one knew this). He downplayed it to a point that i didnt feel the need to air down or disconnect sways but once out there i started wishing i had.

There were some pretty good obstacles exposed and the trail was a bit more technical than people seemed to claim in past years but i was having fun although the wife was white-knuckling. Seemed to be doing fine for a 23 year old truck and 4lo + elocker was making it look easy.

Got to the final stretch before it left the cliffside and found a landslide had taken out about half the trail. I wish i had been taking pics but at that point i was loafin my dickies at the fact that i’d have to reverse back down the way we just crawled up. Something about going backwards over obstacles and inclines makes me pretty uneasy still. My wife(bless her heart) did the best she could spotting me but there were at least 2 times that i was pretty certain i was about to lay the truck on its side due to the angle of the wash out and my terrible reverse entries. Somehow i didn’t and we made it about a half mile or more back to a wide enough break that we could turn around.



Despite a lot of popping, creaking and tire rubbing throughout the drive, we made it out with nothing but than a slightly more broken in clutch and probably the remainder of the cv grease squeezed out of the boots and onto the surrounding parts.

Needless to say, my wife will be researching all trails we attempt thoroughly before hand from now on.



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So after this outing, im realizing that as cool as 35s would be, i dont currently need them and will be sticking to 33s on the 16s once these 17” tires are toast. I had the clearance necessary for the type of offroading ill be doing(while the ZR2 was dragging ass) and if anything i just need to trim bumpers and pinch welds a tad more. Some of those angles i would not have wanted to have any taller of a COG as it was already uneasy.



Also, to stay in line with the “build thread” i started cleaning up the nissan seats and wow they are dirtier than i thought.
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Joelzy's 96 5SPD & 5VZ block-up rebuild

Big things going down this weekend

TBU, new rear shoes, wheelers brake lines, porsche 930 inner boots (thanks [MENTION=118331]norcalassassin[/MENTION]) and stretch mod OE outers and a full brake fluid flush in the process.

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trying to prep beforehand to make it as easy as possible on saturday, So i’m rebuilding my spare axles with fresh grease and boots so i can just install instead of pull then rebuild day of.

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For the stretch mod
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Unfortunately even with snap ring pliers, one shot off and is hiding in my garage somewhere. Hopefully i can pick up another at a parts store but if not i’ll dig in and find it.



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Lookin good man! those boots are the bee's knees. Where did you end up ordering from?

also good call replacing brake lines with the TBU, just getting around to doing it on my rig
 
Lookin good man! those boots are the bee's knees. Where did you end up ordering from?

also good call replacing brake lines with the TBU, just getting around to doing it on my rig

i was lazy and just ordered from the kartek link you sent haha
price wasn't bad and they came quick :banana:

my brake lines are cracked so i figured it was time for a complete overhaul.
 
Looks like the "Clean the B" was a good time. Im kinda bummed I missed it.

Also nice pile of parts! the TBU has been on my list for quite a while, I just gotta find some time, lol.
 
Joelzy's 96 5SPD & 5VZ block-up rebuild

Looks like the "Clean the B" was a good time. Im kinda bummed I missed it.



Also nice pile of parts! the TBU has been on my list for quite a while, I just gotta find some time, lol.



yeah we had a good time and made some progress for sure, that was my first time out there and getting stuck on that south wrap around trail wasn't great but no harm done once we made it out.

Update: got the spare axles rebuilt.

Stretch modded
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The 930 boots are not a direct fit
Didnt read the whole page until now but they suggest doing what i figured was best in the situtation(cutting off the factory boot ends and clamping the 930 boot over them) so im glad i thought that through. probably should have just read it in the first place

EMPI Bates Porsche 930 CV Joint Boot Clamps Directly To CV Joint And Covers Up The CV Joint Bolts - Kartek Off-Road

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Pretty sure thats a 3" Rough Country lift system, i just pulled the same system off my rig



The front was definitely rough country but did you have the same rears? I havent changed anything out back yet but thats probably next in line


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Joelzy's 96 5SPD & 5VZ block-up rebuild

Got everything done today, huge props to [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] for making videos of almost everything. Helped tremendously in prepping and knowing what to expect.

First off i found that jingling noise to be the castle cap over the axle nut. It was loose enough to drive me nuts at low speeds but i bent the cotter pin differently to hold it still.
Before(looseish)
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After
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PO of the spare axles obviously used a hammer and bent up the tip of the axles. Had to get after it with a file but got the threads fixed.
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-

Before

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The new

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The dust shield trim

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New boots on the rebuilt CVs
Extended 930 inners and stretch modded outers
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Shoes are surprisingly new so i just cleaned everything and put it back together

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Things to note:
1. If changing brake lines, friggin buy the flare nut wrench in the first place. I buggered up a couple fittings and had to use vice grips to tighten them all the way.
The top fitting on the rear brake line is a giant pain in the ass. Ended up bending the retainer tab down a tad to get the wrench in easier.

