Joelzy's 96 5SPD(daily) & 5VZ block-up rebuild

Joelzy's 96 5SPD(daily) & 5VZ block-up rebuild

Tried to get aligned the other day and while they did their best, i hadnt realized my rack bushings had just about fallen out. Got those swapped out so i can get it realigned under warranty now.

Shout out to [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] for the video making this a piece of cake
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Also had a noise on bumps that was driving me nuts and after banging around a while i realized the spring holding the brake pad outward wasnt doing its job correctly after being bent a little so i got that swapped out and all good now


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we need an official T4R.ORG place to put all the 3d printed stuff

AC 8871824030 CLAMP PIPING

<a href="https://imgur.com/HUGXVzC"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/HUGXVzCl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/bCvMjEP"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/bCvMjEPl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I need to make one more model change and I will release this one to the wild. I printed your 9048015028 CLIP, HOOD SUPPORT ROD one, it was snug but after a little "GET IN THERE!" it was fine.
 
I need to make one more model change and I will release this one to the wild. I printed your 9048015028 CLIP, HOOD SUPPORT ROD one, it was snug but after a little "GET IN THERE!" it was fine.

Nice! Yeah the first one was as loose as the broken one so i beefed up the tabs a tad to be more snug and not break.


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AC 8871824030 CLAMP PIPING

Was looking for that part number thanks! The part number for the hood lock support bracket it clips into is 53217-35020 for anyone wondering.

Nice! Yeah the first one was as loose as the broken one so i beefed up the tabs a tad to be more snug and not break.

One of you guys definitely need to start a 3D parts for sale thread. Cool stuff, especially as more parts become discontinued.
 
Was looking for that part number thanks! The part number for the hood lock support bracket it clips into is 53217-35020 for anyone wondering.



One of you guys definitely need to start a 3D parts for sale thread. Cool stuff, especially as more parts become discontinued.

maybe if i upgrade and can print something hotter than PLA i will. so far its been good but those centercaps melted just enough to loosen up in the heat and TBD if anything else will melt haha.

definitely using some zipties for that AC line currently so this will be awesome


Got the 4runner aligned and all after the steering rack bushings. feels good and drives straight but im out of things to tinker on it for now. We're about 4 weeks from having the twins so my timing on that one couldn't have been better but now the bimmer needs some maintenance so we'll see how long that waits if i cant get it done in the coming weeks. TBD
 
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Was looking for that part number thanks! The part number for the hood lock support bracket it clips into is 53217-35020 for anyone wondering.

maybe if i upgrade and can print something hotter than PLA i will. so far its been good but those centercaps melted just enough to loosen up in the heat and TBD if anything else will melt haha.

TBD

I cooked my entire hot end on my printer trying to do ABS whoops. typical sleepydad move.

I just got all my parts for my hot end.

titanium heat break and a micro Swiss nozzle.

so I'm printing stuff into the 250 deg range now... once I feel good about the PETG I will try ABS again. the PLA just is not tough enough to take the beating it seems. PLA prints like a dream but it melts at way to low a temp. PETG is in between PLA and ABS so it might be the answer. I don't know who am I kidding I'm going to burn my house down.
 
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No real work being done on the 4runner lately, kind of happy with it and its running perfectly so just driving it. The bimmer on the other hand needs a lot of love


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looks like a Powerfull welder ? ..im scrollin your pics tryin to figure out your Cool front Bumper..Homemade ? thanks
 
looks like a Powerfull welder ? ..im scrollin your pics tryin to figure out your Cool front Bumper..Homemade ? thanks


The front bumper is a factory upper half from an early third gen. The skid and cross bar i made out of some stuff i had around and overlays the factory skid for now.


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Awesome work man! You've inspired me to do an OEM engine rebuild on the side and have it ready to go after I put another 100k+ on my current engine (hopefully). How many new miles on the rebuilt motor? Any issues?

I'm currently working on doing a 96-98 bumper swap and was planning on fabricating a custom crash bar like yours. Didn't consider putting in a skid extension, that was a pretty great idea.
 
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Awesome work man! You've inspired me to do an OEM engine rebuild on the side and have it ready to go after I put another 100k+ on my current engine (hopefully). How many new miles on the rebuilt motor? Any issues?

I'm currently working on doing a 96-98 bumper swap and was planning on fabricating a custom crash bar like yours. Didn't consider putting in a skid extension, that was a pretty great idea.


Great to hear it! I have about 10k on it now
Only issues i’ve come across since the rebuild were bad injector seals(should have changed during rebuild) and the sparkplug ejecting itself from the head.

I torqued all plugs to spec but some speculate that particular plug hole may have had some crossthreading or worked itself out enough to rip out and i’ll be checking it regularly now. I dont see that as an ill effect of rebuild at all. Nice thing was that i was able to make it home about 30 miles on 4 cylinders when it happened. Otherwise its been bulletproof

New pics, no new scenery though. New babies turned this into a grocery getter
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And one of the wife’s highlander that i just lifted and got new shoes for

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Joelzy's 96 5SPD(daily) &amp; 5VZ block-up rebuild

Time for V2 on the centercaps. Originals warped after heating the brakes up a decent amount one time. Cant print hotter yet but maxxed out infill density and added tabs for screws to hold these in. TBD if they’ll still warp but with set screws they’ll at least stay in.

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Just stopped in to check on progress. Truck is looking great. Always enjoy seeing your photos too.

Curious, what rear coils are you running? 890's? I need more low.
 
Just stopped in to check on progress. Truck is looking great. Always enjoy seeing your photos too.

Curious, what rear coils are you running? 890's? I need more low.


Thank you sir, Appreciate that
Rear coils are 891s, had some rough country or the like in there and was the right height but way soft. Love the 891s before and with the swingout it seems to ride just right.

Finally got my front sway disconnect finished up. Version 3 works much better and has no play whatsoever. 3d printing a dust cover for the exposed threads and calling it good

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Interested in the removable links. How do they work? I wanna make my own.
Side note try ASA for the printed hubs it’s strong and color stays good in the sun.


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Interested in the removable links. How do they work? I wanna make my own.
Side note try ASA for the printed hubs it’s strong and color stays good in the sun.


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Thanks for the tip, what are the temps for ASA? The little printer i have is only able to run like 205 or 210 tops.

As for the quick disconnect, all the parts aside from the factory link were bought at home depot for a couple bucks.
This quote is from my second set that were the first of this type. Newest are the same concept just refined a bit.

“When the nut is spun down(red) its disconnected, when up(green) its connected and butting it up to the upper nut really stiffens it and it can be tightened with a wrench if needbe.
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”


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ASA needs to be at 220-245
Guess that wouldent work on ur printer.
Your best choice will probably be PETG then. High heat tolerance than PLA.

Awesome! I think I am going to make a version of links for mine


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