2. Others took the bottom LBJ castle nut off and unseated the BJ to get the CVs in and out. I went for the 4 BJ to knuckle bolts instead and being that i have seen instances of these backing out, i marked them after torquing to make it easier to check, assuming i’ll be able to see the white when dirty.
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3. A $6 hand pump from harbor freight was perfect for refilling the front diff.
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4. I bought the same 1/4” clear fuel hose at autozone as timmy and sean to flush/bleed the brakes and it worked great to see when i got to the new fluid.

Also test fit one of my 16s and it touches the caliper but i only need about 3mm to clear. Could just run a 5mil spacer but may see about grinding that part of the caliper as it looks to me nonfunctional casting.
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Update: brakes work soooooo much better now. Holy crap what a difference. There was a time where a car cut me off a couple months ago, i stood on the brake to keep from hitting them and in my head i was already thinking about the hit because i wasnt slowing down enough. I barely stopped short and that was from about 40 mph, so today while out testing the brakes i did a 40-0 test and was shocked at how quick it gets there now. Not trying to hype this mod but it should’ve been the first thing i did.
 
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Also test fit one of my 16s and it touches the caliper but i only need about 3mm to clear. Could just run a 5mil spacer but may see about grinding that part of the caliper as it looks to me nonfunctional casting.
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That's a strengthening rib that stiffens the caliper - notice it is right behind where the pistons apply force? I'd keep that in place.

If you want 16's that fit, there are plenty of options (Tundra wheels, for example!).

-Charlie
 
That's a strengthening rib that stiffens the caliper - notice it is right behind where the pistons apply force? I'd keep that in place.

If you want 16's that fit, there are plenty of options (Tundra wheels, for example!).

-Charlie

yeah i figured as much or the vein for the outside pistons but still looking into it more, i literally only need the back edge to be the depth of the indention, not even the depth of the "T" stamp, just the indention where it sits.
- Might try some thin spacers but i hate running them without being hub and wheel centric and nothing that thin will be so.
- Might also see about trimming the wheels. Its literally just the bent in edge from the dimple die on the inside of the windows that touches.

Hate to give up on these wheels over a few mils
 
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yeah i figured as much or the vein for the outside pistons but still looking into it more, i literally only need the back edge to be the depth of the indention, not even the depth of the "T" stamp, just the indention where it sits.
- Might try some thin spacers but i hate running them without being hub and wheel centric and nothing that thin will be so.
- Might also see about trimming the wheels. Its literally just the bent in edge from the dimple die on the inside of the windows that touches.

Hate to give up on these wheels over a few mils

I've got some spacers just sitting around in my garage that are like 1" or something. I'd send them to you if you want. I owe [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] a pay-it-forward.

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I've got some spacers just sitting around in my garage that are like 1" or something. I'd send them to you if you want. I owe [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] a pay-it-forward.

man that'd be amazing and if i dont end up using them long-term i'll do the same, thank you!
i'll pm you

bike rack update that didnt need to be a new post:

Just incase anyone wanted to know where i landed. I may still get a platform style eventually but for now i chopped up the swing out for later use and put the yakima rack back together without it. Now it weighs very little and is much easier to take off and on so i dont mind the lack of a swing.

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Been a bit since i tigged so my welds are ugly but strong at least. I tested it by hanging on the bike part and it didnt budge at all. might still reinforce though as im out of practice and having fun
 
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Joelzy's 96 5SPD & 5VZ block-up rebuild

Welp, checked under the truck today and my outer boots are losing some grease. Thought i got the factory style clamps on tight enough but apparently not. They have not unseated its just squeezing out past the clamp. Im used to losing a little but thinking i might run a hose clamp on em to actually be able to tighten them down more. I didnt buy the tool to tighten the factory clamp and can only do so much with pliers.

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The other side lost a good bit more

Update, fixed
Tried to tighten the factory style clamp more pulling with pliers while pinning the clamp down with a flathead, seemed to work pretty well and got it tight but i dont want to have to check it constantly so i just pulled those off and used hose clamps that i know are tight enough. We’ll see if anything gets past these

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Not a ton of clearance from the inner balljoint mount points but enough.

Been a couple days and 60 or so miles with no leaks some im calling that fixed
 
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Next build piece, scrap steel rock sliders

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Need to get some tube for mounts but have enough for the rails. Hopefully i’ll make it to metal super market this week for some more pieces.

Reinforced the bike rack because i wanted to practice tigging. Still ugly

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Also replaced my lower dipstick o-ring for one i had laying around. Hard to get in but should seal up the seep i’ve been seeing.

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Also pulled out the passenger seat to see where im at with these nissan seats. Looks closer than i expected but i think i will need to move the rail feet to the the nissan sliders so i started pulling those apart.

Also got the spacers thanks to [MENTION=116195]weekendclimber[/MENTION] but didnt get a chance to test fit. I know for sure that they'll give more than enough clearance fo the wheels though.


bah! its been raining a lot lately and though my sunroof doesnt work it now seems to be leaking on the passenger front corner. Blew out the drain hose with compressed air and hopefully that will fix it but now i need to let it dry out so i can see if it worked or if the headliner and sunroof will have to come out. lets hope not
 
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